Rockfrog

I had one made for the MJ using an 89 hood and one for the XJ using a 2000 ... just the welding is done so far. Waiting for spring to do the finishing work since I have to do it outside. So far I'm only into them about $200 total.

When my TPS was going out it would start and idle at 25-3000 from time to time ... usually several stop/starts would mellow it out as it was getting sticky.

for the thermostat housing I just use Permatex .. either red or black, whatever is handy. I do give some time to cure before mating the parts and then about 30 mins before torquimg and another 30 to an hour before refill. I just find other crap to do during the time, but I usually lump multiple repairs at a time so I'm not wasting time waiting. Haven't leaked yet. Timing cover is another story though.

Heading home from work (500km drive) ... oil light came on about halfway home. Figured since it was the work beater I'd just chance it and giver ... threw something about 3/4 of the way home. Lots of smoke, LOTS of noise. Lucky it happened near my sisters place. Had it towed and went home. Bought another $500 beater next week for the trip back up island.

This isbthebseam I mean. It wasn't welded from the factory ... had seam sealer in it. Started to rust after it seperated. Planning to paint the truck this spring

With the closed system ... pull the CTS ... fill bottle until coolant comes out CTS port. Replace CTS ... continue to fill bottle. Continue to top off bottle over the next few days (as air burps in the system)

Pull the coolant temp sender at the back of it.

Fill the rad, fill the overflow bottle ... bleed the head and the rest will sort itself out over the next week. The recovery bottle draws (molded line on side of the stock bottle) from the bottom amd fills from the top.

Because your coolant expands at temperature. Without the bottle it will just go out to the ground. It could be done but you have to figure out the amount of expansion and under fill accordingly. That's how it was done decades ago. Just have to check coolant regularly. Its just not kosher to dump coolant into the environment. I originally modified a fast orange hand cleaner bottle at first ... sqeezed it in beside the air cleaner box.

I'll snap one tomorrow in the daylight. And other than the top inner seam seperation ... the tailgate isbstraight as new.

You can also just do it with all 5/8" heater hose and a 5/8" hose form.

Retain the stock heater valve, change to the later style heater valve, or eliminate the valve altogether like late model XJ's

Doing an early non-clip D35 will be similar to a D44 ... you need to maintain preload on the bearing. I'm getting around that by just swapping in a ZJ D35 complete.

That's a minor issue to overcome ... I used a 2000 XJ rad in my 88 MJ. The water outlets are all in the same place so just choose which heater hose layout you prefer. I'm using an 89 upper rad hose in my 2000 XJ as well so it's all cross compatible since the hose positons are thw same for the rad as well ... so are the sizes.

That's my XJ in the picture ... sure it's newer ... but the lines on my MJ are newer. If you are that worried about moving them, I would suggest replacing and relocating then during the refresh. Me, I've had enough hard lines pop on the road that I just replace them when the get too bad. Just to give an idea on length there ... that picture has 29.5" shocks diconnected at the top, springs are 4.5" BDS coils with a spacer and the spring just popped in/out without anything more than my hands. I'd say good to 7" worry free. I did straigthen the banjo end a bit as well but you need to take caution doing that. And recheck clearence when the tire is back on.

start using 92 YJ replacement hoses ... yours are too short. Then reroute the hardline ... just because you brake the metal line just means it's weaker than the rubber. like so ...

Done it a few times, buy or rent the tool (ball joint press). It's not that difficult really, just that the joints can get stubborn. Check into the Synergy joints ... they are actually cheaper than Moogs and such (at least up here they are) and stronger as well. The repair is fairly straight forward but time consuming.

Around here even the wrangler get hassles as technically, by our driving laws, the only jeeps able to drive doorless were 1986 and earlier CJs as the doors were an option from the factory. Most cops don't care much but every so often you get a few hardasses ... and we got several on the Island here.

The last time I placed an order with them, I only received a partial delivery. Although I received an invoice for the complete order. Emailed and eventually called them, and then they sent most of the rest of the order. Only upside was five weeks later I received the same second part of the order ... guess they forgot something. Needless to say I haven't ordered from them since.

I'd get pulled over inside of 5 minutes, given a Box 3 Vehicle Inspection notice, and a $196 fine plus cab fare to get home ... kinda put a damper my fun thoughts about doorless MJ's and XJ's. Not a whole lotta understanding types up these parts ... Although I do have plans for half doors on the XJ down the road.

Assuming this is for your 89 you mentioned elsewhere ... I changed mine a few months back ... PO had broken a key off in the driverside door. Picked up a set (omix-ada) and swapped them in in a couple hours. The locks in a 93 have a larger opening in the door and won't work.

The buzzing you refer to is generally associated with a bad battery or connections to it (if it's the same loud rapid rapping sound I'm thinking of). Check the battery cables and ends, clean the connections, and test the battery (how old is it?). A failing battery will cause a number of issues on a fuel injected system. Sounds like either the battery is going, the cable/connextions are gummed, or the alternator is failing (should be putting 13.5-14.5V to the battery when running). Start with the cheap fixes ... clean and test.

My 2000 Cherokee (XJ) rolled off the lot with 16x7 ICONS which were the same wheels used on the early Liberty's (KJ) These were fairly common up here for 00-01

Meh, I don't understand the need to pull the doors at all myself. Half doors maybe ... but if I wanted no doors I'd just by one a them thar wrangler thingmes. My guess is it's just simply less hassle after the fact is all there really is to it. And the prime template is the CJ/YJ/TJ/JK door hinge layout ...

when you try to align the door and drop in two pins as opposed to just popping the door on/off by yourself you'll understand.