Oizarod115

full-time is differentiated, which means that if you were truly stuck in full time one tire would spin as opposed to part-time would be spinning 2 (assuming you have open differentials) but since it is differentiated it can be driven on the road like AWD (basically what it is) part-time the front d/shaft and rear d/shaft spin the same all the time so that one tire (again open dffs) is spinning on each axle at least. full-time isnt great for truck use but is awesome for on road use but a bit pricier since they have to put a differential in the t-case so i think its mostly cost saving to put part-time in trucks instead of full-time and part-time

my truck still hasn't earned a name... ole faithful goes alright, but we shall see what happens when she's lifted

i've mainly given up searching this site, idk what it is but you can search relallly specific words and end up with everything ever posted. :dunno: what part do you need help with? parts sourcing? transmission stuff? axle/driveshaft stuff?

You've got an excellent memory! The wife was SUPPOSE to have sent you some pics, I'm no computor wiz, Pm me your email addy and I'll get some to you. The MJ project is wheeling and doing well but like all good projects it will never be completely finished, it wheeled Tellico just last weekend. I'm glad to see the bed went to such a nice truck, you know since that was originally my bed I can take some credit for the build :D. Don't go to Tellico without inviting me along, I'd be honored to show you guys around. Glad to see your project turned out so nice! small world!! i rode in your XJ at tellico in 06 i think it was! maybe 05, my brother had the camo stock cherokee then. its been a WHILE since his jeep looked like this, its now hacked (though not as prettily as yours was

sucks when you get a "runaway" diesel big rig... cause thye have a few GALLONS of oil in them... they keep revvin for a while, trick is to throw it in high gear and drop the clutch and stuff the intake from air.

who'd a thunk it?

Won't change the spring rate. His spring rate is 50-75 lbs/inch, which is extreme. I kinda want those springs... sounds exactly like my truck. sags like a sum-of-a-bich when i stand on the bumper. squats probly an inch or two (and i'm 125)

the engine weighs 1190lbs with oil in it... ;) so i'm pretty sure that's out of the question.

1989 comanche... my pride and joy, bought her off NAXJA, a guy in cleveland, GA. 1,400 with 175k on the clock and a newer 97 4.0 with 130k on it, overheated constantly ran at 250 and i thought it was a gauge issue... hahhh was i wrong, replaced radiator and alot of other stuff and now she's back to cool. love this truck, rolled over 196k a week ago. (bought it at 16 in January of 2006 with a loan from my stepdad and paid him off sometime last year)

err, somewhere in the 4's probly 4.56 if its 2.5 auto. SHOULD be a tag on the diff, if not jack up one tire and spin and count the revolutions of the driveshaft as oppose to the revolutions of the tire (spin tire 10x and if the driveshaft makes 45 spins then theyre 4.56ish) or spin it 1 time and count realllly exactly ;) nice partner in crime! :cheers: my family is from the huntington area and proctorville ohio across the river there

oooooh aahhhhh... sexxyyyy 8)

i spent 75 dollars in emissions TESTS from failing, the price of a new o2 sensor (didn't help) and eventually it took a variable map sensor to pass with flying colors. then 46 dollars in tag fee's :headpop:

if the bed is decent i would suggest unbolting it ;) that way you can sell it or put it back on if ya want. 35s are gonna look sweet on there, i've never seen one that looked bad on 35s whereabouts in WV are ya? my whole family's from there

idk if i've ever heard of a manche having a 242 factory? have you? i know a good bit of 1990 laredo XJs have them, don't know what it is about that year/line

alright guys! success, wanted to update the thread for future searches on the topic.. my numbers on the origional test were as follows 223/189 HC 259/194 FAIL-FAIL 6.56/2.36 CO 6.48/1.74 FAIL-FAIL 129/1233 NOx 177/1340 PASS-PASS after building an adjustable map sensor my numbers dropped to (guestimated from what i remember, can't find the sheet from this run, i know i failed the one section only though) these are my 4.8V trial results 150/189 HC 160/194 PASS-PASS 2.1/2.36 CO 2.4/1.74 PASS-FAIL 500/1233 NOx 600/1340 PASS-PASS i acheived that much by adjusting my MAP sensor (go-jeep has a writeup on building an ADJ one) to 4.8ish volts (5v normally) these are my 4.1ishV trial results 82/189 HC 89/194 PASS-PASS 1.01/2.36 CO 1.03/1.74 PASS-PASS 703/1233 NOx 1168/1340 PASS-PASS :popcorn: :deal: :clapping: these test results were all on premium gas fully warmed up ~210-215* motor NO OTHER MODIFICATIONS were made between tests, just MAP sensor, and you can see how much it affected the results. note: pay attention to NOx emissions as reducing voltage will cause a leaner fuel-air ratio which lowers HC/CO but increases NOx, this will only help you to pass emissions if your truck has LOWLOWLOW NOx emissions like mine did, and HIIIIGH CO/HC (an indicator of rich fuel-air mix) reducing the voltage at the MAP sensor can also increase gas mileage, but be careful to not reduce it to much and F the motor up. happy searching!

for a private party sale on a jeep that old thats hella good though! he never would've gotten 25k for it

if the sun is comin over my shoulder at the dash my truck (np231) has the FULL TIME light, you can barely make it ou along with the other lights like EMISS MAIN. and stuff. the full time light is greenish blueish,

and a mohawk crazy @$$ canadians... :cheers: :Canadaflag:

count me in a week and a half, or maybe this week if i can stop bein lazy and put my creditcard to my paypal account :roll:

its not even that complicated! far simpler, no switches necessary. remove the vacuum stuff altogether and shim the selector fork over to engaged position... they did away with this on AWD models and all jeeps newer than 95 so its not like its even necessary or practical, just one more thing to break.. you could also remove the 2 peice shafts and replace with the new style long shaft although yuo'd have to replace the inner diff seal. if you can feel it in the handle then it might be internal t-case problems as you shouldnt be able to feel the axle through the linkage...

i have the curved bottom "rocker" XJ seats and they sit a tad bit high mounted on bench seat brackets, but you could chop the bracket inhalf and reweld it for a 2"ish drop... makin it about normal seat height, i'm 6' and have no problem with my seats i like bein able to see around alot for wheelin

make sure the trackbar is tight and all other bolts are tight for that matter... also take out the track bar bolt (axle end mount) and check if the hole has been wallowed out any cause if so the axle can move even with it tight. easy to fix though. you kept the origional (non wobbly) CAs? cause i had DW caused by bad bushings in my truck, swapped out jsut hte lowers and it rides great now. just onceover for tightness on all bolts

there appears to only be one NAPA PN# for it. so id ASSuME so. ;) i know 2wds supposedly sit a tiny bit lower but probly the same part. it'd work even if they were slightly different, you can use the stock one up to about 3 inches with no ill effects

i've heard that foam stuff soaks up moisture and retains it like crazy... is that true or just a myth?? cause that would rot the side out real quick if so

its not even that complicated! my engine is from a 97 and it's got the renix intake manifold on it... so i'm sure renix would fit on an HO too. then all you gotta do is find a spot for the gauge temp sender... everything else hooks right up