dasbulliwagen

More news from allpar.com..... sounds proimising, even if it isnt American http://www.allpar.com/news/index.php/20 ... -join-jeep

I havent tried it, but I have always thought that it would work. Cable end mount should be the same, you might just have to drill new mounting holes to match the MJ ones, other than that I don't see why it wouldnt work. New ones are still available from the dealer as the YJ ones had a recall on them. We still replace them every once in a while here at the dealership. Good luck.

Full time 4wd means that it can be used in all conditions, including dry pavement without risk of damaging any driveline components, part time 4wd means it should only be used in loose conditions like dirt or snow and ice. Part time locks the T/C front and rear and has no give for variations in wheel speed front to rear and could cause binding or damage to parts on dry pavement, the full time mode includes a differential unit in the transfer case to allow for wheel speed variations front and rear and won't cause any damage to parts. Hope that helps

Ive gutted and sleeved the cat and installed a flowmaster muffler on my 2.5 with NO noticeable loss of low end torque, and did gain a small amount of power felt in the seat. I can't see how the change from a manifold to a header is going to make any loss of torque at this point. My plan is to rebuild a spare 2.5 I have with some power adding mods..... port and polish, cam if I can find one, and go to maximum overbore with the cylinders, maybe see if I can make a 2 bbl throttle body work with the existing computer system... stuff like that. I know that to many of you it all sounds pointless, but I see it as more fun this way, as I really don't need the power that a good ole 4.0 has to offer. And.... up to this point, I havent had a 4.0 donor fall in my lap, so, I have to work with what I have. So, when the time comes, I will have a header!

Label your wires, cut the old socket out and take it in and compare it to get the right new one. They are available, just need to get the right one.

To be completely sure, you should get the numbers off the transfer case tag. its a little round tag on the backside of the case toward the top, the number you should look for will be three digits ending with a "J" like 242J, 231J, 207J....like these. Then you will know for sure.

The options list if it comes up depending on the year, should show what it comes with like youre describing. I can only pass on what Chrysler gives me though.

It depends on the year of your truck. The earlier models the lookup doesnt work as well. If you have an 86 , I probably can't get you any info, if its an 87 or 88, I might be able to get some info, but probably not a full build sheet. 89 and up should get a full info sheet. Youre welcome to try sending me your VIN and milage, and Ill send you what I can.

I'm a Chrysler tech, if you would like to post your VIN and milage or PM them to me I can look up all the Chrysler info on your truck, including the build sheet, original selling dealer, build date, in service date, and recalls.

Is there EVER really an after??? I know most of will NEVER be finished with our trucks, and therefore there would never be a real after, but I know what youre saying, and It will be nice to see the difference where you are now and from where it started. I still need to get pics of mine in its current state to update my build thread.

http://www.allpar.com/news/index.php/20 ... -to-the-us

These trucks are fairly rare, but theyre not really collectable, due to the number of XJ's out there. There are varying ways to look up the price for one. KBB might give you one number, but if you look at a classic car price guide, it will be way higher. I think when I looked up my 87 2wd 2.5 short bed, it came back at like $7500 or so.... which is way over what the real market will bear. I agree about $3500 being good if its a rust free truck, but I don't think it would worth any MORE than that. Its too easy (relatively speaking) to find a good rust free truck, especially in the south for much much cheaper than that. If you can afford it and its what you want, then go for it, but if its just going to be a yard beater, find something else.

What we are saying with the 5 speed swap is that if you need a different trans anyways, go for the 5 speed right off the bat, they seem to be more common anyways too. And if possible get a matching set of front and rear axles to go with it. That will make life easier for you. 3:55 gearing will suck donkey balls with 31" tires and the 2.5, so really try to get a set of 4:10's all ready to go from a donor. Your engine will thank you, and youll feel more power from it through the entire rpm range. I bought a donor MJ with the 5 speed 4x4 trans and 4:10 axles in it already for $125.... the motor was shot (2.8 V6 suprise suprise) but it was everything I needed to convert to 4x4. And Just for your info.... when looking for donors, the 2.5 and the 2.8 use the same transmission and bellhousings, so don't rule out 2.8 donors. Good luck, and let us know if you have any more questions.

I have the same 2.5 issue you do. I posted this same question on NAXJA and got no responses. I too am curious as to how easy or difficult a header would be to put in a 2.5 MJ as there arent any listed for our specific applications. And Ive also seen they only list them back to 91 when they went to port injection. I think the difference might be with EGR, as the port injected models didnt have EGR, and the TBI models did. So with that thinking, if you did away with your EGR, and made sure the O2 sensor was close enough to stock to be able to mount it, I would think there shouldnt be a problem bolting it up, and then making sure that the downpipe to the cat will go in place, or modifying it to do so. I have just been looking for someone who has done it or seen it done to make sure my thinking is right.

Ive never seen or heard of manual brakes on one of our vehicles. The last thing I had with manual brakes was a 76 Ford Maverick, and it had the wide brake pedal so you could use both feet to stop the car. But in your case, if I was building it, I might go with a dune buggy master cylinder setup. They can be had in billet aluminum with a twin master cylinder setup... one for front and one for rear, or you could get them for rear only, as many buggies had spindle mount front wheels. It wouldnt be hard to fab a rod to hook them up either. Lighter that way too.

Yeah, I think being in NC you can find much better ones than that. My parts truck is a local NC truck and has nowhere near the rust that thing has.... only has one little spot on the drivers floor.... THATS IT! Keep looking around in NC and youll find a better truck.

Seriously???? That is nothing compared to what us former and current rust belt drivers have had to deal with. I hope youre joking because to many of us, it isnt funny. Be happy to have what you have! Sorry if this sounds mean, but knowing what real rust is and seeing that just makes me want to cry. I'm glad I now live in NC and don't have to deal with it anymore. Having slush build up on the back of your pantleg while driving, and haveing to prop up the cab of your ranger in the rear to keep the cab from bouncing off the bed..... that is rust! :thumbsup:

I don't have many "OTHER TOYS" left anymore besides the MJ. But I do still have my bike. Its a 1997 Buell Lightning S-1. 1200 cc's of loud and nasty Harley V-twin. I'm not sure if the tricycles I'm restoring are other toys or not... And the first of next month I'm going to pick up an old John Deere yard tractor from my father in law to restore and use. I think it is from the late 60's early 70's. Sorry, no pics yet.

I know in MJ's it was 86-87 only, and most likely the same for Cherokees 84-87.

Did you see the link? Yes I saw the link, watched the trailer..... is that a real movie or just some spoof trailer? Just don't seem real to me.... would be kinda cool if it was, but I have my doubts. Seem like something that would be shown on Robot chicken or adult swim.

Is this for real?????

Put a new power steering pump, pressure line, and resevior in it yesterday to replce the old one that took a dump on me last weekend while moving a refridgerator. When I originally did the conversion to power steering, I used a resevior from a late model Caravan, but its pump supply hose end was larger than the hose connection on the pump, so I just MADE it work. But this time I replaced it with a correct sized resevior from a Journey, so all the hose connections fit right. Nice and quiet again!

If its an 86, it won't have an AW4, it should have an A904... it is the smaller version of the TF727 from Chrysler, and is readilly buildable to handle more horsepower. Just thought I let you know you don't have an AW4.

Went to a car quest the other day wanting a 1 wire starter solenoid for an old Ford to mount in my riding lawnmower. Not looking up any numbers, this old timer, went over to the shelf and started pulling several different solenoids till we found the right one.... I thought that was great that he could do that and I walked out happy, but I too know that is not the case most of the time.

Employee pricing is just another name for whatever rebates the factory wants to give at that moment, and if the words "employee pricing" make those rebates any more special to you or make you think youre getting a better deal, thats all the better.... its pure marketing. The price may be what employees would have paid before the rebate, but the employees still get their rebate as well, so it isnt really employee pricing. Like was said, do your research through Kelly blue book, and Edmunds.com and find out what other people in your area are paying for a similar deal. Keep these numbers with you when you go to deal, but don't bring them out unless you need to. If the dealer can get close, then if you want it bad enough, get it. Either that or walk out and go somewhere else..... they really hate it when you do that, but with the egos some of these dealers and salesman have, it serves them right.