64 Cheyenne

Whatever brand you choose is your choice, my suggestion is to make sure you buy a group 34/78 battery regardless what the parts geek tells you. Chances are that he will to try and spec a group 58 battery, which is what stock might call for (anybody?) but when you look at the battery tray with a group 58 battery you will see a whole lot more room for a bigger battery, and a bigger battery = well you know it only goes to say....

:agree:

don't forget the body side Tcase bracket, you WILL need it. Second the suggestion on pulling the sending units, even if for spares.

drill a hole in it then, maybe weld a washer to it as a bushing or maybe the hardware store might have some sort of bushing.

Said it time and again.... When doing a BA-10 to AX-15 or 2wd to 4wd, You need to grab EVERYTHING, the body side bracket is specific to the AX-15 The hole will be towards the rear, right where you need it to be. If I'm grabbing this from a wrecked Jeep, i use a utility knife to cut the carpet to get the four bolts out.

This is cool. I have a stock 2dr XJ, 2 lifted MJs, and a dropped S-10. I can so totally relate. I really like the pic of the MJ between the XJ and the fullsize. Thats exactly how my S-10 looks in perspective to a fullsize. Cool... GLWS

:agree: :thumbsup:

Clutch = 50% probability that you won't have to let your GF or whatever drive or probability that you WILL have to teach her to drive a stick :wall:

Put a squirt of oil in the cylinder before ea test, should cause pressures to raise and might see more differences.

Only thing is, the water has to go SOMEWHERE. I suspect a non protected area, gamble on getting spray EVERYWHERE.

Did a little more searching, general consensus is that there is movement in one of the shafts causing it to pop out of gear. I'm kind of leaning towards a bad input shaft bearing.

A friend swapped a JY AX-15 into his MJ. Now when he takes off in first, it pops out of gear, then if you hold it there it stays in gear when you try to take off again. If you go from Rev to 1st while still rolling it will stay in gear when you take off in 1st. If you put it into first while you are still rolling before coming to a stop at a light it stays in gear when you take off again. We drained all the oil, only about a quart in it, and refilled with 30 wt syn, all other gears shift fine. Bad first gear synchro?

:agree: Used to be common back in the day. Kind of like these http://www.ebay.com/itm/BULLET-STYLE-7-16-LUG-NUTS-MAG-SHANK-W-WASHERS-CRAGAR-SS-WESTERN-SET-OF-20-/130936198764?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7c67d66c&vxp=mtr I'd run em

I bought from this seller, they have many different styles in their store. I would and do plan on purchasing from them again. http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-BULLET-ACORN-LUG-NUTS-1-2-20-FORD-MUSTANG-DODGE-5-LUG-5-ON-5-CHEVY-TRUCK-/251302927051?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a82d25acb&vxp=mtr

Gotta be a typo EVERYBODDDYYY....knows V6s only came in 86.....duh.... just kiddin...lol

First clean the dome light contacts, wires and bulb contacts. The light grounds through the door switches, take one of the door switches out and ground it, see if the light comes on. Are the switches swiveled to the correct position? Should be down for the light to come on with the door open.

You need a new pressure bottle. The cap needs to fit TIGHT, no leaks If there is no pressure in the system (or any leaks for that matter), then the coolant "boils"at a lower pressure. You can't Jerry rig a pressure bottle it needs to be converted or replaced. Search "closed to open cooling system conversion" http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-88-89-90-JEEP-CHEROKEE-COOLANT-BOTTLE-RESERVOIR-TANK-/350732444581?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1989|Model%3ACherokee&hash=item51a94863a5&vxp=mtr Before it goes much further, you should probably state year and engine to make sure the pressure bottle is where to start. As stated above there can be many contributing factors, but the bottle is where I would start if it has one.

Yup, shims behind lower rear control arm mount.

I have to say I disagree with "The ball joints were too tight." When a vehicle fails to "return to center" I myself would check that it has enough "caster"

Mounts behind the L tail light, if no go, jump the resistor on the left fender in front of the air box. Or check that there is juice to the resistor first...

Looks good, probably one of the better ones out there. :thumbsup:

It aint even august yet... My neck of the woods its currently 88*f

Only thing that would have stopped me from stopping and banging on the guys door to talk to him would have been if I went by at about 90 mph with 5 or 6 police cars behind me in hot pursuit . :MJ 1: .

Bracket bolted through that channel horizontally. Possibly fab a u shaped bracket.

I never said that...