hassyfoto

Yup, exactly what I installed on my truck. In black!!!

My 91 has 153,000 original miles on the 4.0 motor.

Ok, I'm a senior citizen and love jeeps. I have three. One is a daily driver. The Comanche is another story. I'm a hot rodder so my truck is tricked for car shows. But add to rarity, there are 10 million Chevy c10 on the show circuit. All lifted, all have a painted frame and to add insult to injury every jeep show I go to, the new jeeps are the popular choice. Folks just walk past the Comanche to look at a new jeep 6 feet in the Air with $20 thousand in bolt on accessories. On the good side, when someone does stop to talk to me about a Comanche it's a very positive conversation with a lot of. I wanted one, I loved the one a had. Wish I had another one. The best part, only once in six yrs of car shows I've only come across one restored Comanche. Those who do stop to look always comment about how great a Comanche is/was

I found out the hard way that the XJ flare kit ( raw plastic) worked on my truck. Of course the rear flares do not work. I did not do my homework on the flare kit to realize the difference even though the advertisement was for a Comanche.

I bought the headlight doors/grille kit. The quality is OK. The parts fit ok, but there is enough space between the three parts that minor adjustments can be completed. The design of the parts kind of hides the imperfections. I had to modify the square hole for the plastic clip on the sides ( side lamp location). I moved the screw clip a few millimeters to one side. As long as you only modify one side of the four sides of the hole for the clip, there has not been a problem. The Comanche got a little bling-bling this summer at a car show. But, this is as close to the grille & headlights photo I have.

Another possibility is the seals for the heater box/duct work. Everything from the cowl vent down can dry rot and cause a leak.

Pretty much stock Comanche. 160 thousand on drive-train and suspension. mods: custom painted graphics ( Scallops) 2003-06 Wrangler wheels Instrument cluster (dummy lights) replaced with Jeep gauges Bench seat removed and replaced with bucket seats & console. The Honda CT-70 stays in the bed of the truck at car shows. ( It's my off-road vehicle!!!!) Nope, this truck has "never" seen off-road adventures.

Primer: The high end PPG stuff Bodyfiller: Evercoat Paint: PPG's Shop Line Clear: PPG's Shop Line How my truck was painted: The truck was edged first. All the jambs, fender, hood, tailgate, inside bed edges, wheel well edges, fender well edges and grille edges were painted first. The truck was assembled and painted as a single unit. Now to correct for overspray, the truck had a third coat of clear added during the paint process with the specific intentions to water sand and buff the entire truck. This allowed me to water sand between the cab & bed, and all those transition areas between the edges & exterior of the vehicle.

The resister wire, made into the harness was the problem on my MJ. I had the exact same issues. I replaced the dizzy, and just about everything else on the ignition system before I found the problem. I had to cut out the resister wire (about 3 feet long) and replace with standard wire. I added a in-line resister fuse ( from local auto parts store- its about 6 inches long). I have not had an issue since. You can tell the resister wire when you unwrap the harness running next to the block. It's a softer rubber type of wire sheathing as compared to normal more rigid sheathing normally found on most wire harness components on the vehicle

I used XJ seats in my MJ. They work great, they just don't fold forward. I just get behind the seats from the other side of the truck. It's a minor pain, but not that bad to gain access behind the seat(s). But how often do I really need to get behind the seats?

The resister wire on my 91 went bad and caused all kinds of havoc. The truck would intermittently fail to start when hot. Replaced almost everything in the ignition system before I caught the fact that the resister wire running along the side of the engine block was the problem. I added a $5 part from Auto Zone and 3 feet of standard wire to replace the resister wire on the truck. No problems since.

Nice ride!!!!!!! Look forward to your updates on the rebuilding.

I was equally surprised to win best truck, jeep/4wheel vehicle at a Mopar show. I thought for sure the Dodge Viper truck was going to win first place ( nice truck)

Got Yah! I was looking for ComancheKid 25. Yeeks!!! Finally found you!!

I had a similar problem.The issue was different bulbs made by different manufacturers. When I replaced all the turn signal bulbs made from the same company, the problem was resolved. I had some sylvania and some Chinese made bulbs. So replacement with the same company made bulbs made all the difference !

Did you find your topper. I have one, that is raised. Flat across most of the top and drops down before the truck cab. Has the enlarged rear door. Not perfect, but it is good shape. I paid $85.00 for it a few years ago and took it off last year. I will sell it for what I paid for it. I will not ship (obviously because of size). I am located about 260 miles from you. (My first house was in Grafton, WV)( You can barely see it in my picture with my name)

Lookin Good!

Looking for the clips that hold the aluminum weather/rain guards. I I have the aftermarket aluminum rain guards but without the clips they fall rather quickly from the door. hassyformat@aol.com

I spent 2 months replacing bulbs in my rig with the right side blinker not working correctly. The final solution, I replaced all the bulbs ( left & ride sides) with the same company bulbs. It seems the replacement bulbs I bought at the parts store were of a different company. ( I will assume the load ( impedance) is slightly different & caused me all kinds of problems. When all the bulbs were from the same manufacturer, the problem was eliminated. Of course, I had already cleaned all the bulbs sockets, cut of the end of the ground wire and installed a new end, cleaned the metal and reinstalled the ground, replaced the fuses and added a second ground wire on the driver side. Just another minor problem and repair that took me around the barn the fix! :doh:

Beyond what has already been stated, cutting out the rusted metal, cleaning around the weld areas to be, prep the replacement floor panel ( i used the cheap ones available on the internet- good starting point, but they had to be modified slightly) the biggest issue is the cross-brace and the floor brace above the floor pan. I removed the entire floor brace ( or what was left of it on my rig). Before I cut anything out, I cleaned as much rust and loose debris out of the rig and made a paper template of the brace. The template was marked were the bends and tabs would be located. I had to add some additional metal to the aftermarket floor pan as the rust on my rig extended beyond the size of the patch panel. My steps: removed interior & cleaned all loose debris Measured and made a template for the floor brace(s) Scraped and cleaned all undercoat & paint off the top & underside of the vehicle beyond the projected area of welding Cut out the rusted metal Trail fit and cut all metal to install the patches Test fit all metal replacement panels again I used weld-thru primer - ( I used the 3/8 inch over-lap method- crimp when applicable) Welded floor panel patches in place Used the template and created the floor brace, cut out shape, bend the metal to form a replacement part using a 5 inch vice and two pieces of 36 inch angle iron- the angle iron acted as an extension of the vice. Used a few vise-grips to help hold the ends of the angle iron tightly together. Drilled holes in the flange area of the replacement patch for plug-welding. Cleaned up all the welds on the floor patch Applied weld-thru primer Trail fit and adjusted the floor brace- splice part of the old brace with the newly made section Welded in braces ( part of the original brace was used to make it easier for reinstall and to align everything back as much as possible to original.) Spliced in the new floor brace I did a complete perimeter weld on the floor panel. I used plug-welds on the braces to replicate the factory plug-welds Cleaned up the welds on floor & underside of the vehicle ( I had to install rocker panels as well, so there is some overlap work as well) Cleaned and sanded the floors, prep work for primer Applied epoxy sealer to floor & underside of rig Applied seam sealer to both floor side and underside of vehicle as well. Allowed the epoxy sealer to cure for a few days, sanded and applied a second coat over 1st coat of primer and seam sealer Followed up the epoxy sealer with paint ( PPG epoxy sealer can be used as an adhesion coat and that's what I did) Let the paint cure a few days until the weekend Reinstall interior. Applied rubberized undercoat on the underside of the vehicle Drive!

Lookin Good!

Let me say, that I grew up in a family run body shop and have worked on cars all my life. With that said, there are basically 3 manufactures of aftermarket (A/M) parts. The issues in the collision repair industry is in which part you obtain. The platinum series A/M parts (such as from Keystone (LKQ 250)), which carry a higher price tag but have a much better fit & quality then say the 3rd A/M manufacturer, which has a lower price and the quality, fit and corrosion resistance is much lower. Going beyond all the politics of the auto collision repair industry on why A/M parts should or should not be used, the older the vehicle gets, the more you may be forced to use A/M. There are very good A/M parts available and a little research on which companies are in your local area & the quality of the parts from other users will give you a solid answer. I just pulled a A/M fender off my Comanche that fit terrible ( it was on the truck when I bought it- the front edge did not match up to the header panel and the top rear did not match up to the windshield post- the gaps were horrendous). I ordered a platinum series new A/M fender that fits like a glove.

I just recently ( August 2016) used two cherokee fenders to repair the rust on the bedside of my truck. You must split the patch, cut from the fender in two, length wise, and add a 3/4 inch strip of metal in between your split in two-part patch from the fender. On my truck, I repaired & patched the inner wheel well first (cut out the rust, apply weld-thru primer to both the wheel well and the patch were both pieces overlapped. After all welding was completed, I wire brush both sides, apply Eastwood rust inhibitor, allowed to dry over night, applied primer & paint. I cut the fender to size and trail fit the fender patch until it was the size I needed. This included cutting the patch length wise and separating to match up all contours. In the photo you can see the black rust inhibitor on the inner fender well and you can see how the fender patch was cut length wise. I had to make a flat 3/4 wide metal patch to fill in the gap. [/uR L]

As everyone has already stated, typical rust, as rust goes the floor is one of the easiest areas to repair. Inner and Outer rocker panels are a little more involved, while frame/uni-body rails are much harder & sometimes not really repairable except by a professional ( multiple layers of metal and specialized welding ). The nice thing about repairing a floor, it is not seen and only needs to be structurally sound and not cosmetically pretty! Use can buy floor pans to start and add metal to the transmission hump, where the floor pans stop or create your own patch panels from scratch, either way will work.

Merry X-mas