dasbulliwagen

Youll need to be specific as to getting one from a 4.0, as the ones in a 2.5 are different as well, really they are the same as the 86 model ones as the 2.5 and 2.8 used the same radiator. We are talking about the radiator support metal, not the header panel. If you just need a header panel ( the fiberglass part ) you can get one from just about any year and make it work, though I think between 86 and 87 they changed the stud locations that mount the header to the sheetmetal. I can't remember which is which, but one had the studs on the header, and one had the studs on the fender/ core support. My truck has both year parts on it so I cut the studs off one side and drilled the holes needed to mount stuff up.... no big deal really. Now would be a good time to change to a Waggy front end if you like that sort of thing, the headligfht wiring just plugs right up and everything works like its supposed to except with 4 headlights. Good luck on getting her fixed up.

Unless you sell it to jeepcomj, or some like minded person who will appreciate its rarity, I don't see it being appreciated or well treated. And even though it is rare, it isnt collectable and it isnt worth much in real world dollars. I say keep it unless you find someone you KNOW will fix it up right, and treat it like the rare gem it is.

I got a full set from Crown for a YJ, and they work great, are longer than stock for use when lift is added, and they bolted right in. The rear YJ line is not as long as a Dakota rear line, but is longer than the original.

I want to come, but I can't say for sure yet. I have family about 100 miles due west of Pete, so would be good to combine this trip with a visit. I need to work the wife over a little more, and see if theres time to take off work. Ill know more in the next week or two.

I beleive that may have been me, but I'm still not sure if Ill be able to make the trip. I want to, but its kinda looking like it might be a no go. Ill know more in the next week or two.

One of my rims is the same way. As long as the rim isnt bent it will be just fine and should balance out as well, as long as you don't need tp put a weight right there.If I were you, I wouldnt worry about it.

http://www.heavyrebel.net/Home.html Went to the Hevy Rebel Weekender today with a friend. It is basically a Rat Rod show and Rockabilly concert weekend in Winston Salem, North Carolina. Lots of great rods, and hot tatted women! I didnt get any pics of the women, or the mud wrestling pit, but I did get a few of the cars. The show registration page made it very clear that they didnt want any trailer queens, billet rods, pro shop built vehicles, or muscle cars. This made my buddy afraid that they wouldnt let us in in his 46 Studebaker pickup, which isnt a rat rod, but was homebuilt 25 years ago on a 69 Chevy pickup frame and with a Buick 3800 carbed engine and it has shiny paint but is far from a perfect resto vehicle. Anyways, we got up there, and they let us right in with it, and after walking around, it looked like they let ALMOST anybody in if you paid ten bucks. There were a few nice restos there, and a few 60's rides, and we saw one guy in a 68 Camaro come through and get yelled at enough to make him go hide is car in a back part of the show on a side street. But this show was all about the rat rod, and I have a few pics for you below. Caddy with a Cummins 6BT Diesel! One of three Cummins powered rods there.

I did this to mine, but mine is a 4 cylinder and the wiring in the engine compartment is completely different. I swapped the HVAC box, added the compressor and bracketry. Some of the wiring was already there, like the interior wiring for the controls, and the compressor clutch wire, but for the rest of it, there was a connector that was labeled on the factory wiring diagrams as to be used for dealer added AC, so I followed the diagram and made the rest of the needed wiring and relays to properly operate everything. I'm not sure the 4.0 trucks have that same connector or not, as the only one Ive had to look at already had factory AC, but if yours doesnt have AC there might be an unused plug somewhere in there for that purpose. I think mine was a 4 wire plug, with at least a light green wire for the pressure swith, I think an orange wire, and I can't remember what else. Mine was hidden on the driver side over the wheel arch, but I know the factory spot for the 4.0 AC relay is with the relay group on the right side. You might need to do some wiring diagram research to find out exactly how yours needs to be layed out and if there is stuff there already for your setup. Good luck!

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:agree: If you value your MJ at all, you will park it in the winter, like november till april, and get a cheap beater every winter. Thats what I used to do when I had nice VW's when I lived in Michigan. In the late '90's I bought a $300 Ford Maverick for a beater, and on my way home with it as my mother was following behind me, the rear bumper fell OFF. Thats just one example, but that rusty beater would drive me anywhere. A wood plank rear bumper, and I was good again. An XJ beater is a good idea, that way youll have a built in parts donor, and could swap wheels/tires from one to the other if you have a nice set you want to use year round. You could even buy a lifted beater XJ, use it a winter, and transfer all the lift parts to the MJ the next spring, and slowly build your MJ like that. Just some ideas, but don't drive your MJ in the winter up there. You WILL regret it.

This is THE same reason I won't sell my motorcycle.... Theres no way the money I get from it will last till I can buy another. So theres no way I'm selling the one I have till I have another one lined up.... That way Ill never be without, weather I ride it or not!

My 4 light Waggy front came from an 86, I too have wondered what years the 21 slots came from... pretty sure they were a 2 headlight XJ Waggy... just still stumped on the years.

Mine went away after I did a front end alignment, and brought the caster closer to spec. I never had it until I swapped in the 4x4 front axle while doing a conversion. I also added the 4x4 springs and an extra isolator, so I knew the caster was off ( too little). I didnt do the caster adjustment at first because I still needed to add longer rear shackles. So after I did the shackles, I did the alignment again, and added shims to the caster adjustment. I started out at about 4 degrees, and ended up about maxed out in shims at just over 6 degrees. Factory spec is 7.5 degrees. But after the adjustment Ive yet to have another problem. Like was said, it is usually a combination of issues that come to an end result of DW. If you have too little caster, a slightly off balance tire and minor wear in other places, will cause it to start. Some people have noticed as they change one part at a time, that the speed at which the DW starts changes. You just have to keep picking at it, do as many things as you can to make sure everything is good, and youll eventually get it.

Youre gonna have to tell me where these pull a part yards are in our area. I'm really wanting to do the WJ brake upgrade and $16 is a great price for the booster assy. Ive got a whole list of other stuff I want too. And did you notice the thing about the seats and a possible sale. I could deliver them. The three of us would just need to work something out so nobody get stuck out $50 or stuck with seats they don't need. PM us or post up on here. Thanks.

I'm not sure if you know or not, and I'm not trying to sound crappy, but you can't just respray clear and expect it to look right. It doesnt work that way. Ive seen it tried before and it wasnt pretty. The new clear doesnt just blend with the old clear and make it look like original, it just covers over and shows all the stuff that youre seeing now, except that its now all shiny again, but with multi layers of slightly different colors.... not good. Trust me, the whole thing will have to be re sprayed with color before it can be resprayed with clear. Just trying to keep you from wasting money on a clear job that won't turn out like you want it to. I'm sure any good painter will tell you the same thing. I did bodywork and paint for a few years and went to Nashville Auto Diesel College for auto body repair, so you know I'm not just pulling this out of my butt. Good luck , and congrats on a nice save!

All they really needed to do to get in would have been to bust a window and unlock the door, what they did is completely uncalled for, especially if it really was unlocked like was said. STUPID!

Correction ... it should be tempered. ONLY tempered. Laminated is for windshields only. Yes, I know tempered glass cannot be cut. A good glass shop can cut the glass to shape, then have it tempered. I have discussed this with friends who run a glass shop. I was wondering that about the tempered, but then I remembered seeing pics of guys who hit their head on the back glass in rear enders, and it looked more like laminated, so I wasnt sure. I have had laminated cut before for use in a 59 VW microbus, so that is the extent of my experience.

Its a flat peice of glass, any good glass shop should be able to make a template and cut one for you and install it. Might even be cheaper that way. It should be tempered glass or laminated glass.... not regular glass.

Flowmaster 50 series is quieter than the others, as it adds another chamber over the 40 series. It has a nice rumble, and a little growl under load, but is NOT loud at all.

Too bad the party at Petes isnt a week or so sooner. The WPC Museum is doing a Jeep aniversary. See link below. http://www.allpar.com/news/index.php/20 ... ow-in-july

I went through your build thread to see if there were any pics of your rear diff, couldnt find any. Could you get us a pic of the rear diff so we can confirm what rear axle you have. Like was said, it is unheard of for the Dana 44 to be originally offered in 86.

I was gonna say, they changed the connector between 86 and 87, but looks like you figured it out. I found out the hard way, so now my truck has both style connectors spliced together. The connector you need in the dash will be buried behind the cluster. You might need to pull the cluster out to find it.

Wish I had a man cave.... Ive got lots of stuff stored away to put up though. A good sized Coke collection, some antique 4'x6' Valvoline signs, bunch of different states plates, and whatever other assorted stuff. I REALLY need to build a garage!

If you find a nice 2.5, don't discount it. If you just want a DD, then it would probably be all you need. All the same body and suspension upgrades work for them just as they do for the 4.0, and they have the same reliability, just don't expect too much from the power dept, and youll be OK.

You have a turn signal flasher and a 4 way flasher, just swap them for a quick and easy diagnosis. That is assuming your 4 ways work. My boss's MJ did this and it was the flasher. When you go to get a new flasher, get a heavy duty one made for towing. That type doesnt rely on the heat up shut off method to flash... if it did when you add a trailer, it would change the speed the lights flash. The heavy duty one use a different method and flash the same speed all the time, that is likely the type that is in the 4 way side already! Good luck.