Sir_Brando

No big. I never took the chain or gears off so it's as simple as putting the cover and hb back on. It's all about learning, thanks for the help fellas.

Jeff, I went through your post as well as others as I was doing it since I knew nothing about this. Your pictures helped a lot, exactly what us new guys need to see. The pan has been removed for cleaning and paint so no worries there. If I replace everything, any reason to go with one manufacturer over another? I was leaning toward either the cloyes or clevite full kits at rockauto. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1181663,parttype,5756 I never verified TDC or anything. I'll go back through your writeup again, but would there be anything wrong with just putting a new set on exactly how the old set comes off as it sits? Also Jeff, what did you end up doing with your HB? Your rubber looked pretty chewed on. Mine doesn't look as bad as yours did and it doesn't rub. It had some liquid gasket (pic below). Is this typical? Should I put it back on like that?

??? If the block was replaced at 151k, then are you saying it has gone 180k since the replacement, or are you saying that the engine really only has 29k on it? I apologize, all mileages are in reference to the odometer. So yes, 29k since the block was replaced, that was in 2002. CPS replaced 15k ago. Any recommendation on tensioners? Haven't had to deal with any parts to make me familiar with these manufactures.

Thanks for the replies fellas. I'll replace the tensioner for now and start getting it back together at least. I understand the 2.5 and the 4.0 use the same chain that's why I wanted more opinion on it before I replaced it as well. RockAuto has the Enginetech for 12 bucks or should I get a Cloyes or Clevite? The engine has 180k on it. At 151k, the PO had the block replaced. The CPS was replaced at 165k but I will go through Cruiser's tips, bout time to do most of that anyways. Ill check the fuel pressure, but I replaced the pump about 5k miles back. It was just giving some of the same symptoms that I was experiencing before I replaced it. I'll look into the oil pump and the piston slap as well, just need to get it moving again. It is typically my daily driver for about a grand total of 6 miles a day and now I'm stranding the wife at home. Thanks again for the inputs, I'll dig back into it and see what I find.

89 2.5. Symptoms: Engine was running alright but with a tapping/ticking mostly noticeable at idle. Frequency increased with engine rpm and it has either gotten louder in the last few months or I've just been noticing it more the last few months, not sure. I had a video, but I recently lost everything on my phone so that's no help. Thinking back, there were also a couple times where it would crank and crank without starting, which is very odd for my truck. I had to floor the gas pedal then it would sputter and start up, requiring some feathering on the gas pedal for about 20sec before it would run smooth in idle. Around the same time I was having this issue, it would hesitate/bog down while driving for about 4sec at a time. This only happened a couple times. I chalked all of this up to my fuel pump going bad, which I'm rethinking now. Where I'm at: I started with checking the flywheel, which looks fine. I continued to drop the oil pan, which was nice and clean with nothing but oil in it. Took this opportunity to crack open the timing. Since I know nothing when it comes to timing, it initially looked fine, but after going through some threads it doesn't look fine after all. Couple pics I went out and snapped are below. So I'm convinced I need a new tensioner and I'm looking for advice on whether I need to go buy a timing set as well. Could this be the source of my ticking/tapping? Is this enough slack to have slipped and the timing being off be the cause of my hesitation and hard starting? I've read several threads but I'm looking for some more help. I can replace parts like a champ, but this is starting to be real mechanic stuff. Thanks in advance. Tensioner installed, 20 pins: Tensioner off: Tensioner:

x5, I'd say scrap that idea for 100 bucks. Haven't heard of too many people getting skin cancer by not having a ceramic tint. Also, if you're not already committed, its not too late to put tint on yourself. Saves a few more bucks.

Paint Complete.

Mine did the same thing, wouldn't go back all the way. All I did was take the springs off of the bottom that make it spring forward. I can now get the seat all the way to the back glass. Been working great like this for years.

I assume this is for having it done professionally, but I just finished doing mine today. Since the comanche only has 4 pieces of glass(plus wings for pre-97 doors), I just got a roll online. Picked up some 5% from Windowtint.com here. I have the 97 doors so I got a roll 30inches wide. 10ft worked just fine and I have extra. The back glass is only 14 inches so the excess off the back made a great brow in the front. Cost was $19 for the roll, $8.90 for shipping, $2 for a squeegee and spray bottle from dollar tree, $8 for beer. This took a few hours but was well worth it for the low cost. Saved some money for some other parts. Quality is better than walmart and shipping was crazy fast. I'll post some pics if anyone is interested.

Today's high was a blistery 117 over here in sunny "undisclosed location in southwest asia". Happy 4th fellas. :USAflag: Anyone down in the southwest oklahoma area? I'll be moving down there later this year. See ya!

Today is the tenth day straight here in Wichita its been over 100. the last 5 days have been 105 or higher. Its the 24th today and its only been below 100 for 6 days this month. It's forecasted over 100 from now until the end of September. This is getting stupid. I don't have a garage so it's too hot to wrench. Even if I get it in the shade, I can't stop wiping sweat long enough to do anything productive. I leave for a few months here soon, so this makes for a pretty unproductive summer.

mine was fixed in just one radiator flush. might fix your problem. pretty cheap diagnosis

Great lookin pics.

I obtained 97 doors from CL and a set of regulators from ebay. Problem is, I didn't receive any bolts to mount them up properly. My regulators did come with the three nuts to hold the motor assembly into the door. Since I had an abundance of T25 bolts from body panel swaps, I got creative. Tools required(started with dremel but switch to cutter for sake of time): I cut 5 standard body panel T25 bolts to various sizes. These sizes prevented the standard size bolt from rubbing on any other moving pieces. Mainly the ones attaching the regulator to the glass, since there is barely any clearance between the rail and the inner door frame. The bolts were a bit of a tight fit at first, but went in just fine. It just took a little pressure to get them started. This is a very convenient solution to having no mounting bolts for the regulators.

So for the last month or so, I've been starting my truck by vice grips attached to ignition rod and pushing on the grips once they key is on. Thinking it was something wrong with the switch itself, and not that it had just slipped and needed to be adjusted, I took the ignition switch off to investigate. After seeing that it was pretty filthy, I thought it would be a marvelous idea to take it apart and give it a little air treatment. To do this I pryed the metal cover off the plastic switch body. Cover your face for this one boys, a couple of these actually hurt. After about 45 min of searching and a few brews later, I came up with the following parts: 8 tiny springs 2 slightly larger springs 4 brass bars 1 stainless steel bar 1 large spring (seen installed in the plastic switch body) 1 small stainless steel button 1 plastic switch guide A couple more brews later and some easy elimination, I found that putting it back together was pretty easy. Starting with the small stainless button, nipple side down: One slightly larger spring over the button, and the other right next to it. Then the tiny springs: Brass bars on top the tiny springs, rounded side up. Stainless bar on the slightly larger springs: Place the plastic switch body over top of it, spring side opposite of the stainless bar side. Then put the metal housing back over it all. Feel free to clean up and re-grease everything while it is apart (not shown). Or you can save yourself the time and buy a new one. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... ing=search It does not pay being as curious as I am.