jpdocdave

wow thats good, ther's some days i feel that way to in my shop. did you at least sell them any work???? looks like it could use the diffs serviced, or may be a tire rotation. :yes:

We could tell you ... but then we'd have to kill you. Being a staunch conspiracy theorist, here's another thought that has occurred to me (yes, a thought ... they are rare, but they do occur): I hope all you are aware that the ECUs in new cars function much the same as the "black boxes" in commercial aircraft. If you are involved in a serious accident, the police can query the vehicle's "black box" to find out how fast you were traveling, whether or not the brakes were applied, and a few other tidbits of potentially interesting data. And, of course, the government is pushing to have the next generation of vehicle ECUs store and report even more data. Guess what? These so-called "clunkers" the .GOV is paying so lavishly to get rid of ENTIRELY are all old enough that their ECUs don't store and report that kind of data. That's just one reason why I intend to always keep an extra XJ and/or MJ around, as a replacement for if something happens to one I'm currently driving. Even if I have to keep putting Jasper engines in them, it's cheaper than buying a new car every few years at $30,000 a pop ... and I'll always have a bug-free vehicle to drive. I don't think it's entirely accidental that this program will "just happen" to eliminate thousands of "dumb" cars from the road, to be replaced by new vehicles that can be used to tattle on the driver. :agree: 1 million percent. that is 100% correct about new vehicle computers. ever heard of obd3, its in the works, and california is using a similar idea already i am told. your vehicles computer will be interfaced to satellite, under the allusion that is for emissions purposes. yes, you will recieve a message when your vehicle isn't passing emissions, and that politely worded message will tell you to go get your car fixed. i think it goes without saying what other info is in those daily transmissions of data, such as precise location, speed and so on. even without the ideas of global positioning without your consent, just the idea the government sending me a message to get my car fixed is all i need. i will never purchase a new vehicle. edit: on star is already a very small version. dealer's will be alerted if your check engine light is on, and they will send you an email, they will alredy know what the code is because it is already sent through on star. oh, and they will run a monthly diagnosis of the vehicle via on star. this was in my boss's new gm vehicle dvd when he bought a new car this year. i'm sure that sounds jim dandy to some people, not for me, leave me the F alone.

so here's where i got back to it today Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found many thanks to all that helped. i took some good advice and jumped some of the grounds. the main ground from battery to block was good. but when i jumped any body ground to the battery ground problem went away. weak body ground was the culprit, i had to go back to where i was and go that direction, its just to coincidental, but that happens. i didn't screw anything up, i can't even imagine that i disturbed anything, but its possible. so here's what i did. i ran a ground cable from battery to body Image Not Found this fixed the problem, but i ran another cable from the manifold to the body just for insurance Image Not Found

Nope just a TOS gone crazy. The Computer Nerd had too much Mountain Dew. Nothing to gather the pitch forks for! :D you must be a government agent sent to calm things down :yes:

so i have a question..... by a dealer participating and taking advantage of this wonderful program to help their sales so graciously provided by our government.....said dealer relinquishes all rights to any privacy of all information to whom ever the government deems worthy of using said information for whatever reason the government deems worthy.....and said dealership has no interest or right to where or who that information is going, or for what purpose it is used. a little too much like socialism or comunism to me. how far is the government gonna get involved in free enterprise, or our private business sector?

ya a yj bumper is a solid piece of c channel bolted to a full frame. mj....not so much the most important thing is the trans, the owners manual explains how to flat tow. put the t case in nuetral and the trans in park is what i believe it says. the point is you can't have the d shaft spinning without the jeep running cuz the transmission fluid pump is not pumping fluid and it will burn up if it is spinning.

umm, how do you spin that?

holy crap, someone tried to tell me that yesterday, i had no idea what they were talking about. i like when he says "i can see the tzars that are in place"

it can cause problems for a few reasons, first of all the thermostat closing keeps the coolant in the radiator longer so it can be cooled. when its open all the time or missing, under extreme conditions, the coolant doesn't spend enough time in the radiator to get cooled. also on fuel injected engines they are designed to operate at a given temperature. it is not as crucial on the renix engines, but later jeep models, and all cars for that matter will have problems without the thermostat in and working properly. i've had to replace thermostats people have put in that were colder temp stats, it has caused check engine lights, and failed emissions. if the computer sees it not reaching the desired temp it isn't happy. also post renix jeeps run at 210 for emissions reasons also, they can fail emissions if they engine doesn't reach operating temp.

AND if you ask for a blemish battery at the interstate place, you get the same good battery, in a re-furbed case, for only $23 bucks. I think they only carry a 30 day warranty, but hey, its a friggin interstate. :brows: Rob L. ya, interstate can only sell them as new for one year. after that they sell them dirt cheap. i am pretty sure walmart, autozone and all will sell batteries as new long after that, they just slap a new round sticker on it that has this month's date on it.

could be air bubbles, it is not good to leave the thermostat out. it does need to be there for several reasons i won't get into unless you need coaxing to put a thermostat in, then by all means i will proceed :smart: :D

po on my mj had the brake lines done, and when they ran the line to the back they probably realized they can't get the proportioning valve anymore, its kinda funny a new line was made and ran all the way back for nothing. i can just picture the poor tech when he got to that point :headpop: anywho, i am rambling. so they simply ran a straight line back without using the valve. it works ok, it seems it acts as though there's a full load all the time. the rears are grabby right at first, i got used to it quickly, and with a full load the brakes are very smooth. remember by design rear brakes engage a split second before the fronts, so without the valve, it gets full pressure, so you just have to ease on the brake for the first few miliseconds of the pedal travel. :thumbsup:

batteries have changed a lot over the last decade. die hard used to be the best, and now its one of the worst, its all i used to buy. i see many batteries and problems with them through the shop, so i have some first hand expereince with different brands. also i used to, as someone said, buy the biggest strongest battery i could fit. not a good idea in most regular cars these days, if you have an oversized battery, it isn't being used to its capacity, and it will actually have a shortened life. i would use this same logic to optima, i've only installed a couple, and know a couple people that use them. they are designed for harsher conditions, and extended draws and recharges. in a little car, it is not gonna last most likely, or it will last as long as a $80 interstate will, which is good, but does it justify the cost? back to brands, the only battery i can suggest is interstate. in the last decade of working in shops that install only interstate, i can count on one hand how many have failed under warranty, and thats now a 6 yr warranty. they are the best battery around for normal use. i have heard good things about delco though also. so my advice is buy the interstate battery designated for your wind up car :yes:

i have checked this also. the wiring on this thing is whacked from the factory. i have the schematics, and i have found factory splices in the harness to check them. there is a factory splice for ignition power all coming together and it feeds the fuel pump, a/c clutch and a couple others that are powered up at the wrong time. same with some grounds, i pulled the harness apart to find them, and they are fine. its amazing, they didn't solder them from the factory, just clamped them together, and duct taped them. and it is factory, i've seen on the other harness i took apart to, undisturbed till i got to it, factory duct tape and wires just clamped together :nuts: thanks again everyone, keep the ideas coming. i've been hanging with the family all day so i'm going at it again tomorrow.

:rotf: :clapping:

i did check the ground straps and made sure the engine and body grounds were good.

pretty cool, i know a guy that is building a cj-6

it had to get hit hard. i can't see what happened on the front, but you have to be careful of xj 4.0's hit in the front. if you've ever had the water pump off, you see cylinder 1 is very close to the front, its very easy to have damage to the motor in a front collision. also what good is the interior for you in that one, air bags deployed and all.?

i like the chromed out recover points :yes:

i'm 99.99 percent sure. it was very straight forward, and i just removed a harness from an mj being parted out, and i had the whole headlight harness to match it up to. the larger red wire was a constant power for the fog light relay. and the green/black tracer is the switch signal. that was all. and like i said, i undid that stuff first so it was back to normal till i figure this out.

This makes PERFECT sence. Turning the ignition/headlights/tailights/etc on increases the number of loads looking for that ground (that isn't there). If you connected a regular test light from the battery (-) to that ground point, the light would glow brighter & brighter as you increased the loads looking for that ground. Somehow, when you did the work, and/or replaced that bad wire, you must have disconnected the ground feeding that point. Check your (-) to body connection (should be a jumper to the engine), or even just temporarily jump the (-) terminal to the body. i will jump the ground to make for sure. but i'm thinking the same about your last statement, i think i lost a ground on accident when doing this. thanks for the help. its alwasy good to bounce ideas around

i think it is weird fuses aren't blowing, then at least i'd have a circuit narrowed down. i have an automotive test tool called a power probe. it hooks up to both sides of the battery, and it will show what you are testing if its power or ground, without constantly changing test points. i've back probed every ground in the cab, and they do not have a good ground with key off and so on, and get power with key on, brake pedal, headlight switch. i agree about the bad grounds in series, it is gonna find the path of least resistance, and looking at the diagrams, the factory really did some weird stuff with what circuits are shared, even factory spliced ignition power. thanks for the help, i didn't think about tailights, and grounds there. i'll look there to, i just can't believe its not something i did, but strange things happen on cars, but you gotta go where you were when something like this happens.

thats correct, so it is very hard to beieve its a coincidence. i went over the two wires i spliced, and also removed them. the two wires are there on the engine harness by the air box for the fog lights, the headlight harness just doesn't pick them up if the truck didn't have the option.

250-300 is pretty normal right now. i just bid on one on ebay that went for 280, i wasn't going higher than 250. most of them have to be regeared anyway, theres another few hundred dollars just in parts.

oh yeah, also checked all the fusible links at the ignition relay.