87Warrior

I can't get over how GOOD it looks in rescue green and black :yes: I am also insanely jealous of your rear bumper. Hope the best for you and your employment status!

:rotf: I think my sis has one of them new breeds.

You can get that hiem joint from just about anywhere. It is a standard sized rod end. I ordered my replacement (not an RE part) from David at northridge4x4. Search online to find the proper sizing for the rod end.

If you do use POR make sure you understand the 3 step process or other application methods. I media blasted the frame and applied POR directly to the blasted surface. Since I couldn't blast the inside of the frame, I treated it with Marine Clean and Metal ready before spraying the POR.

From ROF: That said the HP30 is probably the better choice because it is cheaper and high pinion. Though, if a good deal comes along on a TJ rubi 44 I would jump on it. 4.10s and an air locker would cost a lot to upgrade a 30 (assuming it does not have 4.10s).

Front Rubi 44 is a bolt in unit. I have one ready to go in my truck. The only thing I am not 100% sure of is the front Ujoint, if it needs a 1330/1310 joint or not. Maybe I will resolve that question this weekend, I just haven't done the research yet.

The shims usually come with new pads.

Rob, you hit the nail on the head :cheers: :agree: :clapping:

Or a heat gun.

Officer needs to loose his badge. "Pull out my Glock 40, take two steps back, put 10 bullets in you and drop you"..yeah, that officer has NO BUSINESS 'protecting and serving' any community. He is a hot headed meat head.

Looks like a good base! Makes me chuckle when I see long arms and the stock control arm mounts still attached :wall: :rotf:

I fear that the 31's will not be livable making the trek from the Front Range to Breck. Our '93 XJ with AW4 and 3.55's with 30" tires looses a lot of steam when heading up to the tunnel, struggling to hold 55-60mph without rev'ing to 4K RPM. When I lived in Vail that poor XJ got used hard making it up and over the highway passes and it really isn't far from stock. You will probably be very unsatisfied with your truck trying to turn the 31's with 3.07s. I personally believe 4.10s and 31's are the best match, but others prefer the gearing to be a bit higher such as 3.55 or 3.73. Add worn out TRE's to you possible DW cause list.

:agree: But, I think he could get a good start on lifting it before not getting to drive it it for a year. Not to mention 6" is really approaching long arm territory. I figure get good springs, shocks, brake lines and trackbar in there and the control arms (or long arms...) could come after boot camp without needing to replace/remove preciously purchased parts. Unless he went with something like a 3 link up front.

Most all suspension manufactures sell components individually. Any retailer should be able to get what you want. I would recomend searching for used parts in forum classifieds and on craigslist. Most of the time a high quality used part is cheaper than a new 'cheap' part. If buying new individual components I usually shop at www.northridge4x4.com Dave has always done me right. Most of the stuff on his site is listed for a TJ. But remember a lot of TJ/ZJ/MJ/XJ parts are the same. Just research it.

:USAflag: If you are wanting cheap, why not do SOA and some used 4" coils and spacers up front. Grab shocks and brake lines. Notch the LCA mount and pick up a trackbar. Total cost could be well under 600 and you wouldn't have to replace everything when you get back to the truck.

Did your pads or caliper come with shims? Sure seems like you could benefit using them if they were included. Your knuckle could also be worn down where the pads ride, one of the inherent design flaws with factory Jeep brakes. Don mentions this in #3. Unfortunately, Jeep D30 axles don't have a dedicated caliper bracket, but utilize the knuckle to hold the caliper and pads in place. The shims might help you out here.

You need the following from a V8 ZJ: Tie Rod Moog DS1312 Adjusting Sleeve Moog ES2079S Tie Rod End Moog ES3096L Did this to my TJ and will be doing it to my MJ :thumbsup:

I was never debating your wheeling tire choice nor its size. I have always figured the purpose of a street set of tires, in addition to saving the wheeler tires, was to reduce load on the drivetrain and improve daily driveabiliy. This is provided the truck is your daily driver. I always like to get the biggest bang for my buck when doing a mod, which a smaller street tire would provide, less the aesthetic difference. None the less I would still use the Ecco or Grizzly wheels which ever direction you go. I've never been a big fan of Jeep's steel wheel selection.

I am not following you. You want a wider set of 32s just to drive on the street? If you go the street tire route, why not get a shorter, narrow, STREET tire? Maybe I am just confused. I would personally only use one set of tires on the Ecco or Grizzly wheels.

Top coat it ;) I applied the Chassis Coat on top of the POR15. It is UV stable. I don't see why you couldn't apply any sort of under coating or other black paint over the POR15. It takes a long time to scuff the POR15 so it can be top coated. Those foamy sanding blocks and thin foam sand pads will save your hands and arms.

POR15. Buy lots of latex gloves and foam paint brushes. Click the link to my build in my sig then go to the POR15 page. The method I used was borrowed from my body shop guy.

Sounds like injector heat soak to me. I know this is for newer rigs, but take a look at it: TSB: 18-031-0 http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wj_1803103.pdf My TJ suffers from this and I have yet to install insulation around the injector #3. Others who have reported the issue and utilized the Mopar fix have had success. Seems like the engine heat causes a vapor lock at injector #3 (though I suspect all injectors could be affected), thus not creating a smooth burn in the cylinder making it feel like a miss. Once fuel flows through, the vapor is gone and there is no more miss fire.

Must be a Renix thing or something. My 03 TJ fires right up, almost immediately after touching the key. My '92 MJ would crank for about 1/2 a second before firing up.

Engine :wrench: Having done both types of swaps, I would always pick pulling/replacing a motor over a tranny. I prefer to look down on what I am working on, not up at a chunk of metal over my head. Plus you get less dirt and crud in your eyes.

Having pulled springs and control arms from my TJ more times than I can count and doing the same to the MJ for sand blasting, I see no reason why anybody would ever need to use a spring compressor on a Jeep. For simple control arm replacement, I have always done the lowers first followed by the uppers with the rig sitting on the ground. This allows you to use a floor jack to dial in the pinion angle and/or to get the arm holes to line up. For spring replacement or spacer install, just disconnect the shocks, brake lines and trackbar. Lift the front of the Jeep until the springs unseat. Pull the springs out and install new. If the LCAs are contacting the mount, this preventing the springs to be installed you must fix this by grinding the mounts or getting arms that are designed for your lift.