dasbulliwagen

I would like to do this to my 86 if I ever start working on it, but only because the bed on it is soo friggin mangled that I can only see it making it look better. I plan to do it right though too, with a proper regrafting on of the taillight/ tailgate section. It can look good as long as its done right. Maybe you don't have enough body experience to either want to or be able to do it right. I don't know, but I do know these trucks deserve better.

Here are some brass plumbing fittings I used to install the temp sensor for my electric fan controller: Here is a shelf bracket being called into service to mount my power steering resevior: And here is my modified WJ electric cooling fan assy that I used a big tube of two part epoxy on to make it fit my radiator: All of this stuff was bought from Lowes hardware. And what is a DSM???

Thisis NOT true. My 86 had the 258 6 cylinder, and it was completely stock. Alldata shows that the 6 cylinder was used through 87, and 88 on had only the 360.

Get a stripe eraser.... its like a giant round pencil eraser that mounts in your drill, your turn your drill on, and just rub the sticker off.... great for bigger jobs, but for small jobs its good too... saves a bunch of hassel. They can be had at most parts stores or even walmart I think. I think too there a write up about using this in the DIY section.

If you find one with the 258 6 cylinder, and its nice, don't pass it up. The one I had all the power it needed to go anywhere in stock form. If it still has the stock carb though you may want to spring for the holley/weber 2 bbl.... makes drivability much nicer. It was probably THE most comfortable vehicle I have ever owned. So good luck with your search.

As long as you don't expect too much from it, youll be happy. Just remember, it s 20 plus year old 4 cylinder truck with a bunch of miles and use/abuse on it. Take your problems one at a time, and fix them little by little and upgrade when possible and you can't go wrong.

Chrysler doesnt have a lot of info on the earlier models, but I did find a little bit for you. The options list below is incomplete, but it is as much as Chrysler lists for 87 models. You might be able to look up the 3 letter codes somewhere to find out what they mean. Build Date: June 16, 1987 Hour: 24 Odometer Type: Kilometers In-Service Date: August 14, 1987 Selling Dealer: C9764 - DE WILDT JEEP EAGLE Sales Type: 3 - FLEET-COMMERCIAL BUYER City: HAMILTON State/Province: ON Country: CAN Telephone: (905)312-0090 Optional Equipment Code Description Code Description Code Description *A6 DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE -Y1 DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE APA DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE CBA DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE CGX DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE DDJ DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE EPD DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE HCC DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE JDA DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE KQJ DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE LAP DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE LMA DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE MBJ DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE MDA DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE NAG DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE PXB DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE QXB DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE SBA DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE TBG DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE WJM DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE

That second sensor is what is refered to as a catalyst monitor. the front sensor gives the PCM what it needs for fuel ratio, but the rear sensor makes sure the cat is doing its job, and it will set a code. All you need to do is buy a bung, drill a hole where needed after the cat and weld the bung in so you can mount the after cat sensor... no big deal really.

I agree about the zinc content thing being very important for our engines, but the newer oils just don't have that in them anymore even though they say that the newer oil superceeds any of the older ones.... that just isnt true. I think the most common oil rating for late model cars is SM... it has far less zinc in it than previous oils due to manufacturers trying to keep emissions down. The higher zinc variety can either be found with diesel oils or in an SL rated oil. About the only SL rated oil Ive found is Mobil 1 High milage, and that is what Ive begun using once I found out about all this stuff. There was a huge thread on here a while back that went into great detail about all this and got me to change my mind on what I use.

MOPAR no longer makes cams for the 2.5, and NO ONE ELSE Ive found makes them anymore either. Clifford performance used to have listings for 2.5 performance parts, but have recently done away with them all. Some say there are places that will regrind a new profile on a stock cam for a performance application, but I have yet to research any of them yet. The best bet for the feeling of more power in a 2.5 is gearing in the axles. Other things you can do are to do away with the engine driven fan and add an electric unit with a fan controller. Ive had good luck with opening up the exhaust, with a gutted and sleeved cat converter, and a Flowmaster 50 series muffler. Ive also done a "COLD" air intake tube, but I really only put that on there to make room for other modifications, and just because I had it laying around. Tune up parts will be the next best bet for better power, including a new 02 sensor. I don't think a turbo system on this truck would be worth the time and energy it will take to make it work. Youll just end up with a partially finished project that youll be unable to finish or make run right. We wish you luck though and let us know what you end up doing.

Just received my Herculiner in the mail today.... time to get to work again!

I think it should say, comancheclub.com's MJOTM and then whatever.

I think if I was doing 6 1/2 inches. even with adjustable contol arms, I think I would like some control arm drop brackets. youd get a better ride, and maybe even better flex. I'm not sure what you plan for offroading, but if you plan for a lot of on road, I think the drop brakets would make a much nicer ride.

4 or 6 ? ok one mod cheap and works well ...please don't flame me on this one ! get some new ford 300 '' rocker arms that knocks the lift in the mid .400's without spring bind or wear... Wait what? I've been working with Jeeps for a few years now and I've never heard this one before. How did you come across this? ok i have been working for 30 some years on cars and trucks plus a bit of racing too...we found to cheat at times if a configuration of a different part is close and get a gain ,it may be overlooked by the techy ,hey we win ....i had to seal my valve cover one day ,4 years ago and seen the rockers ...said damn i seen this rocker arm config before .....next went to the tool box found one new in the package ...match it up the fulcrum point its about a 1/8'' closer to the pivot .next i took one rocker arm off one put it on turned engine slowly with feeler gauge at the highest point lift over .050 spacing -no binding turned the rest of the way slowly ....win ok all stop got more of them but one trouble was the valve cover ... the plastic one part of the pcv baffle area will hit so grind or cut [easy]so no hit is done --hand turn of engine is needed .... i have 60,000 miles so far plus other mods on her .....working well ... Being that youre not in the US, we would like to know exactly what you are refering to as a Ford 300. We in the US know the Ford 300 as an inline 6 cylinder engine used in Ford trucks. Is that what you are talking about??? If not, more detals would be appreciated! What a Ford 300 is, what years, all that stuff.We need to know more! :wrench:

Youll need another $50 for a good alignment after youre done too, as your front wheels will be toed in and your steering wheel will be off center, and your caster angle will have gone closer to being zero. Caster spec is around 7.5 degrees, but if yours is like mine when I adjusted my caster, with as many shims as I could get in there, I still only got to 6 degrees. All I did for my boost was add 4x4 front spprings, and an extra isolater, and extended stock Chevy shackles in the rear to level it up. If you don't do the caster adjustment you will be more prone to death wobble. My truck never had any issues till I boosted mine, and then I got the wobble, it went away after I adjusted the caster and adjusted the toe properly. don't cheap out on this part. Youll be happy you didnt.

Most of those same balancers will allow stick on weights to be placed on the inside of the wheel toward the outside edge to at least get you some weight where it needs to be. Other ways to do it are to put the weights actually inside the wheel before the tire is mounted so there are no weights visible, and another way is to get some airsoft beads and put inside the tire to self balance. I don't have experience with the airsoft product, so someone else would have to chime in with this method.

:D :need pics: of the two girls so we can make an informed decision of what youre getting yourself into.

Post or PM me your whole VIN number and milage and Ill tell you through Chrysler what day it was built on and get you a build sheet. I agree, this 6 of 92 thing needs to be confirmed.

4 or 6 ? ok one mod cheap and works well ...please don't flame me on this one ! get some new ford 300 '' rocker arms that knocks the lift in the mid .400's without spring bind or wear... Wait what? I've been working with Jeeps for a few years now and I've never heard this one before. How did you come across this? I wanna know too. The rockers are the same on the 2.5 as the 4.0. We've been doing this trick on air cooled VW's forever... adding higher ratio rockers increases valve lift for better breathing without adding a cam. We need to confirm this somehow!

Judging by the production numbers listed on the registry page, I would have to say NO. Sorry.

I noticed when I tried to fit one up to my 2.5 Mj that there was a clearance issue with the little shock absorber thats attached to the motor. That might be the difference that youre talking about, as the one I tried to fit up came off of a 2.8 if I remember right. The 2.8 and 4.0 didnt have the little shock absorber. So depending on the donor, you may or may not have a clearance issue.

Finally ordered some Herculiner for my bed. I'm getting the white to match the rest of the truck. Read nothing but good reviews everywhere I looked for herculiner, as theres no way Ill be able to afford having someone else do it. If this works out good, I may consider using it to paint my 86 MJ project if I ever start working on it.

Before he became a big name, I would hear him on the Bob and Tom show on the radio, and he was always fine, always funny, but since he got his own shows, and now the talk show he has been getting worse and worse about the racism stuff. I always thought he was cool till I saw him on one of his shows, then it was all over for me.

Customs is going to be horrible. Youll need to look for companies that do stuff like that regularly and get some advice.

If you look up the wiring harness you should be able to make the harness you need to go across the body to the other door. My 1986 donor didnt have a seperate cross harness so I cut off the connectors and looked up the diagram and made it myself. Works great! Though it would be much easier if you could just plug n play. Ive heard tell of the cross harness existing but have never seen one.... so... GOODLUCK!