87Warrior

You know, the MJ is the only vehicle I have ever liked the bushwackers on, for what ever reason. Looks great! What kind of air compressor is that shoved against the wall?

As soon as they allow volunteers to go down there I will be on my way. All of the radio DJ's are telling us in KC to stay put since Joplin is still a search and rescue zone. I hope you were out of the storms path too!

Congrats ! It is a great feeling, though I did the asking. If you end up having a formal ceremony and need table decorations, maybe you can convince your fiance of something I failed at since you are THAT comanche girl. My wife wanted candles on the tables. I thought it was an ok idea, but I wanted to put the candles on an old dished pistons that were polished. Then use some polished up valves to hold pictures or something. I thought it was genius. She did not :dunno:

I have a few pics on this page of my build: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=15166&start=45 (you can click on the thumbnails for a larger pic) I will be following you build! Sounds like it will be a sweeeeet truck :yes:

Hey, at least you faired better than this guy: Talked to the guys at the office when we filled up with fuel. Local doctor came in and for got his gear..... Skidded on his belly most of the runway. They two got out and went to call a big truck to pull it off the active. After a few minutes they turned around and the super heated fuel tanks caught fire. It was some small airport in northern AR.

The JK Rubicons have the push button disconnect. When the JK first came out, Chrysler had a goof in the system so the dealers were selling the complete sway bar assembly for dirt cheap. I think they realized the mistake when they sold out of them in a few months. It is almost bolt on for the YJ. There are companies who sell swaybar disconnects that are not a quick release link style ORO Sway Loc http://www.offroadonly.com/products/sus ... ndex.shtml SkyJacker Rock Lock http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/skyjac ... -4982.html JKS SwitchBlade (kind of) http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merch ... isconnects

It should be possible with the engine harness hooked up to all of the sensors and pcm with a make shift fuel pump. Afterall, Hesco sells a stand alone 4.0 engine harness. You could always video tape the motor running in the vehicle.

Interesting way to go about it. Does it seem to read correctly? I look forward to hearing your long term experience with the set up. Did you install the higher pressure HO pump?

Wow. Some of those structures are impressive! Water is powerful stuff. I hope the water let's up... Not a good thing the Midwest is getting pounded with rain, which will end up down there sooner than later.

I remember when it first came out and was limited to only Harvard and other Ivy League college students. My uber-smart friends wouldn't STFU about how awesome it was, but I was just at a lowly NJ state school and it wasn't until about the summer of '04 that my school was allowed on it. Back then, there was another site called collegefacebook.com that all of the non-Facebook colleges were on, but once Facebook opened up to the world, that site vanished. Before Facebook was opened up to EVERYONE with a valid e-mail address, it was a lot more interesting to me. I don't really like to use it much anymore now that my parents, aunts, uncles, girlfriend's mother, and girlfriend's relatives are on it. You are right. It seems I joined up after K-State was added to the acceptance list along with my classmates. At that time I recall a form you could fill out to "suggest a school be added" or something. It was an excellent tool to contact other students in my field of study to discuss issues and ideas we come across. Sparked a lot of interesting conversation in our lectures when comparing our studies to other schools. Though at the time, K-State was #1 and #3 for Landscape Architecture and Architecture schools so our professors found it mostly humours. Nowadays I don't find it useful as a tool at all. If I log on once a week I am doing good. I have no desire to see my sister's friend's baby eating apple sauce. Does this mean I am getting old and grumpy?

Hey, maybe they are opening up a compact pickup truck position... Maybe for Jeep to fill :wavey:

:hmm: I think I would go black all around with the rescue green. Flat or reflective? I don't know, but tailgate and side should be the same. I like consistency. Can ya tell :dunce:

Blow-by more than likely. A newer HO (I believe that is all required) valve cover should reduce the amount of oil that spews into the filter box. You should find lots of discussion by searching.

Ah, I see. I wondered why they looked 'gold-ish' and just chalked it up to you doing some excessive polishing :brows: The factory aluminum foil tags on my rubi were fastened in the same manner your custom brass tags are. The problem is, once you would go to torque the bolt it would twist the tag.

So, $300 gets you a cut up Radio Flyer and a cut up Power Wheels...that actually doesn't have power. Saw a neglected Power Wheels Jeep in a storm drainage ditch at work today. I let my mind run wild for a few minutes and thought about pulling it out, but it was missing the hood and all drive components and I came back to reality. Plus it smelled like urine, or something.

I say its a toss up - follow your gut. The D44 is not worlds better or stronger than the 8.25. It does have more aftermarket support though. However, the XJ D44 will probably have drum brakes and you already have disks on the 8.25. For $400 I would consider; $600 I would walk away.

How in the world do you keep from twisting the axle tags up? The tags on my rubi are twisted at the ends :fs1: Granted they are not on the Jeep anymore, questioning for the MJ :yes:

Tailgate handle should be the same color as the flares in my opinion. Black. How long do you suspect it will take to get your truck back and all painted up?

CR Laurance sells a few MJ back windows. I am not sure if you can order direct or if you have to go through a dealer.

Don't forget CC! http://m.facebook.com/pages/ComancheClu ... 78134?_rdr I've had an account since it first became available in 04 or so. Truth be told, I don't really use it. http://m.facebook.com/brett.rolfs?refid=0

Same here :yes: I like admiring other's work. There are a lot of Jeep things I still am trying to figure out.

If you want the ZJ steering, you can pull parts from the yard or buy new. I bought new. All you need is the tie rod, TRE and adjusting sleeve. The drag link is the same. Your 2wd front axle is attached to the truck the same as a 4wd and can suffer from the same issues. I was mistaken in my previous post, you do not have the unit bearing design on the 2wd axle. More than likely your wheel bearings are not the root of your issues. As for an adjustable TB, you should be able to use one on a stock height truck with the 2wd axle. I would ask the manufacture if it can be adjusted to stock length. Typically there is clearance issues with the differential cover on a stock height 4wd, obviously not a concern for you.

Thank you, thank you, thank you for the comments! I am going to try and make it to the body shop this weekend to take some progress pics. I miss working on it and feel 'wrong' letting somebody else do the body work. But it is for the best :brows: Thanks. And yes, once completed (are they ever really 'done'?) you are more than welcome to check it out. Heck, even if not done you should let me know if you ever make it back in town. Wow, thank you Don. You know, your truck was the first MJ build I read when I joined CC. You set the standard for me, for a truck I didn't even own when I joined the 'club. It hardly seems possible than I could have any emotional influence on you and your truck. On a more serious note, I gave a CHROME grill serious thought, but I have decided to get the grill/bezels painted the same silver as the 'Jeep' sticker on the tailgate. I think it will flow with my style a bit better. I have already talked with my insurance company about my insuring options with this truck. Expect the unexpected if you will. Everything I do will be covered 100% and it won't cost much more than my Rubi :clapping: I am so anxious to drive the truck out to Colorado for a week and do some camping and some wheeling.

That is a pretty good write up, but he removes much more than needed, especially if in the Junkyard. To pull my dash out nearly complete, I did the following: - Disconnect battery - Remove plastic Bezels and covers from dash - Disconnect steering column harness, drop and pull out steering column - Disconnect Dash harness at the firewall, the plug is held together with a 10mm bolt and any door/kick panel feeds - Disconnect/Remove TCU - Trace and unplug HVAC vacuum lines - Loosen but do not remove the 15mm support bolts at the A-pillar - Remove the 10mm bolts along windshield and start to rotate the dash away from the firewall - Disconnect vent plumbing and any other plugs you may have missed - Remove the two 15mm bolts you loosened up, beware the dash is heavy and will fall to the ground - Pull dash out and stick the bezels back on

With that many miles on your truck, I bet all of the bushings and bearings need replaced up front. I would start repairing by putting new bushings on the trackbar, but if you want to lift it, buy an adjustable TB. Next I would address the steeing, draglink/tierod/tie rod ends. You can upgrade to the heavier duty ZJ tierod at this time if you want. Don't forget an alignment. If you are lifting, work on the steering at the same time as the lift so you only pay to get it aligned once. If it is still not tracking well down the road you may need control arm bushings. Once again, if lifting the truck you may opt for aftermarket arms instead of sticking new bushings in the stock arms. If it still feels loose, replace the ball joints. Inspect the unit bearings (hub) and replace as needed. You should be able to do all of this with basic hand tools and possibly a puller or two borrowed from AutoZone or the like. There are several helpful videos posted on Youtube showing how to remove and install ball joints. There is a write up somewhere here on CC that explains how to tighten up the Renix era steering columns.