87Warrior

Can you explain/post pictures of what you did? I am intrigued more than anything. It sounds like you modified the stock MJ pin. I swapped 97+ doors to my truck and used the 97+ striker pin.

If you are asking about the weight because you want to remove it, you will need a minimum of 2 sturdy people to lift/move it, 3 is ideal, but 4 would make it too easy.

Pete and crew have done good moderating/running the joint. But the folks who come here make the 'club. Without CC I would probably still be driving a relatively stock truck instead of trying to do a 97+ conversion not getting to drive my truck... wait, what...

Hey Paul, I reply to you when I feel I have something to contribute. I've got a D35 with 3.55's you could have to get your truck rolling, but I am 1/2 way across the country. Oh, and I think that hair thread is weird. I checked on it once and had no desire to return to it. :chillin:

Bumpstops limit the amount of up travel in your suspension. When we lift our trucks we can fit taller tires under it because the axle is further from the chassis. But what happens when the suspension is compressed and the axle pushed up as far as it could when stock with those tall tires? You eat fenders and often times damage the tire when it rubs seams along the wheel well. Front bump stops resemble hockey pucks (some actually use pucks) placed on the lower spring mount of the axle. I would recommend bumpstops for anyting bigger than a 30" tire. Swaybar disconnects for just that, they remove the swaybar from the suspension when off road. The swaybar is designed to keep the axle parallel to the body, good on road but will greatly reduce articulation (flex) off road. I have also found they make the ride smoother on slow, rough, roads.

No need for drop brackets. Don't forget shocks and bumpstops! With that setup you will probably have a stiffer ride but it should drive straight if your stock control arm bushings are good shape. What is the purpose of the lift? What will you be using the truck for? If you plan on wheeling it at all, be sure to get some swaybar disconnects.

I'll pull 'em off a cowl when I go to work on the donor this weekend. Congrats to Melissa!

This post is in reference to my work truck, a 2010 Ford Ranger. This cramped, under powered vehicle is driving me crazy. Maybe not the truck per say, but the Fleet management company and Firestone. Before I started working with my present employer I had never used any of those quick lube places for any vehicle maintenance. I do everything myself. I found a Firestone service center near my home that us full of respectful and helpful employees. I have been there several times to get my company trucks oil changed. Went in two days ago to get the 30K mile service done, per the fleet management company's schedule. Oil, fluids, tire rotation, air filter and fuel filter. I am asked to come back when I go in on day 1 because there is a clip tool they need for the fuel filter and need to get one. Go in and sit for 1.5 hrs while they do work. The workers comes and asks if I can come back tomorrow because they need to get a clip tool for the fuel filter. I am to go back in today when the head mechanic is there to get the fuel filter changed. Seriously, how complicated could a fuel filter be Ford? I don't know what year 'clips' are but how hard could it be? It is an inline filter. These people are making it sound like droppin a Jeep fuel tank and changing out the pump/filter would be easier. And Ford, what's up with replacing a fuel filter every 30K miles? Is this normal? Sorry for the rant, this whole process just seems silly.

Dang, looks like I won't be making it up north. Just happens to be the weekend before I take a week off work to go to CO. Couple that with the days I took off to go down to Joplin, my boss would flip for sure!

You know, I've got an extra set you could have Trevor. But its probably just easier to buy them new and get them shipped to you.

I didn't want to be the one who posts this... But here goes... viewtopic.php?f=3&t=30511

Its worth whatever somebody is willing to pay. I drove 7 hours to AR to pick up a rust free bed with flairs, tailgate, wiring, one tail light and two rust free cab corners for $350. Was it a long miserable day? You betcha, but I got some nice parts!

I don't think there is a 'perfect' kit out there. Personally, I would piece together a kit with as many used parts as possible. As you see, there is a wide variety of lift options out there that may or may not work for somebody. It really boils down to what you plan on using the truck for. I would suggest researching lift kits and their components until that is all you can think. Also crawl around your rig to get an idea of what all of the parts are/do. I know the newer TJ and our MJ's have slight differences with control arm mounting, but I know I would have never been happy with the placement of the front axle using the factory control arms on my TJ. Getting the axle centered in the wheel well, pinion angle and caster dialed in would have been impossible even when cranking on the cam bolts. Maybe the MJ/XJ shim set up can get everything lined up closer, I am not sure. Not to mention the addition twist applied to the factory control arms, due to increased droop, (longer shocks included with most kits will yield this) can cause them to break.

Your truck should sit perfect with 31s and a 3" lift. Remember, you generally get what you pay for with a lift. Those three kits are very basic at an entry level. I do not have experience with those kits, but their inherent design with the AALs and only lift coils up front, will yeild in a rough riding truck that probably has front geometry issues and fatigue the remaining stock parts quickly. I would pick the cheapest of the three so you have less invested in the lift when replacement time comes around. In my opinion, anything more than a 1-2" budget boost should include: - sway bar discos - adjustable track bar - adjustable control arms - brake lines - bump stops Take a look at Hell Creek for a lift. Tom is a member here at CC and will give you a discount (see sticky in classifieds). He sells a fairly complete kit that includes new leaf packs paired with RC front end components.

That fiberglass bed skin doesn't look terrible for a purpose built truck. Looks like I will need to follow their build. Jeep Racing, making a return :yes:

Beautiful truck with the clean classic lines that we can all appreciate on these trucks. A well deserved winner for June! Congratulations!

As May come to an end I wanted to give one last "Thank You" to the 'club and its members. Talked to the body shop guy today and got news that the driver side floor is done and the new rockers and cab corners are being fitted in place. I will continue to keep my build thread updated for those who want to see the fruition of my work.

Had an opportunity to buy that truck when I was looking for an MJ a few years back for about $8K. It was for sale by a guy that had connections with 4x4Land in Topeka, I believe. (they did the gears in my TJ) Disappointed I never went to look at it.

To reduce or eliminate the front end rake on your truck you can do spacers above the front coils, add a few of the factory isolator pads above the front coil springs, or replace the coils with some V8 ZJ coils. Then drive your truck to your favorite tire shop and get an alignment. I also do not like much, if any, rake on an MJ.

They didn't even have the decency to paint the engine bay :doh: Probably has 118,000 miles on it, not 18,000. It does look clean, but it should after a fresh paint job.

Sure sounds like it could be the CPS. My folks 93 XJ was doing the same thing while I was driving it for a month. Replaced the CPS with a Mopar unit and it hasn't done it again. That was 1 year ago. Maybe you could try a new TPS. You even mentioned that it (or removal) helped get it running again.. Can you pull the codes with the 3 on key trick? Even if the CEL is not illuminated it could be storing codes. Or is the 95 OBDii?

I am 6-3 and found my MJ to be a pretty comfy fit. Then again, I have found the same for about all Jeeps. My MJ has much more interior room than my work truck, a Ford Ranger.

I can't speak for the shortbed truck, but Downey quit making covers for the longbed last year. I tried to buy one at the end of the year.

If you can read and follow the wiring diagrams in the FSM, I would remove the purple box and trace the wires to year source. Clip and then repair the factory harness by soldering and heat shrink. Then buy the OEM Mopar cruise set up. No splices and is factory stuff. A little expensive, but much better than any aftermarket. Helped install one on my folks 93XJ. Works great! I think jeepsareus or Morris 4x4 center should have one for you.

You had better stick around. Your truck is too nice for us not to see! I had a similar issue with my fan. Ran a wire to an extra fog light switch on the dash for manual operation.