64 Cheyenne

I get all my parts from Napa, I can't afford dealership parts. This^^^ Chinese Replacement Auto Parts = CRAP Sorry

Two years ago, went out started the Chief let it warm up, came back out ready to go, cab was full of smoke... Lucky didnt actually catch fire, thank god. Cleaned the mice nests out of the heater box, ducts, and replaced the resistor. New SOP for all of my stored toys, I put moth balls in old socks and put them in strategic locations in the vehicle, under the heater outlet, seats and in the engine compartment. Why engine compartment, I had some massive bird nests in one of my XJs that didnt have front cowl. When I need to get it out, I remove the moth balls and let it air out a day or two before I use it, I know it's stinky but better than doing a clean out or dealing with a fire.

What does this have to do with changing a TOB? Internal slave or not, plastic or metal slave, the tranny still needs to be pulled to replace TOB.

Ahhhhhhh I see.... Thanks for the clarification

Could somebody expand on this? If my understanding is correct, your using a resistor with a set known value to check against the output value of the sender, to more or less calibrate the sender? Where and how is the resistor wired to test? And once satisfied with the results, does a person ever need to bend the float arm or otherwise change the orientation level of the float in the tank to read more or less true readings?

"What what what, keeps the @$$ from sliding around"...

The web site: http://www.jimmijammer.com/GK%20Model%20list.htm But which one did you purchase as there is no listing for our trucks?

"FI not even connected" and "LPG only from now on" are we missing something here?

Smoke test to find the leak. Have a smoker blow smoke into a vac line....look for leaks.

They also cut down draft from the openings in the panel.

I'll take my tester, but my guess is there won't be any. Gut feeling is the pump isn't running for some reason. It's a very minor hit and I'm surprised that anything mechanical would be left not working, but that is how it goes. You don't need a tester to tell if you have pressure, just take the cap off the port, press the schraeder valve...

I took heavy black construction grade plastic (slang-visqueen), 3M spray adhesive on the edges, cut out where needed, easily opened,repaired, or replaced if needed.

Fuel pressure at the rail?

Dimmable?

Not sure what year or model they came from, I just wanted to comment that I like your plan of just swapping the covers, doing that allows you to make sure you are using good unbroke seat pans. I always like the idea of "rebuilding" seats if needed, instead of just swapping (unless the seats are pristine of course).

How can you tell it's a non AC? The dash looks like it has it and the guy said the AC needed recharged. Is he just feeding me bs? Sorry I'm completely new to mj's so bear with my incompetence. Just looked at the pics, and yup, "260 AC", dash controls have no "AC" settings. Sorry, didnt fully read earlier post, looks no AC to me in the pics, Now I gotta go trudge threw the snow to go look at a 91 XJ in the yard...

High and low pressure cut out switches would still need to be in the system, believe they could/would be wired into a simple harness when you powered the system "on". Pretty sure somebody could make a simple schematic on how it could be wired.

My tail,turn, and brake light issues went away when I replaced my front sockets, seems corrosion caused all kinds of current bleed through...

Without being there and doing a proper diagnosis, I'd have to bet on the starter.

If you aint askin questions, you aint participating and you arent learning. And I don't care whether you use "search" or not, just happy to see so many enthusiasts, If having to read repetitive posts is a time waster, don't open the page, don't read it, and what the hell you wasting "YOUR" time here for anways if your time is too precious to read somebodys thread that might be mundane to you, but might be of much importance to the person who really needs help to fix their truck.

I'm skeptical, I put 5oz ea in my 31 10 15 treadrights (TWs), ran like this for (think I had them on about 5yrs), tires suspension steering began to shake. All steering components appear serviceable, Took the truck to have the bbs removed to be replaced with conventional weights, what a joke, had nearly 4oz in one area of the tires.tires shaked even worse. Moral of the story, regardless of what you use bbs or conventional, neither does any good if you don't rotate your tires, often, if they bigger meaty tires. seems lack of proper rotation caused wear in my tires that no amount of machine balance could fix. FWIW the TWs are going on a local use trail rig, and the 88 is getting a new set of TW 33s, (bought a few years ago when TW still sold 33)

My question is, why do you have to remove or open the tank? Is there an issue with it, or are there going to be when your done? Let sleeping dogs lay...? If it was me, I wouldn't be messing with the sender if the sender and pump are still working properly. If you gotta open it up...are you gonna put a NEW MOPAR pump back in it? And a NEW O ring, Mopar has a lock ring and O ring kit I'd suggest you use when you reassemble. And Merry xmas all

Good pics in my 88 build as seen in my sig

If the key turns, the problem is not the lock cylinder. When it's cold, I sometimes have to turn the key back and forth a few times while applying gentle force in the unlock direction until it finally unlocks, might take five or six cycles but I get it open. FWIW, that's how I unlock the passenger side (cold), from the inside, five or six cycles... I suspect that through the years improper lube (regular oil?) or too much has been applied to the latch mechanism, attracted dirt, gummed up, more oil applied, bigger problem. So I'm not really sure how the latch should be serviced (lubed) and with what kind of lube that won't attract dirt? I suspect maybe some kind of a teflon/graphite lube?, my guess is because of the remains of the plastic "slider" that is on both sides of the latch itself. My experience with plastic bushings/slider mechanisms is they need dry lube when serviced. Can the door mechanism be removed and cleaned, I don't know. Before now, I've always heard replacement of the door latch mechanism is the best fix. On another note, did I read somewhere that the rear door latches can be swapped to MJ front because they have less wear and tear on them...? Or was it door checks?

Selective service only provides your name if there is a draft, it does not mean your obligated to serve (imho it should be).