dasbulliwagen

From 86 XJ Waggy: front end (Grille/header assy and chrome bumper), one front fender, doors with all power options, power antenna, cig lighter, clock, front skid plate, T/C skid plate, radio, dual tone horns, stainless windsheild trim From ZJ: Front sway bar From unknown MY XJ: Aluminum Limited or Up Country style lace wheels, Rear bumper-chrome- adapted to fit From 07 JK Wrangler: Front and rear shocks-adapted to fit From YJ Wrangler: Stainless stock length front and rear brake hoses From 06 Grand Caravan: Power steering resevior From 99-04 WJ: Electric cooling fan- adapted to fit

Ive read good things about the Herculiner DIY kits available. And you can get it in a few different colors. I plan on doing mine in White to match my truck someday. Do a search on here for this and youll come up with several threads.

I know this is off topic, but we just refi'd our house, and the old mortgage company tried adding in an extra months interest into the payoff amount hoping we wouldnt notice. My wife is meticulous with our bills, so she caught it, but I'm sure a lot of people wouldnt have. You need to keep an eye on stuff like that. This extra months interest charge comes to around $700.00! Friggin people anyways! :mad:

The YJ axles will not bolt up without welding on the proper mounts and perches, as the YJ is leaf spring in the front. The engines and trannies will bolt up, except that the YJ in its early years came with the 258 (4.2) 6 cylinder and it was carbed. So unless you get a later model that you could use the engine and trans from, there won't be much else that would be an easy swap.

I just finished doing an oil change and TPS on one a few minutes ago. They shouldnt be that hard to find. Theres more of them out there than you know, as most of them from outwards appearances look just like the 4wd models. I think the biggest difference is in the unit bearings, either the bearings are different, or theres a stub shaft in there to keep it together which means it would be the same as the 4wd models. If you could get one from a 4wd, just get the CV axles too, and make your own stub shaft from the CV end... just cut it down... would work the same for your purposes.

I'm not sure the rules in OH, but making any sort of buggy street legal really isnt that hard... the VW guys do it all the time. Look up the laws in your state for an assembled vehicle, and as long as you meet criteria, you should be able to get an assembled vehicle title for it. Oh and keep receipts in case they want to see them for vehicle assembly, they want to make sure parts arent stolen or questionable. Some places will get on you about using a VIN on an assembled vehicle that really doesnt belong there. The guys that use a shortened VW pan and a complete fiberglass body get hasseled sometimes when they are off road and get checked and have the title and registration listed as a VW beetle, when it clearly isnt that anymore. Might be different with an MJ though. Would deffinitely be a cool build. Let us know if you start a build thread!

If youre serious about a 2wd brake upgrade, I would look into some 2wd WJ spindles, complete with the brakes, and the already correct bolt pattern. They have larger rotors, 2 piston calipers and are supposed to be much better than original. Then you could use adapters on the rear axle. I think if youre keeping the WJ bolt pattern, all you would need to do is swap the lower ball joint to a WJ style, and bolt it on, and adapt the brake lines. If you were going to change it to the original bolt patten, then bearings would need to be changed, and a spacer added, and either redrill the rotors, or add rotors from something else. But you won't need all that. The 17 inch aluminum JK wheels will clear the WJ brake calipers just fine. And swapping the WJ master cylinder and booster (or dual diaphragm XJ booster) would be good to do at the same time as well to be able to handle the WJ calipers. Good luck!

WHAT JUST HAPPENED HERE????? WE LOST A WHOLE DAYS WORTH OF POSTS....ALL DAY SUNDAY AND MONDAY MORNING!!! bUT i SEE EVERYTHING IS WORKING AGAIN.

Seriously????

I need to vote FOR the waggy front end. I also like it better on our trucks... like was said, it just seems to fit better as far as looks go.

:agree: Welcome!

To raise compression, all youd have to do is have the head shaved, but then youd need to make sure you have valve clearance, and to do that, youd need to have your finish build camshaft in it. As for the injection, I have no idea, I doubt anyone has any idea about that. That system works off throttle position, and O2 signal for mixture, so I would guess that it would, but I really don't know for sure.

don't knock the small cars. I used to myself, until I found I needed a newer cheap small car to be able to see my new long distnace relationship girfriend... now wife. 11 years ago, I bought a used 3-4 year old Hyundai Accent hatchback with 36,000 miles on it for $5000. I was in Michigan at the time, and that little car would go almost anywhere in the snow. Its the best snow and ice vehicle Ive ever had next to the Grand Waggy I used to have. And it has dual fron airbags, and with 156,000 miles on it still gets 38 MPG. don't count them out, even though I know you want to. Might still be your best option.

You search for a Comanche, but it gives you a class 2 hitch for a J truck. I don't think it is the right hitch.

Its easier to ask for forgiveness than it is to ask for permission!

The 4.0 throttle body will only work on the port injected models, I think the same goes for a throttle body spacer too. Though a homemade throttle body spacer might work. But as I saw it in my truck, there is only about a 1/2"- 3/4" of clearance between the throttle body topper and the hood, so that might be a problem too.

Or you can relocate it to the engine compartment like I did on my Boss's 88 MJ, just find a place to stuff it in!

It holds a vacuum reserve so that when accelerating your truck, the heat and air blowing positions don't move on you for lack of vacuum. If you don't have it, youll only get defrost while accelerating or cruising at highway speeds. Keep it, it don't hurt anything!

NOPE... it has manufacturer plates on it... that what the M in the middle is for. When i used to live in southern Michigan, youd see these things (plates) fairly often as they do test runs on disguised and undisguised cars.

There are a few companies that make headers, and Clifford performance makes an intake manifold that a 4 bbl carb can be attached to, or a custom fuel injection system, which they also sell. Cams have been the stopping point at least for me. I have been so far unable to find ANYONE listing performance cams for them anymore. Someone here recently said that he had one reground at a local shop, so that might be your best bet... call around to the speed shops and see who in your area does that kind of work. Add all that to a port and polish, and maybe a maximum overbore and pistons, youd be good to go.

If you can find the AX5 and its corresponding 4:10 rear axle to swap together, that would be your best option. I'm in the process of doing the same thing, except I am going 4wd, but Ive swapped the 4:10's in already and it gets a little buzzy in 4th sometimes, I have my AX% ready tp put in, just havent done that part yet. It did give the engine more pep too, as comapitvely, all the first 4 gears will now be lower, and your new 5th gear with that combo, should be the same as 4th gear with the 3:55's. The factory worked it out like that real slick!

Ive thought about this before too. I think that an early to mid 80's Ford F100 stepside would look best with its angular styling. Just search for a pic of one and youll see. But now that I think of it, the Chevy Luv pickup had a simillarly styles bed, and was smaller than the F100.... would take some research and time to do right, but might be worth it, and look better than that stupid ranger bed that keeps getting posted.

http://www.allpar.com/news/index.php/20 ... n-disguise

Chrysler Jeep and Dodge are all together as one, and Fiat is in control, and looking to own controlling interest of them.

272 or 2.72 is the low range gearing.... not your transfer case ID number. You should be looking for a number followed by a "J"