87Warrior

From another MJ. The sticky in regards to patch panels had some momentum with replacement cab corners, but I don't think anything ever came of it. My body shop guy said he could, and has repaired MJ cab corners. It would be expensive. I was lucky enough to find a scrap truck that had good corners, so I cut them out. If you are worried about rusting out the inner metal, why don't you pull the seat/b pillar plastic, reach into the corner, sand away and then treat with POR15 or a similar product? At least you could protect the structure of the cab back. I will say that my cab corners were pretty rough, but it is the front part of my inner rocker that needs the most work. I kind of want to make a mold of the corners I have. Maybe somebody could use them to make duplicate corners for us, I don't know.

Haven't had a problem with the Super Winch on the front of my TJ since installed a few year back. Although I do keep it covered 85% of the time. I noticed that my folks 93 XJ has some sort of rubber type splash guard attaching at the cross member going from side to side and back. I would like to incorporate something like this on my MJ. I think if the rear splash guard was installed in conjunction with the front bumper, most salt spray would be deflected from the winch.

Wait. They plan outages if it may storm? Even if the circuit switches are flipped open, lighting could still strike a line/pole within the circuit and send all of that power to a smaller concentration customers, increasing damages. Or maybe they take the sub off line. In my short 25 years growing up in the severe weather producing Midwest, I have never heard of such a planned outage due to weather. Sure the power would get knocked out on occasion by squirrels, lighting or trees on the wires. When I was little a lightning strike hit the pole in the back yard or the house. It burned up my PowerWheels Jeep batteries and charger. Talk about depressing. Now that I live in the city, my phone and internet connections are wireless (Clear and Verizon). Power is from KCPL who I work for planning the tree trimming. Cable is Time Warner, it is who my apartment is wired for. I would say Kansas has quite a bit of utility competition, considering.

Thanks for posting pictures of this truck. I think it looks great. I bet it is even more fun to drive :brows:

Truck is looking great. That interior looks very nice, and I usually don't like black interiors :brows: I think my truck had a few similar stains of unknown origin.

Sounds like quite the truck you are building.

It looks like the SWB is the same or similar to the LWB. I don't know if I have a picture or not, but I know the hanger bolts to the inside of the rear frame rail (might be cross member on the long bed, its been a few months since I removed it). There should be two small holes in the frame with nuts welded on the backside. IIRC a 10mm took the bolts out... Or snapped them.

I plan to use a 22 gallon fuel tank from an OBDI Dodge Dakota. You may have space issues in the SWB, I am not sure. The 15 gallon might be a good option for you. Since the vocabulary everybody uses in their 97+ conversions vary, searching for a specific answer is a bit of a challenge. Your best bet is to read through the build threads to see how us 'coversion' people tackle problems we encounter. A few of them: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=15166 viewtopic.php?f=7&t=20535 viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26328 viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11834 Air bags should function as they would in the XJ if you take care when moving the harness over. Make sure you place the air bag module in the same configuration as it was in the XJ. Be prepared for a lot of work :wrench:

There may be codes stored even if the CEL is not illuminated. Don did a very good job explaining the process to pull the codes.

Those tops really help out the JK in my eye. I really like my original style Viking Fastback on my TJ

I e-mailed Warn and they said the VR8000 can mount feet forward. It is also a bit shorter than the XRC8 and M8000, which is a bonus due to the space constraints behind the cross member. Now to buy it. All websites list the winch for the same price. 4 Wheel Parts offers free shipping while most others charge $50-$70. I took a second look at my hand drafted measurements an noticed a few discrepancies with my drafted version. The corrections bring several of our dimensions equal to one another while some of the others remain different, but close.

While I can't view that document on my phone, I will say I really like the new VR 8000lb'er and will probably be plunking down the cash for it this week to get the rebate. Its only $100 more than the XRC8 and it is a Warn.

Do you know if the JK rubi and TJ rubi share the same type of thick cut gear? I know the stock TJ rubi 4.10s will fit another D44 if it has the 3.92 or [numerically] smaller carrier.

I would not doubt that my initial findings are skewed. I used a tape meaure and an over sized triangle to find the dimensions, both of which were cumbersome. Unfortunately I had left my precision drafting instruments at home. I was honestly surprised it actually fit when I tried for the first time. I may make a foam core cut out of your bracket just to see how it fits on my truck this weekend.

Is it the back bumper bracket bolt hole that is different? For whatever reason I had the hardest time pulling dimensions off of that one. :fs2: Would you mind posting or Emailing your findings? I designed it with 1/2" holes, but drilled 3/8" for the photo since it was the largest drill bit I could quickly find. I will note that both of my front frame rails are tweaked a little. I did not realize the driver side was tweaked until I set a straight edge to it.

Preliminary side plate mounting locations. I based the mounting locations from the front-bottom bumper bracket bolt at the front of the frame. The actual plate needs a bit of refining so it is not dimensioned. Tried a cutout on some leftover matte board. Image Not Found

Looks fantastic. Spence did a great job at reproducing those things

Rust will be you biggest enemy with the Comanche. The interior floors under the carpet, rocker panels under the doors, cab corners and rear bed fenders are the known rust locations. It sounds like you are familiar with wrenching on a vehicle, so I wouldn't let a suffering drive train keep you out of a truck with a solid body. Welcome to the madness :D

What measurements do you need off the rear of the MJ frame? My long bed truck is stripped down to the shell so accessing those locations out back should be a piece of cake.

Saw that earlier today and had a good chuckle. But then I thought about it. It is the truth. The Club is the source for MJ information. Afterall, its not like Chrysler is of any use to an MJ fan.

You raise a good point. However, I am not building a winch bumper just a winch plate. This whole setup will be (hopefully) invisible with the factory bumper skin hiding it all. I borrowed the D-ring mount measurements from $500MJ who built a set of d-ring mounts that work with the factory bumper. I plan to reinforce the factory bumper and tie it directly to the side plates. The reinforced bumper will hold the fairlead. At least this is my hope.

That is on the plate for this weekend. I really hope the driver and passenger side are the same with the driver only having more holes. My pasenger frame rail was pushed in by the previous owner quite abit on the outside. To be repaired by the body shop. I will be sure to share my findings.

Said plane is an experimental RV-7A... A little 2 seater. Not sure if he is still a member of the flying club or not who has a few 172s and 182s. If its even feasible to drive, I'm sure there would be an extra seat.

Willy- in my mind it ends up as a single piece, welded together not bolted together. I tried to maintain the winch plate with few cuts and welds needed. I had thought about simply cutting the stock bumper tabs off, but I scrapped that idea because that only leaves 2 bolts holding the passenger side plate/tie-in on and it would eliminate 4 solid points of contact with the uni-frame rails. I utilized the sway bar mounts and extend a bracket/strap from the bottom of the frame under the stock bumper tabs. My thought was that these straps would be welded to the side plate/tie-in. The top portion of the winch plate would be welded directly to the side plates in front of the stock bumper tabs. A similar design on the bottom of the winch plate ties directly into the sway bar bracket/strap, which in turn is welded to the side plate. This results in the sides of the winch plate not being tied to or supported by the frame at all. My solution was to sandwich the stock bumper tabs with a vertical support connecting the top and bottom of the winch plate, welded in of course. This support may get nuts welded to the inside of it for the stock bumper bracket bolts to grab a hold of. As I mentioned at the start of this thread, this is the first time I have attempted anthing like this. If you see or are concerned about a flaw, let me know! :thwak:

Rob would be holding the Comanche poster :dunce: :jump: