64 Cheyenne

I remember that pic and I think it was...an 88

M88 recovery vehicle....

don't know how to read it (build sheet) but do know it is kind of like your trucks birth certificate, kind of nostalgic, don't lose it.

If it was me, based on past issues, I would insist on looking at the set up (pattern) before it was buttoned up.

This sounds like a good idea, got any pics? On another serious note concerning the magnets, do not let little kids play with these ever. If the magnets get ingested they can attach across the walls of the stomach or intestines, how do I know? When my daughter was about 8yrs old she thought they would make cute nose jewelry, she had them across her septum, took 2 doctors and 2 nurses to hold her down to get them out. I know off topic, but when it comes to these magnets, please don't let your little kids play with them...

Press, dial indicator, calipers, torque wrench ft/lb and in/lb, bearing separator. and $$$$$$$$ Really not for the novice or faint of heart, but if your willin...thats how I learned.

Holy cow! How could they have verified pinion depth, or bearing preload, with no shims? Damage? I hope you raised a real stink and got compensation or somethin for it. What if it went to hell on the highway, things could have gotten ugly... Not sayin it would have locked up, probably wouldn't have, but who's to say?

If you can make ends meet, being your own boss...priceless.

Paid a $100 bucks for this: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17699 Jokingly, I told my friend I would take 3K for it, he asked me if I would take a check. Paid $500 for this one:http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=13953 guy even packed it home for me for an extra $150. 460 mi round trip. Really, if I was to sell the Chief (not going to) I think a fair price would be about $2500.

Sounds like a good candidate to test your bargaining skills, if it is decent shape with "a few electrical issues) I'd use the issues to bargain with. Sounds like a $1500 dollar truck on a good day. The "not shutting off" could be the ignition switch on the lower part of the steering column, the turn signals could be a ground issue or as is most common our trucks, the front turn signal sockets need to be replaced (not recommended to clean them as replacement is easier and works better)

I don't think the threat of a lawsuit is the reason. I think that when they see something crappy and or junky they figure the guy driving it doesn't give a damn and would just as soon hit them as look at them. Also likely true. I see people in crap,cars as being trashy low life's. It's one thing to be rusty or old, but some cars just give you straight up insight as to what kind of scum are behind the wheel. I don't think this is a fair statement. I was a parking lot the other day in my S10, some guy backs out runs into the rear quarter of my truck, minimal damage. The guy looks at me, my truck sees we're both old and thinks he should be able to just call it good because my truck is old and ugly. What I did is another story, that I regret because I was being a nice guy and BTW, I do/did have insurance at the time. My point is, sometimes people drive what they do because it is what they can. That guy stereotyped me, made me feel that me and my truck were insignificant, below him and did not matter. Now some might say the Chief is crappy because its old, but it is the only vehicle around here that was not stuck this last weekend. So now because I drive crappy looking trucks, I think people might think I'm scum? Reality is I'm a single parent, college student, don't drink or do drugs, my truck is old because its what I can afford. You never know, that guy you think is scum because of what he drives, maybe his wife left him, took all he had, maybe she died, leaving him with kids all alone, or the single mom whose deadbeat uined her credit and she can't afford a nice car. So what I'm saying is it really fair to judge somebody by what they drive without walking a mile in their shoes.... I should have took that guy to court...I'm too nice, I had him give me $20, dinner for me and my daughter. Now whos scum, me for my appearance, or the guy who I should have taken to court? In retrospect, I bet he did not have insurance.

I'm no expert, but I have set up 4 sets of ring&pinion in my back yard, NONE of them have ANY visible in and out movement. Think about it, any play would allow the pinion to contact the ring gear heal-toe back and forth. Not good. Granted my lock-right in my 30 has play, but that is inherent to the locker, not the set up of the ring and pinion. FWIW, 2 sets I did (R&P) 1 still running strong, three years later (88 Chief), the other set put together not run yet. Build in progress (87 Sportruck).

http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/

Did you try a NEW lock ring and O-ring?

If your talking about putting a sealant like RVT on where the fuel pump mounts (sender cage) I say don't do it. It didn't come from the factory using RTV "to keep gas in" suggest you not try doing it. Sounds like you have a problem with the lock ring and gasket, Napa sells the lock ring and O-ring together, search for a Cherokee lock ring and gasket (about $6 bucks). If a new lock ring and gasket(O-ring) isn't the fix, you might have a leak where the pressure and return lines enter the sender unit. again, RTV is a real bad idea, there are places where you might get your sender cage repaired, or if not suggest you start searching. Search is your friend, think there is a write up of a sender repair in the DIY...

This was on CL....I question its appropriatness which is why I only posted a link to my Pbucket Caution lol

Pump twice...two squirts, put to floor and release (set choke) crank... or whatever you need to do in your start ritual. Old carb, old tech, old starting techniques. My old falcon with a straight six, even think/try the choke above say 30 degrees and it won't start, below 30, pull choke, when engine spits, give it half choke, purrs like a kitten. Just takes a little gettin used to.

I'm curious, whats a better way then? Weld all the way around? My JCR sliders bolt on, the frame side and pinch. can't really comment on their mounting as they have been in que (parts pile)for the last three years to go on the 87.

Get a cigar blow smoke into vacuum lines, see where it comes out (smoke)

With a carb...same thing as applying the choke...richens up the fuel air mixture. Did you ever try to "set the choke" before you start it? Push pedal to floor release it before starting, if the choke is adjusted properly, should start and run without too much fuss. Sometimes if you touched the pedal it releases the "set", so just put it to the floor again...release...try to start it. So is it bad?, not really, just does the same thing the choke is supposed to do if it was working properly. And as said before, on an injected engine doesn't really do any good (or harm) as there isn't an accelerator pump to squirt extra fuel into the motor.

Got a link to a web site?

From where, how much are they, and are there any more?

If you don't tie into the pinch seam, when you do hit the rock, it'll twist the frame side all to heck, equally as bad The pinch seam is one of the strongest points on the cab, properly tied into it and you should be able to handyman jack from the side, now do you really want that 3/8" space to allow flex at the unibody rail tie in? Believe me you'll flip the truck over before you bend that point (reinforced/tied in)

If I was home I'd have a set of 3.07 gears to you for the cost of shipping. But alas, I'm nearly 500 mi away from home at school. sorry

Quality techs get paid well, stay employed in the same location longer.