Timmaay

What are the actual benefits of running a high capacity oil filter? More oil in the system? Greater dirt holding capacity? Seems with regular oil change intervals a bigger filter is not necessary. :dunno:

How long is the temp lead? Long enough to go from the dash to say, the front bumper?

Or the gauge could be reading low...But you still have a good bit of variance between cylinders anyhow.

I had this same problem too. My solution was to add a very thin spacer between the end of the rod and the switch. I used a thin strip of a soup can, just fold the edges around the ends of the switch and it will stay put. My brake lights come on with the slightest touch of the pedal.

Welcome to the site! Here is a link to a site with a diagram of the front end parts and how to do a diy alignment too. http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html As far as searching goes I like to use just a few key words only. Such as "tow points" Then in the top right corner there is a box that allows you to search for something else within the results to further narrow down your search. Also feel free to post up some pictures and an introduction in the "introduce your comanche thread" viewtopic.php?f=3&t=15

I cleaned up the axle, changed the fluid, and made sure that the vent was clear (it was). I'll keep an eye out for potential leaks, but I think that it's good to go for a while. Thanks guys.

It has to be the pinion seal or the cover gasket. There are no seals in the axles at the housing -- the axle seals are at the outer ends, at the hubs. The outer ends on both sides in your photo are dry. It's certainly not the pinion seal, that entire area is completely dry and grease free. The axle tubes are pressed into the housing and welded all the way around right? So it's not possible to be leaking there correct?

Thanks for the replies guys. The pinion seal is totally dry, no seepage at all. Any other ideas?

I want to replace the fluid in the diff and since it's open I might as well and try to fix this leak. Which seal(s) do you guys think are leaking in this picture? Yes I know the load sensing rod is in the wrong position. This pic is old.

:bowdown: :bowdown: We need more pictures!!

So I got the replacement booster in and the brakes are silent! And I got the brake lights to be very sensitive :thumbsup: They come on with the slightest touch of the pedal. :D I really hope I don't have to do that again any time soon. :thwak: You seriously have to be a freakin contortionist to work on anything under the dash like that.

Ehh I was afraid you guys might say that. Now I need to shop for a replacement and then modify the rod, again. :wall:

I found the problem but I don't know why it's doing what it's doing. What's happening is that when you step on the brake pedal with a little force and then mash it real quick the booster honks just like a goose! What seems to be going on is that the two halves of the booster are separating a little bit when you apply the extra force. You can see the master cylinder get pushed out. I'm not sure if it's the two metal halves of the booster sliding by each other causing the noise or if it's the rubber diaphragm vibrating. The two halves are not supposed to move are they?? A couple tack welds should solve the problem right?

I have now determined that the noise is in fact not coming from under the dash but from the booster or master cylinder itself. The noise which sounds more like a honk than a squeak when you listen to it with the hood open.

Ok I'll give that a shot. Thanks.