jpdocdave

pins on the headbolts hold the valve cover gasket in place must be a 97 and up thing, i've done many and can't remember that though.

i just went out and looked at my 96 xj but thats the side under the valve cover. all the heads and valve covers i've done on them i can't remember seeing that, and i can't think of a reason right now why it mattes where they go.

score

right, the pulley itself gets reused, but the bearing and flange the pulley bolts to is part of the pump obviously. thats usually whats bad. keep in mind overtightening the belt will cause bearings to fail prematurely.

:agree: i've seen tons of guys take them back off because of how dirty their oil and throttle bodies were getting.

I didn't check the pulleys this time but when I put the waterpump on I checked all the pulleys. I'm pretty sure they were all good. It's not a new waterpump pulley, I don't think they sell new ones. Yes it is good and tight. the water pump looked newer to me, and i thought you said you replaced the water pump. obviously the pulley is replaced as a unit with the water pump all as one. not serperate.

anywhere, 100% waste.

when you had the belt off did you check all the other pullies for play? you need a new belt also, that one was all worn on the inside, but that probably won't be the only thing causing that noise. that new water pump pulley is tight? there's been plenty of bad parts out of the box

it has nothing to do with the injector itself if its not getting power to it. this is a really weird one since you say the wiring is good, if just one isn't firing i'd have said its a pinched wire for it somewhere. the sensors that can effect the injector pulse will effect them all, such as a bad crank sensor, you won't have pulse on any injectors. it may be the signal from the pcm for that injector. its possibly a bad computer.

looks like idler is no good

the only part i didn't like was how much bigger the tube w/ the yoke of the drive shaft was than the dom tubing, there looked to be at least an 1/8" all the way around. maybe thats fine, but i would've found a tube with a snug fit.

besides, that spacer is better used as a paper weight, or a door stop. worthless in a normal fuel injected engine. carbed motor, crazy compression huge manifolds race engine, ok.

sounds like this noise has been going on for a while, i wouldn't keep putting it off too much longer, if it is in the rear end you wanna catch it asap, replacing bearings is a lot cheaper and easier than ring and pinions and/or housing. i think you got too freaked by that heater valve. tons of vehicles have them, not just older jeeps. they are cheap to replace when they go bad, and if you pay attention i'd say almost everytime you'll notice a small leak before they blow out. i've had two that way. honestly, thats the first time i've seen one just completely blow out without warning. on my 96 xj i saw the small leak and put it off for a week before replacing, and that didn't happen.

did that radio have the amc logo on it? i don't think my 90 has that, and the radio is from an 89 or so, thats cool, i'd keep it there.

ahhh, priorities. fog lights before bearings :rotfl2: just joking, let us know how those work to, and let me know what you find with the bearing noise.

it says front left sliding window, and rear sliding window, no right side unless i missed it. get a sawzall and make it to the build sheet brotha, gotta have it original. :yes:

i wondered that also. wade, you better get on that to make this a correct resto :fs1:

well, my first thought was front hub bearing. you gotta make sure its not just traveling. try swerving from right to left while driving, this transfers the load from one side to the other and will make hub bearings change noises. if it changes noises you may be able to locate it better. pinion bearings are very common, but "usually" will change with drive line load, so if you put it in nuetral while driving they usually quiet down if its pinino bearings. never ever heard a rear outer wheel bearing make noise yet, but its possible. here would be my first step after driving it. put the rear axle on jack stands securely. have a partner put it in gear and slowly give it gas till you reach about 35 mph or so on the speedo. listen to the rear diff, you can also put a screwdriver to the cover and to your ear. little noise is normal, if its as loud as you're saying if you put a screwdriver to your ear on the cover you will not mistake it if its coming from there. please don't kill yourself by following my adivce, :smart: only do this if your comforatable jacking a vehicle. use two heavy jack stands, not no little 2 ton or so crap. chock the front wheels, and shake the truck to make sure its secure before you get under it.

Flywheel/Converter Housing Bolts 38 Nm (28 ft. lbs.) Flywheel/Flexplate 142 Nm (105 ft. lbs.) i think you want this one, not the housing spec Manifolds 24 ft/lbs sorry it took so long, couldn't get to the computer at work all day.

it would kinda help to know what we're working on :thumbsup: engine and trans?

:clapping: :clapping: i did an S10 4.3 intake last week and a z71 5.7 intake this week, i'll add onto your list some 5.3 common failures. the a/c drive-belt that everyone misses when they do a serp.belt? :nuts: and waterpumps. oh! and how about monte-carlo and malibu gauge clusters. AND don't forget anything that sports the word cadillac. ya: "my belt squeaks but it just got replaced" :dunno: don't even start on malibuboos.

:dunce: got this back from chrysler today. Dear Wade: Thank you for contacting the Chrysler Customer Assistance Center requesting for the build sheet of your 1992 Jeep Comanche. In response to your recent email, we are glad to provide the vehicle build information as per your request. As per our records, your 1992 Jeep Comanche (VIN: NL223002) was equipped from the factory with the following: Cloth Low-Back Bucket Seats Light Group Skid Plate Group Monotone Paint Radio AM/FM Cassette 90 Amp Alternator 500 Amp Maintenance Free Battery Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes Low Back Bucket Seats Reclining Front Seats Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area Full Length Floor Console All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions 4-Speed Automatic AW4 Transmission Lock-Up Torque Converter Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System Floor Mount Automatic Shift Lever Dana M30/181MM Front Axle 3.55 Axle Ratio 175MM Rear Axle 4.0L Power Tech I-6 Engine Tinted Glass Windows Tinted Windshield Glass Front Door Tinted Glass Front Left Side Sliding Window Rear Sliding Window Left Remote Mirror Right Remote Control Mirror Manual Remote Mirrors Air Conditioning Instrument Cluster w/Tach 85 MPH Primary Speedometer Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers Cigar Lighter STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING Headlamps On Warning Chimes Courtesy Lamps Glove Box Lamp Ash Tray Lamp Cigar Lighter Underhood Lamp Headlamp Off Time Delay Halogen Headlamps Fog Lamps Black Front Bumper Black Front Bumper Front Bumper Guards Front License Plate Bracket Body Color Grille Black Windshield Moldings Upper Door Frame Moldings Belt Moldings Body Color Drip Trough Molding Federal Emissions EVAP Control System 18.5 Gallon Fuel Tank Speed Control Hunter Green Metallic Hunter Green Metallic Clear CoatAll Radio Equipped Vehicles AM/FM Cassette Radio 4 Speakers Power Rack and Pinion Steering Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel Standard Duty Shock Absorbers Rear Shock Absorbers Tilt Steering Column Full Size Spare Tire Tire Carrier Winch P225/75R15 OWL Wrangler AT Tires Goodyear Brand Tires 15X7 Aluminum Wheels All Aluminum Wheels Pickup Box Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications GVW/Payload Rating :rotf:

so the right side window regulators i have laying around are worth something huh? i figure being the same for an xj front door they shouldn't be that pricey.

ya, i'm with ya, i'm fine with the simple manual windows. you can't just buy the regulator in the aftermarket?

it can be done, people do it. if you want the easier way out, swap the manual crank window regulators from your old doors along with the panel.