87Warrior

I found my MJ D44 by searching "commanche" on craigslist :yes: Axle and drive shaft delivered to me for less than $200.

Rear: MJ D44 4.10s Auburn LSD ZJ Disk Brakes Front: Rubi D44 w/ locker 4.10s Vanco Brakes This is the set up my truck will be running once on the road.

Hey, another KC area MJ! Did you have it last summer? I swear I parked next to that truck last year in Gardner.

Does the gray pigtail reach the bottom of the battery tray? I seem to recall a random wire/sensor going to the bottom of the battery tray, through the inner fender well.

Any details about their MJ stuff for the rear bumper? I have never heard of them, but that backbone set up looks very nice. I like a rig that appears more stock, that would fit the bill nicely.

What kind of highway mileage are you getting? Notice any extra valve train noise with the roller rockers? Road trips are fun. Road trips across the country in a Jeep is superb!

:agree: I tried, several times. No way. In all fairness, the guy could have had it spaced out, but CL always lumps the text together. Its still no excuse. EDIT: I think this is the Jeep. http://www.illambitioncustoms.com/galle ... gler-build

Was a cold lazy weekend and did not get much done to the truck. Removed some of the seam sealer around the inner firewall of the truck. I found RUST forming at the TOP of the firewall/cowl/a-pillar seam. I almost left this area alone since it appeared rust free. If you blame the clutch master for allowing water in, you should remove the seam sealer in that corner as well. Coated the back 1/2 of the frame with POR's Tie-Coat primer. This stuff surprised me. First off, IT IS BLUE! Secondly, it has the consistency of house latex paint :nuts: It requires a minimum of 24 hours to cure, above 65 degrees. Went back to the donor to pull some more panels, this time for rust free steel for the body shop to use. If you wanted to know what gives the A pillar its strength:

First mod: Ditch the Yankee Candle smelly thing! :rotf: I am glad a CC member picked that beauty up. Is there anything you plan on doing to it?

Jason, just PM me your email address and I will send you what I have this evening. Its not 100% complete because some parts of the build didn't interest me.

Oh yes, I followed the build for your new truck to the T. I have much of the build saved, with pictures and slightly more organized, in a Word document. Woodkrawler was really the inspiration I needed to start the work on my truck :D I look forward to seeing what you do with it. Oh yeah, its 10 minutes into Sunday :brows:

I run synthetic. Why? I am not sure. It seems the synthetics usually meet my preferred ratings over conventional. I started running synthetic in a 4.2 YJ that had 100K miles on it. Replaced the valve cover gasket and noticed lots of gunk build up on the valve train when I first got it. After some 20K miles (with synthetic) I had to do the gasket again (I was using the cork, hadn't learned of the rubber) and noticed the valve train looked nearly spotless. Little to no gunk on it.

:clapping: That is good news. No cat or muffler!?!? That thing must be loud. I thought my donor with the exhaust cut just past the cat was loud. Bet it felt good to be behind the wheel again.

The paint seems to have stuck to the metal really good. Unfortunately I have just recently applied it so I can't say if its bullet proof or not. You can click the comanche link in my signature to see what I have done with it.

Welcome to the Club! There is a good group of folks here. The search function here is at best tolerable. I have found that by limiting the number of key words and selecting what forum I speculate the best results will be in seems to work. You can visit www.greatlakesXJ.com and download the XJ FSM (factory service manual) to use for most repairs. Occasionally a MJ FSM pops up on eBay. Those other off the shelf manuals aren't even worth their weight in paper and ink. Be sure to use the Marine Clean and Metal Ready (it may be called prep something now) before applying POR15. And wear gloves! Trust me... I have been to Moab once. It was awesome. Scenery like nothing I have ever witnessed. I do want to go back, just not at the end of June like I did last time.... :dunce:

Sounds like a deal. PM me the estimated shipping cost and I will send you some $$$ I'll even throw in some extra for your time. Thanks :cheers:

The small hardware store in my hometown has a great selection of nuts and bolts, so I visit them often. I like my stuff fixed right, so I tend to pick up the proper part.

That is a very good looking MJ. If it is truly rust free, I would say it is worth his asking price. (check under the carpet at the floor boards) You are going to get a wide range of opinions on the price since a lot of people end up with a truck for $200 up to $5000. Having to deal with rust and crust on my truck, I would be more than willing to pay a premium for a rust free, clean, truck. 33's and 3.07s won't get you much better mileage than your full size truck.

I have contacted that guy 5 times trying to buy the whole truck. Not one reply or call. :fs1: I am about 100 miles from Springfield.

Yes. Those, except for an MJ, not an XJ. Have any laying around? :brows:

The biggest problem is getting all of the MJs in an area running at the same time. Heck, I know there are 3 members from Wichita, 3 from KC, 1 in se ks and 3 from Mo. That is at least 10 of us in a 200 mile radius. Some of our rigs are projects, some folks are not driving age and others are way to busy. I have only met 2 of the members. Back in 2005 I met a group from the Runicon Owners forum out in Ouray Colorado for some wheeling. Nearly 20 folks showed up for this unorganized trip. It was a blast. A guy from WA even trailered down. In order for such an event to occur, the location must be destination wheeling and centrally located to most members. Moab and CO are popular places because everybody has heard of them and recognizes them as some sort of wheelers paradise.

Download and understand the wiring diagrams for your XJ model. http://greatlakesxj.com/tech.html The interior harness should be very easy to thin out. I removed the plugs and wiring for the back doors by simply starting at the door plug and following the wire back to its source. If it terminated in a soldered joint I cut the wire, if it terminated at a plug I pulled apart the plug and removed the terminal. I would not alter the engine harness or the dash harness. To much to go wrong!

As I understand it, her mother invested $2K in a recording. She sold some 2 million copies on iTunes and gets to keep $0.70 per song... Yeah, she may be terrible but she definitely has made more money than I did at 13 :doh:

Watched. Couldn't read the words due to the postage stamp size screen on my phone... What are you pooling for? A parking garage? Be careful, you might get it. When I was at KSU the students wanted a garage for more parking close/on campus. They built it over an existing parking lot, so the parking issues were magnified during the 3 years of construction. They added more parking spaces, but not for students. Faculty spaces increased but student spaces decreased. Not to mention a simple meter fine went from $15 to $50. Athletic ticket prices also doubled. I never drove to campus, granted I practically lived there due to my degree. A 20 minute walk would get me to class on time with out needing to blow an air horn at people. :rotfl2:

That is very cool...and I am working 30miles from Sedalia. Too bad I have absolutely no way to haul it or store it here in the city.