87Warrior

He is going to have to rip out some of that new insulation. Main harness plug hole needs fitted and the stock AW4 harness plug needs filled. :hmm:

This is why I will use Anti-Seize on every bolt when I put the 92 back together!

The knuckle is held in place by the taper of the ball joint stud and castle nut. Remove castle nuts from upper and lower ball joints, then drop the knuckle. You will end up with this: (ball joints still pressed into the 'C' with knuckle removed)

That is a $1500 truck around here.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarte ... 99849.html This Ball Joint Separator made my life much easier when doing my TJs ball joints. It will drop the knuckle with little effort.

1. Moab 2. Ravine 3. Icon

Yes, they are that tough. If you do not have an impact wrench you will need cheater bars. If you can, borrow a compressor and buy the CH impact wrench from walmart. Trust me. It will make your life much easier!

The Ravine wheel is my second most favorite Jeep wheel. I would not hesitate to plunk down $250 for a set of 4 in good shape. Granted they are nearly impossible to find in this area, so my opinion might be skewed.

http://www.bankspower.com/galesinsidern ... into-Jeeps

Its a short bed bar out of an 87. It is located in Excelsior Springs, MO just north east of KC. Hope somebody grabs it. I don't really want to drive up and get it as I don't have a use for it. But if somebody else wants it, I would be happy to do what ever it takes to get it to you!

He is asking $50 for it. I think that is about the going rate for these things. Never seen one around here before! Think its worth the 40 minute drive :brows:

Local guy selling a 'Comanche Roll Bar' out of an 86. Should be a long bed since it is an '86. Is it OEM? Thinking about picking it up for a future MJ project, not my 92, if it is the OEM version. Image Not Found Image Not Found No mounting hardware.

The WARN Trans4mer is by far the best looking "grill guard" style set up for our trucks, if you ask me. I've never been a big fan of 'grill guards' but the Warn unit looks good :thumbsup: The C4x4 tow hooks sound like they would meet your requirements without much up front cash. There are a ton a high quality front bumpers out there. You just need to establish a budget and figure out what you want out of a bumper up front.

Can you post a picture of the A-Pillar where the lower dash will bolt to? I do not understand why you would need to weld a nut to the body in order to bolt the lower dash in. I simply drilled the dash bracket so that I could utilize the stock dash mounting hole in the a-pillar. Curiosity strikes me why you wouldn't try to use the factory mount.

Seems like it needs more frame tie-in. That thing is just using the stock bumper mounts. Plus, its ugly (opinion of course) You could go with something like this if you want a winch plate and tow hook for just a little bit more: http://detoursusa.com/xjbackbone.php

But Mr. Gore seems to think we are!

:wrench: I have been working on the Jeep at night (8PM to 2AM). Makes it a bit more challenging but with a few lights everything is good. On weekends I get up before the sun and work till its miserable then nap or search forums. I do work outside, everyday. Been consuming at least 250ounces of water a day.

His and her diary entries for the same day: Her Diary: Tonight, I thought my husband was acting weird. We had made plans to meet at a nice restaurant for dinner. I was shopping with my friends all day long, so I thought he was upset at the fact that I was a bit late, but he made no comment on it. Conversation wasn't flowing, so I suggested that we go somewhere quiet so we could talk. He agreed, but he didn't say much. I asked him what was wrong; He said, 'Nothing.' I asked him if it was my fault that he was upset. He said he wasn't upset, that it had nothing to do with me, and not to worry about it. On the way home, I told him that I loved him. He smiled slightly, and kept driving. I can't explain his behavior I don't know why he didn't say, 'I love you, too.' When we got home, I felt as if I had lost him completely, as if he wanted nothing to do with me anymore. He just sat there quietly, and watched TV. He continued to seem distant and absent. Finally, with silence all around us, I decided to go to bed. About 15 minutes later, he came to bed. But I still felt that he was distracted, and his thoughts were somewhere else. He fell asleep - I cried. I don't know what to do. I'm almost sure that his thoughts are with someone else. My life is a disaster. His Diary: Jeep wouldn't start, can't figure out why.

Aw crap, sorry I forgot about Motion :fs1: Just curious, what would be your shipped price for the hardware kit and rod end? Would it be possible to have delivery by this Saturday? Feel free to PM me. I decided to order the Currie Rock Jock TB as it also requires a 5/8" hole at the frame. I will use the RE1600 on the MJ. Brett

I am in quite the pickle. Went to replace my RE1600 rod end this weekend to discover the misalignment spacers and bushing are seized to the bolt. Tried to order a new hardware kit and was told RE might start shipping August 1. I am taking to Jeep to CO August 6. You can see the problem here. I figure I will cut my losses and replace the RE trackbar with a JKS unit. But there is a problem. When installing the RE trackbar, I had to drill out the frame end mount to 5/8" while the JKS instructions indicate a required 9/16 to be drill at the frame end mount. I am on the search for a bushing to fill the extra space so I can install the JKS trackbar. I know little to nothing about bushings or their metal properties that would be good for such an application. In short, I think I need a 5/8OD to 9/16ID bushing. Help! Thanks, Brett

Would you mind giving us a bit of detail in how you did that? I don't really know how to work with aluminum but would love to resurrect my tired stock wheel. I also have a set of Rubi Moabs that need saved. Thanks!

Evey Jeeper should have a set of torx bits in their tool box. Don't get the cheapest set out there though, they will twist!

I really like the slider and have wanted one for ever! I just can't get over their cost. Doesn't look like that D30 was geared by an expert.

What year is your truck? Open or Close cooling system? I know you mentioned the 'radiator' holding pressure but if its an open system, is the pressure tank and cap in good shape? If closed what # cap do you have on the radiator? Have you cleaned out the AC condenser? Does your fan clutch work? Does your e-fan work? Does your truck have shrouds in good shape? You should not need a 185 t-stat in there, a 195 would work the same, be better for your motor, and still over heat because something else is wrong or malfunctioning in the cooling system. I usually find those off the shelf, saver in a bottle, things snake oil. But after driving my folks '93 XJ and noticing it getting hot, approx 230, even after a water pump, flush, and t-stat, I tried "water wetter" and it stayed an indicated 210-220. Still a little warm IMHO but might need the radiator fins cleaned and another flush. The cooling system is pretty straight forward. Pressurized hot coolant flows through a series of fins with air blowing across them, cooling the coolant and pumping it back into the motor. The coolant flow is controlled by the thermostat. Your topic of "Question" surely set a few folks off. You should at least give some sort of indication into what the 'question' is in the topic line for quicker help. I actually skipped your topic several times before clicking on it because it was so vague and I assumed the information inside would be very vague.

I was having overheating issues in my 4.0L TJ. It was running 220-230 on the highway whenever the temps hit 90 degrees outside. Replaced the cooling system, piece by piece and performed countless flushes. Water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, hoses replaced. Installed a Griffin radiator and it does not get hot at all, even in this 115 degree heat.