64 Cheyenne

Got a lot of nice stuff on it, if it does not have floors rusted out and bedsides rusted from the inside as stated earlier, I would try talk him down to 3500 call it good.If there is rustout, id talk him down more. Id look especially well under the floor under where the drivers and passengers footwells are. Let us know, keep us posted what he says. :thumbsup:

If no fluid loss anywhere, I agree with replacing the master cylinder.

2. front of the bellhousing - holds the inspection cover on. 3. bottom left bellhousing where you replaced one of the bolts, supports the tailpipe. 4. I think you are right. last, the vent attaches through a bolt upper right side of bellhousing.

You mean transfercase?

Ya can't just take the tail housing off of your tranny...won't work, mainshaft is too long period. You have to have a tranny that is specifically in front of a TC. Suggest you source them together so there is no issues.

Just don't forget to put the fitting on the line before you flare it...ask me how I know.

First off, making proper flares aint always easy. Suggest you practice on a scrap of tube before you do the one for the money. Main thing I learned with the cheap tool was to get rid of the wing nuts, tighten the nut closest to the flair first, then the farthest, makes for a good tight hold. Make sure the depth is proper, and make sure the body of the tool is flush with the other side. This is the tool I use: http://www.harborfreight.com/double-tube-flaring-tool-kit-66534.html Take a look at this video:

Jim, that means 3.73 ratio, limited slip.

:agree: Start here. Then check voltage across battery with a voltmeter not running, then running. I usually only see 13 + volts on mine.

I see LSD, clarification.... Is that for the front? But then it says both Spartin... Either way if I was to buy them for a fair price I would start about $400 to $500 for the front because of the Spartin and regear. For the back I'd say $5oo to $600 because of the Spartin, regear and the fab to set up for the regear. Package deal $900 to $1K. This is what I think would be a fair deal. Mainly cost of the lockers, regear, and fab for the 8.8 Some might think this is low and it might be, but as many know, that regardless of how much money we put in these Jeeps were we to sell them, we never get = the same amount what we got into them. If you want more, then you could probably get more selling the axles local, if you want money sooner part them and get money right now on line. Still get +/- $1K Really depends if Spartins are in both axles.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/38510-wtb-ax-15-transfer-case-shifter-linkage-mount-mobile-al/

Is the strip separated? If not then make sure ALL the bulbs are good, me when I have a cluster out for the first time, I replace ALL the bulbs with new so there are no questions. Then I tighten the contacts on all the socket plugs by tweaking them a little bit to press against the contact strip a little tighter. Then I tweak the main harness plugs to fit a little tighter the same way. If the foil is separated, I'd get a replacement cluster from an XJ etc. Not sure but I think the foil from a cluster with idiot lights might be the same as with gauges, you could probably get one of these pretty cheap if not free. If I had one of these I would just give it to you for the cost of shipping if even that. I do not think I have one, I'd have to look, but I doubt it.

I used the tool that does the double flare, just did the first stage, same as a bubble flare. Been in service on the Chief, going on three years now.

Its homemade, has factory flare on top of the bed.. Don't know what it was made out of or where it came from never really spent any time really looking around it. Metal is pretty thick, can't wait to put springs, tires and fenders on it. Plan on making the tongue a little longer for the Jerry can mount and storage box that will be going on. Got many ideas just so little time before we move.

This is cool, I like this. Kind of doubt that this is really feasible though as you would exceed the truck carrying capacity rather quickly. I think our trucks are for medium hauling, anything more (dump bed action size) makes me think you should use a bigger truck.

Hook vacuum gauge to manifold. Blip throttle. Good cat, vacuum gauge drops immediately. Bad cat, vacuum gauge drops slow.

Check this out, part way down the page. http://comancheclub.com/topic/7477-a-list-of-links-for-info/

I actually like the stock TC skid, it is small, light weight and easy enough to remove. All you need is something between the case and a rock which absorbs impact which the stock one does nicely. Besides, other aftermarket ones might do more, but at increased weight, hassle for service, and might hang lower sacrificing ground clearance. If you don't like the stock skid I'd buy it from you if you want to sell it.

So your sayin that that if your going down hill at 2000 rpm, you take your foot off of the gas, the throttle butterfly closes and your still flowing fuel? Carburetor yes injectors no, thats why there is a TPS or it would keep feedin fuel.

:agree:

Why? Because you can, if you want. I think to keep the correct lines you would have to raise the floor of the bed to make room for structural and mechanical.

I would have killed for a 18mm 6pt 1/2" drive socket to get an oddball lug nut off today, glad my friend let me use his shop today to get it off, thank you George.

Rockauto.com and here on the club, wanted section. and welcome to the club.

Front, TC, gas tank?

Picked this up today, probably won't get to work on it for a while as were getting ready to move to Missoula. Starting my bachelors program in the fall. It doesn't have any leaf springs yet, has a nice drop gate on the end, needs a lot of work, fenders, floor... Best of all it was FREE! BTW, you can see it hooked up to the Chief, to the JCR bumper that caused all the stink. Haven't had any problems towing anything with it even with the drop hitch. Yup no lights, safety chains or plates, on the rez, you don't need them. It will have all of them when I'm done though.