dasbulliwagen

End of July sounds great. I'm gonna have to seriously consider this trip. It would be cool to drive the MJ up, though I'm not sure I want to put it through that or not. I'm sure it would make it, but theres always that thought in the back of my head of what if it didnt, and then Id be stranded. AAA towing is good, but they will only get you so far. Ill be keep an eye on this and see what I can make happen. :thumbsup:

That would be cool, though, I'm not sure when the next time Ill be in Michigan again. We'll have to wait and see when we get a date lined up. I would love to help Pete out though.... maybe I can send a donation or parts or something. We should get together a list of whats needed and sign up for bits if we can't make it and want to help. Keep us posted.

I was just looking on Chrysler for info about reprograming for your situation, and came up with nothing. I know they have stuff for situations like this and for vehicles that are converted for the handicapped, but was unable to find anything specific for the JK. If I were you I would call your local dealerships service manager and explain your situation. I would like to think that the manager would call Chysler and get the info they would need to fix your moms JK, but I really couldnt tell you.... depends on how far the manager will go to make it right by you. And as far as not passing inspection... its different in different states, but in North Carolina, having an air bag light on will NOT cause you to fail inspection. The air bag system has nothing to do with vehicle emissions, or the actual safe operation of the vehicle. I guess in NC they don't care if you get hurt in your vehicle, as long as the vehicle is safe in every other way.

You don't need a new compressor to switch to R134a, you just need a conversion kit, and while youre replacing lines, replace the receiver/dryer too, especially if youre converting. When all is said and done with your parts, youll need to have it evacuated for at least an hour. This will remove all traces of old oil and refrigerant before adding the new stuff. This is a requirement, not an option if you want to do this right. If youre handy at all, replace all your parts, and then take it to a shop that can evac and recharge it for you and add the needed amount of the correct oil for the system. Then youll be happy all summer!

Another thing to check is your caster angle in your front alignment.... especially if youre lifted at all. Too little caster will allow other worn parts to set off DW easier. When dealing with this, you need to look at the entire combination, and not ignore anything. Wheel balance as said will also set it off if the tendancy is there. Good luck, let us know what you find.

For whatever reason, GM is STILL using versions of that 2.8 V6 today. It has been refined a lot and bumped up in size, but still has the same basic architecture that the original 2.8 had. I say, if you find one really nice, get it and drive it with it in the back of your mind that you might need to update to the bolt in 3.1 or 3.4 later on to make it better again. Good luck.

After watching the video, they want to use this engine to drive a generator to drive electric motors. Thats why theres no transmission. I wouldnt get too excited about using this to power much of anything other than a generator. I like seeing the innovation and different thinking though. They are going to HAVE to do something to solve the problem of running a car off of an electric motor and make it go more than 40 miles if they want to sell anything, and this is one way of doing that until hydrogen fuel cell technology can catch up. Who knows... one day we may be on here converting our gas trucks to electric motors and fuel cells, just so we can have the priveledge of being able to drive our beloved Comanches, one way or another. Just think of an electric Comanche off road truck.... electric motors have instant FULL torque at any RPM, combine that with a low range and the crawling possibilities are astounding! We all know that at some point gasoline is going to be too expensive to consider being a viable fuel, and that in itself will make everything we know of cars today, as obsolete. Converting to a system like this will be essential to keep what we know alive and usable in the distant future..... sorry if I got off track!

I'm not sure if you have a set of 16's laying around that you want to use or what, but you might look into the Chrysler LH platform 16" steel wheels. I have not researched these, and it being a front wheel drive platform it may have too much backspacing. The LH platform being the LHS, Concorde, and 300M. I have however looked into the Chrysler LX platform wheels, but they are 17 and 18 inch steelies with correct bolt pattern, backspacing and hub diameter. The 17's come as base wheels on the 300, Magnum and Charger models that come with hubcaps. They are a bullethole pattern. The 18's are a 5 spoke design that come on the Charger and Magnum Police cars and I think are pretty good looking. There is a thread about a guy using the 17's on naxja.org right now in the modified tech section. here's the link... http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1055985 I'm keeping my eye out for a set of the police style ones for future use. I have found some on http://www.car-part.com for about $75 each, but I think thats still a bit steep for what I want. Anyways... good luck.

The grab bars around the edges of the people carrying bed show that it was intended for firefighters to ride in and hold on, to make a hasty exit when they arrived at the scene of a fire. Its intended purpose was for carrying people, so push that point when you go to court. Though not having legal counsel the other sides lawyer may try to strongarm you with obscure legal phrasing and objections... so be careful with your wording, dress nice, and keep your calm. When do you go to court?

Rescue Green! Definitely!

The 2.5 will run as long as the 4.0 will.... very reliable. I have 346,000 on mine.... (200,000 on second engine) and it runs great. A new converter and 02 sensor will make a big difference. Youll have oil leaks too, the valve cover, the rear main seal being the worst culprits, especially if it has sat for a while. And since its sat that long, youll need the brakes looked at too, they don't usually fare well with extended storage. The calipers and wheel cylinder will need looked at to make sure theyre working properly. Interiors can be had from most any Cherokee, as far as dash, and door panels go, but some of the peices are Comanche specific, so that will all depend on what you need. The 2.5 is no power house, so as long you don't expect too much youll be fine. Good luck on your resto and finding decent help with it!

Youre not going to see any horsepower out of this..... smoother running maybe, but an ignition system alone will not get you more power. If it did, eveyone would be using it already.

I was gonna say just do away with the EGR, but then I saw you live in Jersey... sorry. I know Jersey is just about as bad as California when it comes to this stuff. Good luck.

Also... the fuel guage will read backwards, as the renix system and the chrysler system used different styles of level senders.

:popcorn:

I don't have pics, but that tire size is barely more than stock. 31x10.50's will fit a stock height truck, so just imagine your truck 3" higher..... or take some jacks and or jack stands and jack your truck up 3 inches to see what you think.

Theres a little valve in the steering box that allows pressure to go min the direction its needed when you turn the wheel, I think its called a spool valve. Anyways, if it gets stuck or full of crap it will only allow pressure to go in one direction instead of both. Looks like youll need a new steering box.

I noticed yesterday that at certain points in the brake pedal travel, I have a hissing noise like I'm loosing vacuum. I havent noticed the engine speed change or anything, but the noise has become quite apparent. Do I have time with this thing, or shold I replace it as soon as possible. I know that this going bad gives me a really good excuse to change to a WJ or 96 type XJ booster, but I really don't want to have to do it soon if I don't need to. It needs an exhaust manifold too as I have a leak there as well, but it isnt bad yet, so I'm dragging that one out. Just looking to those with this experience to know if I have time or not. Thanks!

The fuse should be in the fuse box already, and the wiring to the back of the radio should be there as well. Just plug and play at that end. The speaker connectors for mine were hidden up in the foot wells. The right side I found easilly, but the left side was hidden behind the parking brake. The wiring won't be there for the doors if they didnt originally come that way. I had donor doors that had all the electrics there and I just connected the connectors and it worked. If I were you, I would just run what I needed from the inside of the door to the footwell area, and then make your own connectors at that point.... assuming you arent going super high powered... if you are then you might want to run heavier speaker wire all the ways anyways.

Thats nothing... all just regular maint stuff. Most of that is stuff I would do anyways on a new used vehicle i would have just bought. Sounds like you should be good for a while though.

The problem is that nobody left at Jeep knows enough about the older models to know any different, or to even know where to look to find proper information. Its just sad.

My 87 wasnt pre wired for the power windows, I had to make a harness to get it all to work. I'm not sure about the newer years relative to mine. There is talk of a seperate cross body harness for this purpose, but Ive never seen one.

You need to get ahold of Pete M.... hes in the area, but I'm not sure he would let you have it after he gets his hands on it.