87Warrior

You know, the Wrangler is the one I don't really care if it gets a diesel or not. The Grand and a truck should have a torque monster, the Liberty should have something like the KJ CRD and the Patriot needs a small turbo diesel that nets 40-50mpg.

Wow, I am quite shocked. I have always been under the impression that Hanson was a top notch company with top notch products. I still have no doubt about the latter. They have been in the Jeep parts business for a while and should know that a product for a niche of the niche (Comanche being the niche of Jeep) would be under a watchful eye. Why they wouldn't just say "it will be two months" instead of a series of 1 week or 2 week ordeals. Unfortunately I think your only other option for a bumper will be a custom built unit.

:typing: Done. Gosh, if a Diesel Grand shows up within the next 2 years my wife and I would forgo the Duramax Silverado we are eyeing. But I do have one complaint. That artical says a diesel would last longer. Longer than what? Our 4.0 is known to last 300K with good maintenance. Just curious to how long a commuter diesel would run in comparison to the 4.0.

If you take I70 through KC, to or from Joplin, let me know! We are in KC. The feeling I got while helping clean up and sift through what was left of a Jeepers home in Joplin cannot be explained. This is the neighborhood:

X2 :agree: GREAT driving. That was awesome. Though a 1989 pickup valued at over $125K probably doesn't share much with the truck we love beside the block and cab.

TRUCK!!!! Comanche is a TRUCK :D To answer your question: because I haven't been able to drive my real truck in a LONG time. And thank you ;) I have a new body sitting wrapped up in the garage. I am going to spend my time getting that one to look perfect. Not sure what color to go with. I am thinking Silver.

I'll be..... I saw your truck loaded up today sporting the banner and all. I work in the Belton area. Then I saw it on the news this evening. I know that the vet :USAflag: who receives your gift will be forever grateful.

Looks like mine did... Before - Image Not Found After - Image Not Found Image Not Found

That's a pretty good deal. Plus they have quit making the MJ body again. Reminds me, I need to clean my crawler. Found a little mud/a pond last time I took it out.

Why not go for it? On their web site they ran it over several times with an XJ. Looks like it popped back with no holes at the seams. Worst case scenario you are out the cash and a fender (if the ARB hole is in a different location).

In that case, pull/trace the passenger side kick panel for fuse box location and antenna hole. Don't forget the door strikers, weather strip, seat belts, overhead lighting and 4wd linkage. Exhaust past the cat should be saved too especially since it is an 00. Take tons of pictures and lable everything as to what it is and where it goes. You WILL be pulling your hair out when it goes together.

What is the point of pulling the parts? Are you wanting to scrap the shell? I would pull what ever can come out. Consider cutting out floor pans and rockers for patch metal for the MJ.

I pulled the donor 4.0L a few weeks ago and have been doing a lot of research getting a build sheet assembled for my 4.0L. Starting discussions with the machine shop. Objective:This motor will be based upon a 99 XJ block and will be going into my Comanche, which will be a daily driver turning 4.10's and a 30/31" tire. Goal:I want to pull more power out of the motor yet maintain fantastic drive-ability and reliability without the need for premium fuel. The motor will be getting a thorough going through and rebuilt. I am thinking work along the lines of bearings and seals/gaskets, cam, pistons, porting, etc. I will build a higher power 4.0 and drive it for another 200K miles. The 4.0L I rebuilt in '03 (stock, 0.030 over) is nearing the 100K mile mark in my Rubi. This is my current plan: - Stock 4.0L Crank and Rods - Comp Cam 68-321-4 Camshaft - Sealed Power Pistons 0.030" over - Block decked 0.00" - 0.051" Compressed Head Gasket Compression Ratio: 8.95:1 Dynamic Compression Ratio: 7.77:1 Quench: 0.051" Head Head Gasket: Fel-Pro 0.051" Camshaft: COMP Cam 68-231-4 Lifters: 822-12 Valve Springs: Mopar High Performance P5249464 - Retainers: Mopar High Performance P4452032 - Locks: Mopar High Performance P4529218 Ford 19lb or SRT4 Injectors Banks Header

Hey Buck, I just wanted to say your truck is beautiful. Just wondering, where did you buy the truck at in KC back in 89?

You know what I am talking about. When working on the Jeep I always seem to make great progress until the job is near completion. Then everything starts to go wrong and takes 5x longer to complete the job. This weekend I had ambitious goals for the front of my TJ: 1. Remove steering, brakes, knuckles and axle shafts 2. Remove ball joints and install new 3. Install tube seals and new Axle Shafts 4. Install Vanco Brake kit/knuckles 5. Install U turn steering system It came apart slowly, yet easily, even pressing out the ball joints. Heck, even installing the new ball joints was uneventful just a slow and tedious job. At this point I figured the rest of the work would be cake. After all, it just involves installing parts and the ball joints were supposedly the 'hard' part of the weekend. I clean the axle tubes out and push on the seals. I notice one of the zerks look cracked and sure enough it was. Luckily the axle going into the MJ has the same seals so I stole a good zerk and installed it. While I am dealing with Zerks I figure I should install them in the new ball joints. Straight forward and simple, right? 1, 2,3 go in... The the passenger side lower, #4, decides to play hard ball. Get it nearly in and SNAP. The head of the zerk breaks off leaving the threads in the joint. 6 hours later the threads come out. It looks like the wrong zerk was sent with that ball joint and was too long allowing it to bottom out. Tired of looking at the pasenger side I decide to start on the driver side brakes. Knuckle goes on, shaft goes in, unit bearing is ground down, rotor/caliper bracket/ caliper goes on, then I go to attach the brake line. Won't fit, the end of the Jeep line is a bit different than the Ford caliper. Massage the end and get it to fit. Torque the Uturn driver side bracket and go to attach the rod end at the Pitman arm. The castle but will not go on the rod end. I got the setup used and when it was removed, they must have smashed the threads on top of the rod end. After declaring it trash I go online to order another. Realize it is the same rod end on my V8 ZJ steering and stick it on. By this time the weekend was over and had to leave my rig on jackstands. Anybody else have a similar weekend in the sweltering heat?

Whaaaa? Please elaborate. :huh???: Knock Sensor. Obviously OBDi will work just fine with a stroker. From my research, the Renix system is more forgiving to the shade tree mechanic.

You have to torque those belts tight....REAL TIGHT. Sounds like you have some wires crossed inside. The rescue green looks great!

Stroker or rebuild, the cost will be about the same. The stroker just takes a bit more research. The Renix system responds much better to a stroker motor vs. OBDI. $2500 for parts and labor sounds about right for a long block rebuild. If you have the machine shop do a short block and you install the cam/lifters/etc you might be able to save some money, but you really need a dry shop. If $2,500 is too much to swallow for a rebuild, it sounds like you need to find a used motor and stick it in. Machine work is expensive. The valvetrain components can add up real fast too.

:wavey: Welcome! Spend some time searching the site about the 4wd swap. Several guys have done it here with little to no trouble. The swap basically entails removing parts from a 4wd XJ and installing them in the MJ (Front axle, drive shaft, transmission, transfercase, and 4wd lever linkage that attaches to the tunnel)

Someone wanted to build a bridge for effect, you can just walk around very easily. Isn't that the home/cabin dedicated to Thoreau? Very nice pictures. Looks a lot different with a lot of snow on the ground. What is the location of the structure with the old fridge?

I have had good results using the quick disconnect collar tools. Fuel, transmission, and AC lines all use them.

First and only since 2009. Seems I am newer to the MJ game than most.

Picture of the truck: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

:waving: Welcome! I've been to Hutch a time or two... Yet never for the state fair.

:clapping: Truck looks awesome. New truck looks sweet.