hassyfoto

Not to be funny, is it water or anti-freeze? Did this happen while it was raining or you were washing the truck? Are the heater hoses connected correctly and tight. Possible hose issues (split in hose, hose clamp not tight, etc..)

My 91 Steering wheel is smooth.

Chris71 has already posted the same website that I used. I looked at several possible cap shells, but as already stated the height was an issue. I kept looking on Craigslist and finally after 15 months one showed up. Drove 50 miles and bought it. You may need top be patient, but they keep showing up if you look long enough and try several craigslist locations around your home

I have a grey bench seat complete. No tears, everything is in good working condition. I converted my truck to buckets seats and console and no longer need the seat. I had the seat listed on Craigslist a few months ago for $75.00. A reasonable offer would be accepted. Westminster, MD

Looks good! It took me 2 years to find a hitch. But at least I know a replacement is now available.

If you have removed seat covers before, it's not to difficult but it is time consuming. You will need hog ring pliers and hog rings for re-installation. You also need side cutters, pliers ( needle-nose) super thin plastic sheeting and patience. I removed my seat cover in about two hours. After removing the seat from the truck. Take your time, cut off the hog rings. Slowly pull the cover off and taking the time to find the .hidden hog rings and working around the stiffening rods. Remove any stiffening rods. Throw the seat cover in the washing machine a few times on the gentle cycle. I used some spot remover spray on the real heavily soiled areas. Ran the seats through the was 2x and they looked great. Re-installation, you reverse your process. One trick is to apply a super thing layer of plastic over the seat cushion to make the seat cover slip easier back onto the cushion. You will do a lot of pulling and togging to get the cover back into position. Make sure the stiffening rods go back into place, install the seat cover and hog rings were applicable. Of course this was a short explanation, but the process is not real hard, but you need to know to look for the retainers ( hog rings) so you don't tear the seat.

I will check the sockets & the 4-way this weekend.

91 Comanche Ok, the problem is the right turn lamp blinks very slow during the day and when the running lights are turned on the right blinker almost does not work at all. It may blink once every 40-45 seconds. This is what I have preformed; Checked the grounds on the rear of the truck, under the hood and under the dash. Cleaned the metal and cleaned the grounds. Replaced the bulbs several times. I made sure both sides has the same bulbs made from the same company Checked to make sure there is power to the right lamp & there is! Replaced the fuses, several times just to make sure. Checked the wire harness under the bed for cuts, loose connections, etc... I did not see anything that appeared damaged, worn or rusted Since some of the obvious problems are already addressed, what are some other possibilities. Could this be a turn signal harness issue inside the steering column? Looking for answers from someone that has had a similar issue. thanks

At this point, it appears the adhesion of this covering has failed and rust has formed on the metal floor panel under this coating. I would remove the coating as it is acting like a moisture trap and allowing the floor pan to accelerate the rust process. Clean the floor ( wire brush, etc.), treat the floor with some type of rust inhibitor and refinish.

Welcome to the club, I am kinda the same as you. I spend most of my time reading this forum vs. responding. Good luck with cleaning up the project!

Towing a Deuce & Half !!!! :yes: :yes: :yes:

The Military is not for everyone. Support is just as important! Former: USAF Aeromedical Specialist

Using the same write-up I completed this operation a few months ago and the 4W drive works great!!

The floor pan is the same as a XJ. The braces above the floor pan are the difference. I installed a rock auto floor pan this past summer. Nice heavy gauge metal and close to the correct contour. I had to make part of the brace as it was rusted away. So, removal of the brace is required because the floor is sandwiched between the sub-frame and the brace.

I'm partial to the Rubicon. Otherwise the Pacers remind of Ford wheels.

Amen!!! To all those Americans that lost their lives on 11 Sep 2014, We Salute you and your families

Thanks for the support! I am definitely a big fan of this site!!

Historic plates on my MJ. Only needs to be 20 y/o in MD to get them.

I just wanted to let everyone that has posted on this forum a big thanks!! I realize this is slightly out of place on the MJ tech, since I acquired the information from here, I thought a thank you here would be well placed. I converted a dummy gauge, column shift, bench seat MJ to a gauge cluster, floor shift, bucket seats with console, clock and under dash lights MJ. The info posted on this forum was of extreme value and helped to complete the job quickly and effectively. Thanks to everyone's who has posted such valuable information. Kirby

Although I am a lurker on this website, I just had to express my luck after a 18 month search for a trailer hitch. Oh I have seen plenty of Cherokee hitches but to get a MJ with a trailer hitch is something else. I had to sit in six inches of water (MJ at pick-your-own junkyard) had placed the MJ at the end of the row in a mud hole. So, I figured out how to pile rear seats out of other cars into the water hole and work under the truck until I removed the trailer hitch. Well, it is now on my MJ. Almost no rust and I got everything, bolts, spacers, hitch and receiver for a whopping $21.00 and 3 hours of work. SCORE!! Now does anybody have a quick solution to hook up a 4 plug tow harness? Thanks

Very Interesting!!!!!!

Any dark beer and any Deer that runs in front of my scope sites.

Had a V-8 Engine professionally rebuilt, during the break-in period driving the car very gently, slowed down by down-shifting and the engine blew #1 rod through the side of the block. It seems there was a a microscopic crack in the rod were the wrist pin is located. So of course no one took responsibility, not the machine shop, they didn't inspect the rods, the engine shop that assembled the engine did not take responsibility because the rods were stock factory unit and of course the vehicle was out of factory warranty. Drove my S-10 pick-up to another state, ( around 600 mile round-trip), I returned home and while pulling into the driveway, the truck quite running. Acted like it was out of gas. Hmmmm. Took my 2 days to find the problem. I was too busy looking at everything under the hood, filter, lines, etc. I decided to check on the fuel pump, which is in the gas tank. Hmmm could smell raw gas. ( side note: on a 94 S-10, you need to remove the bed in order to remove the gas tank or sending unit) Removed the bed,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, The entire top of the gas tank was peppered with rust holes. One of the several steel tubes that come out of the top of the fuel sending unit had rusted away and broke. Upon checking, it seems this was a major issue with many Chebby trucks, especially the S-10. I junked the truck, the cost for a sending unit $900.00, No aftermarket or salvage yard parts available ( because it was a common problem and everyone was grabbing up salvage parts) & $150 for a gas tank and another few hundred dollars, not including labor for steel fuel lines, filter, etc... The truck only had 140,000 miles but the cost to repair was more than the truck was worth.

I buy frequently buy from Rockauto. Yes the shipping can be high, especially if the parts are coming from separate warehouses or vendors. Why??? Because the quality level of local auto store parts has gone down and the availability of certain brands ( MOOG, DELCO, etc...) is NOT available locally, BUT is available from Rockauto. I do not have Reilly's in my area, but AutoZone, Advance Auto and NAPA are everywhere. Having used what is called "Professional Auto Parts" from several vendors in my area for the last 40 yrs to perform professional work in a shop, I have watched the quality of parts go down dramatically. Everything is made overseas and cheaply made. Hence, more failed parts. I prefer to stick with brands that last longer or perform better than the inferior quality parts. Soooooo, i buy from the vendor that carries the brands that I prefer. Just my 2 cents worth!

I have only seen one other MJ and just recently he must of gotten a job at Home Depot as I saw it sitting there two days in a row. Other than that, I have not seen a MJ on the road in years in my neck of the woods.