jpdocdave

:agree: ya, they just make a one size fits all to save money, and make it easier for them by stocking one kit for all apps.

welcome back to the insanity, get some pics goin :wavey:

i don't like add a leafs. i don't think the metric ton springs ride that much higher, my truck doesn't sit all that tall. but, i would suggest metric ton springs, and maybe a 1" shackle, and it would probably sit level, i like that look better, my truck sits 2" taller in the back than front, i may just do 2" in front to sit level.

look at the hi country brackets for xj/mj front tow points. i like them, they tie into the sides, and also pick up the 4 bolt holes for the sway bar frame mounts.

in that case, i think its a good unit.

I wonder what the combined weight of a SM465/203/205 setup is... . umm, heavy, my trans w/ just the range box hooked to it now is too heavy to lift, i have to scoot it around the floor, and the d300 i'm putting on it is over 100 lbs, definately a heavy driveline.

:agree: 100%

i like it. people pay a lot for these things. i haven't looked around at prices, but i'd say at least 250 -300 minimum. i'd like to see it tied into the frame at another point, maybe a bracket that picks up under the sway bar frame mounts, just me though

Holy full cluster and column shift! Talk about a unicorn... :D Rob L. Looks good man! thanks for the compliment, just to clarify, it wasn't a unicorn to start. it was an idiot cluster, got a full cluster from pat, and then i cut out the tach, and installed the indicator from the old cluster. come to think of it, every part i've put on this thing has come from pat....weird :hmm:

:rotf: i think you're bias

haven't posted anything about my truck in a while. installed tow hitch, aux. trans cooler, temp gauge and sensor, gear indicator in the cluster that didn't have a spot for it before. 30" mud tires, front tow hooks, removed lower valance, and shaved front fenders to match. made lower fan shroud out of a floor mat, cuz it does run warmer without it. here's a reminder of how i found it, i still want the cap gone out of my yard :ack: 30" tires i flared the cooler lines, and used fittings instead of hose clamps for the sensor gear indicator, and trans temp gauge. gauge works, and i installed a dash light i had laying around, so it dims with the rest of the cluster as well :yes: Image Not Found i love driving this truck, and for a while i'm gonna use it for a tow rig. i'm going to keep everything cool, engine and trans temps, trailer brakes, and i'm gonna give it a shot at towing one of my yj's around. yj and car hauler i have will weigh 4800 to 4900 pounds, gonna use every bit of the 5,000 lb tow capacity. let the flaming begin :clapping: it won't win any drag races, and i'm not gonna tear up my beloved truck, keep the temps down, take it easy, cruise around 50 -55 i'm guessing, and have a good ole time. :wavey:

i've been through this all to, in my yj i'm going w/ np 203/d300 doubler. i say 203/205 doubler is your best bet. the reason i didn't do that one is for the clearance, cuz its bigger and hangs lower, and the weight/ length. i'd rather build one of these, than buy an atlas or whatever. if you going through all that and talk about failure, why run either of those transmissions? i'm running the sm465 6.55:1 first gear and indestructible. there's quite a few better trans options to consider if you wanna build this strong. edit: i bought my sm465 w/ the 203 already on it for $20 :clapping: :yes:

i wheeled the crap out of my old wrangler w/ 33's and a d35. i never broke anything, its still a turd axle, and i've seen people break them on the street even.

congrats and welcome

more likely the regulator in the tank, pressure leaks down causing hard/long start condition.

ya, normal. many years ago, before i knew much about jeeps, i had a customer have us try to fix that problem in her renix era xj, man we replaced everything, fuel pump, pressure regulator, tune up, fuel filter, sensors.....all that and there was no problem, all renix jeeps take a couple extra cranks than all other vehicles.

honestly you need to lose the d35, but 4.56 is a pretty good gearing for that, or 4.88, depending on how you wanna use it.

no ufc fans huh?

some inapropriate language, but i hate this guy, and it was awesome seeing hendo knock him out big at ufc100 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKx6_K5MgxE

you don't have to go to germany to find that. many people build hybrid axles, you can tube any 3rd member you want, and weld on the "c" for the knuckle. obviously not diy for most people, you can take all the measurements and make an existing shaft work, and essentially every part would be available at a parts store. xtreme 4x4 built a 14 bolt front axle on one of their projects.

i didn't know its been coming up, i'm kinda interested. i've heard of it before. i did put 50w in my ax5 in an old yj that started to shift harder, actually did improve with the thinner oil. i've heard of atf in manuals to, not sure if i'd do it or not.

man thats sweet

sounds like too much play is enough for the c clip to come out. i agree w/ automan, its either the groove on the shaft is worn, or the center pin, or both.

wow wade, i've never seen a rear wheel bearing fail, especially like that.

i kinda agree with this guy