jpdocdave

couldn't you get a u joint that adapts to that flange and then bolt it on? just like a 1310 to a 1330 u joint. i've never done it, good point.

front d shaft is a good way to go, it may need to be shortened, i don't remember.

:fs1: gosh, who let this guy in? what do you think this is, vw forum, man what a jerk. what a stupid question to, lets bash him. :mad: :clapping: just so you could feel at home :yes: anyway, i'd take that filter off and make sure its not too restrictive, they have different micron ratings, and one off the shelf may have been too fine for this precision machine. :D after that if everything is clean, and its a mechanical pump i'd say replace it. not sure how well you'd do rebuilding, they are simple but annoying. rebuilding yours would be cheap, but if you do something wrong, you will be scratching your head thinking, is it a different problem, or is it still the pump :hmm:

all i'm saying is try to keep it where it is, no need in going in many directions. keep it on this forum where people are out parts, thats the topic right now. i'm not, and won't defend these actions, i know the guy and i was shocked last time and this time, all my expereince is he's a good guy. i said it last time, and its harder to say this time but i'm sure he'll straighten it out.

very nice, good work. i'd say paint those fender flares with krylon fusion though, that would look even better having those back to jet black.

what does that link have to do with anything now, it has nothing to do with selling parts, or members of a board, so unless you know him personally you have no clue about anything in that link. i don't condone ripping people off, and i'm not involved so i am staying out of it, but there's no reason for people to jump on a wagon and bash someone.

no, those orange wires going to the white thing is a ballist resistor for your fuel pump, leave that alone. make sure you get the right red wire, the one i used dead ended right there, and on the fog light equipped harness thats the only thing it was there for, so on the engine side it is a dead end. i'd say use a self tapping screw and make a ground on the fender, i had all sorts of weird ground issues right after i did mine, and it was all just from a weak body ground.

good, thanks for posting the fix, i guess that confirms i wasn't crazy that the vacuum is supplied by the engine.

yep, that is the connector, the green/black tracer wire is the power from the switch, the wiring is in the cab for the switch already also. i don't know of any connector you can use to piggy back, if i had it to do again i would've just installed the complete headlight harness that had the fog lights on it. you can do what you said basically, splice the power and switch wire from the connector, supply a ground, and the other wire from the relay powers the fog lights. there's a red wire, and the green/black wire that are at that 10 pin connector just for fog lights, they dead end there, so splicing them from that harness is fine.

on mine i ended up getting my hands on a factory headlight harness all wired for the fog lights.

you suck, i sent my request sooner and still haven't gotten a response. did you specifically ask for where it sat in production numbers? i did ask that in my email, i'll bet i just get a build sheet back though.

bad machining off the start probably. every company is gonna have some flaws in manufacturing, especially these days. i hope that doesn't become a trend.

i could be wrong to, i have been lucky enough to avoid that stupid system most of my life. my jeeps that have it have always worked. but i thought i've heard of people taking it out of play, and leaving a vacuum line open off the engine.

that sucks, i wonder if someone tried to install it on an ho 4.0, it will thread on and actually tighten, but the threads are different, possibly how the threads got damaged, i made that mistake years ago, but the other way around, put an ho filter on a renix, it will go on, somehow i saw the box and thought, this part number doesn't look right before i actually started it.

crank sensor is usually a no start, or stutters then dies w/ a no start for a short time. and it difenatly could be a vacuum leak, especially at low rpms are when they show up, i've never heard of the disconnect using t case vacuum. it usually runs right to a vacuum canister that is supplied by the engine vacuum in my expereince, and if there is an open vacuum line from there it can cause this sort of problem. if those vacuum lines are just hangin still, to make it simple just plug them all up, and see if it helps.

nice choice, can't wait for the resto thread. what are you going with, restore o.e, or modified?

i thought that at first also. the lever is in 2wd but the part time light is on the info display. its funny how they always say there's some problem.....but it should be easy to fix.......so how come its not fixed?

You can find the delay module on many Cherokees. As in the picture above, it's attached under the dash on the driver's side. Also get the blue chime module that will let you know if you left the lights on. See this post for more details viewtopic.php?f=4&t=12465 ugh, hate the chime and i hate the delay module. i like simple, and i hate hearing buzzers. if you're dumb enough to leave your lights on, you will deal with it in the morining. :fool:

maybe its the ball joints, idler arms, pitman arms, intake leaks, and fuel pumps that are on time clocks that are guaranteed to fail :rotf: chevy's help keep me busy :yes: but honestly next to jeep they are good vehicles for the most part, i hate working on ford.

thats where my email went, maybe i'll hear soon. :grrrr:

yup, a couple around here still in service, i think the fire department has one to.

the d300 is one of the strongest t cases around, a couple are stronger, but also a lot bigger. its a great jeep t case. all cast iron, gear driven, and simple. you won't ever have a problem with it. it can be twin sticked also. if you are going to wheel with it you may wanna drop the dough on a 4:1 gear set. it is a hair higher gear than the np231. somewhere around 2.7:1 if i remember right. there are people that are flipping them without buying kits at all for next to no money. search the web you should be able to do it yourself.

good news is your floors look very clean :banana:

i emailed them. and you got a response that fast, i emailed them before you did and i haven't heard yet. maybe i sent mine to the wrong place, there were a lot of different ways to email those yahoos

if its a headlight harness that plugs in to the harness right after the balllist then it should be, its a 10 pin connector, if it had fog lights you can use that harness. that harness will have a relay for the fog lights in it. my opinion is make sure it all matches and just install that harness, instead of taking the fog light part out and splicing it into your truck. thats what i did and i kinda wish i just took the time to swap harnesses.