dasbulliwagen

Few if any people on here have any experience with what youre working with, so please don't get discouraged at the lack of replies. Sounds like youre on the right track though. I'm not sure if you should do away with the canister though. See if you can route it in similar to the original setup. If you leave hoses open, youll get a gas smell outside your truck all the time, and if you block them off, youll collapse your gas tank due to contracting vapors on a cool evening after a hot day. The vapor system doesnt rob any horsepower, so its best to keep it if you can figure it out.

I am unable to grow a full beard. I can get a mustache, and all down my chin, but beyond that, almost nothing. I can't to a full goatee either. The stache and the chin won't grow together. can't grow sideburns either. No chest hair.... must be some american Indian in me somewhere. My great grandmother did once say that we had a bit of that connection, but beyond that I counldnt tell you. Ive noticed that most guys who can grow lots of hair, tend to go bald up top. I don't think I'm going to have that issue. I hate shaving too, so most times, Ill just knock down the stache, and all the little strays, and let the rest go, and I only do electric. Scared myself once as a kid with dads razor, and havent touched them since!

I put a flowmaster 50 series on my 2.5 with a gutted cat, and it is quiet but has a little growl when under load. if you still have a stock cat with its guts it might even be a little mellower. I would think you would have similar results with a 4.0.

front-yes rear-no

I added AC to mine with all the parts from a donor. I did have to do a little wiring though as all the factory wires werent there in my 87 2.5. My 87 did have an unused plug though that was meant for adding dealer installed AC. Some of the wires I needed were there, so I followed an original factory service manual wiring diagram and made the rest of the harness I needed. The dash side of things had all of the AC wires already there, so I just plugged in the donor HVAC housings original wiring to my dash wiring and that side was done. If you get parts from a junkyard donor, when you tear the dash out to get to the HVAC housing be sure to get as much attached wiring to the HVAC box as you can, and the controls and cables. You don't even have to unhook the cables from the box, just get it all together. I had a mouse house in mine, so I took it apart a little and cleaned it and hosed it down with Lysol to disinfect it before putting it in my truck. If you get the parts from a pullapart yard, this will give you the experience you need to take yours apart without worrying about breaking anything. Youll also need the compressor, compressor bracket, alternator bracket, all the lines and hoses, reciever dryer, and condensor, and then have it professionally converted to R134a refrigerant (which consists of adapter ports for the original ports), and have it evacuated and recharged. You may still have issues after that especially if youre using 15-20 year old parts, but at least youll be on the right track. Good luck.

I didnt think mine had a plug, but it did, it was just really buried. If I were you, Id do a little more searching before I started cutting wires. Look in your fuse box too, there should be a fuse already in there for it. Pull it and clean it when you do your clock install. I put a perfect clock in mine and it quit working all of a sudden a minute after I installed it, so I assume it was just old technology fritzing out. I tore it apart and broke it trying to see if it was fixable. So I found a different clock, installed it, and it didnt work either. Thats when I noticed the fuse already in the box. I wiggled the fuse and the clock started working. Which means there was nothing wrong with the old one which was much nicer and brighter than the new one. Check your fuse!

Recharged the AC again. After being charged last spring it was down to about 6 oz left. Must have a leak somewhere. I think I need a new H-block too, as the low side pressure was showing about 10 psi. I still have a ton of projects needing done on it, like building the trailer hitch, Herculining the bed, taking pics to update my build thread, installing my AX5 4wd trans and transfer case, doing the needed bodywork to prep for paint..... you know, all the "little" stuff.

We will all be expecting invitations!

Ive had a long standing subscription to Cycle world for about 10 years now, but I think I'm going to let it run out and was wondering what the best 4wd magazine is to get a sub to. I had a sub to Petersens 4wheel and off road a long friggin time ago when I was a kid and liked it, and when I had my Grand Wagoneer I would regularly buy JP, because they often did articles on Full size Jeeps. So at this point I just want to know which ones you guys recommend.

Link???

:clapping:

The Windsor Star reported that local suppliers and an industry research company have agreed that the “lifestyle pickup” Dakota replacement would be produced at Windsor, making it likely that past Allpar reports of the vehicle sharing basic dimensions and underbody with the minivans are on target. The article used the following photo from suzq044 at Allpar as an illustration. The Star said that annual demand was projected at around 15,000 to 20,000 units per year; the truck would essentially be used to assure that Windsor could retain three shifts in the event of lower minivan demand. This would reduce pressure on Chrysler to provide rebates and other incentives; in the long run this would allow for more attractive lease rates as resale values rose. The truck is expected for the 2013 model year; its basic outlines were first discussed on Allpar in 2007.

Those WJ heated seats have had 2 seperate recalls for the heated seat elements. If you pull back the seat covers, I'm sure youll find several burn marks underneath from where the elements short out. If you get the VIN's from the donors I'm sure either myself or someone els can look it up and tell you if there is still any open recalls on the seats or the last time the elements were changed.

If you havent seen this show, its whole premise is about buying an old car cheap, fixing it up and reselling it. Its set in England, and all the cars they get are kinda rustbuckets. Ive seen three of the shows now and the guy has only made money on one of the cars. The first one I saw he bought a Suzuki Samurai, and he wanted to lift it, put big tires on it and all and paint it. Turns out it needs a new motor, so they put a used one in, and he bought a set of spring over axles and 31 inch tires and wheel spacers for it, and painted the whole thing satin black. He was expecting to make a profit on it, but when they went to sell it, it had to be safety inspected, and it FAILED due to rust in the pan and rear wheel wells, so he could only sell it as an off road vehicle, and lost something like 500 pounds on it, and acted happy about it! I think the second one I saw was a Ford Capri, and he only broke even on it. And when they take into account of what they spend on these cars, they don't take into account the labor cost that this guy has with the guy who actually does all the work. STUPID! Anyways.. the reason I started watching the show is that in the promo commercials, they show him doing an old CJ. I though it would be interesting to see what a brit would do to flip an old CJ, but they havent played that show yet.

Other than the steering box repair, what else do you beleive is sketchy? The frame repair there has been documented here in these pages many times. If all the front end parts are tight and proper, you should have no problem running whatever speed you want with 33's. Theres no reason you can't make this truck into what you want.

I'm also a Chrysler Dodge Jeep dealer tech, and I have never had an issue using anti seize on wheel studs. I rotate my tires every oil change and have never seen a loose lug nut that was torqued on properly to begin with. I don't reduce the torque to put them on though either. During some aspects of engine building, they tell you to lubricate the threads before torquing in order to get full torque applied to the object youre working on, because if it were dry, some of the torque would be lost to friction during assembly. The same should apply here, a little lube will allow the full torque to be applied to the studs, and then be easier to remove again later. Just my 2 cents.

Evidently us MJ's and XJ's don't rate. I think I'm even lower on the list having a Waggy front end, which makes me even more unrecognizable to other XJ's, not to mention the Wrnagler/CJ crowd.

Could be an accumulator. Racers use them for pressurized oil in their system on startup to reduce bearing wear. Though pics would be very helpful to verify what it is.

Had this problem with my bosses MJ... the ground strap going to the block was TOAST.... horrible shape... I replaced it and its been fine since. I had a similar problem with my MJ after I got it, it was the battery terminals not making good connection. Usually if I went and fiddled with the cables when this happened, it would fire right up.

Not that I want to buy any of these parts, but you come on here with no posts, expecting people to want to get into this when many of us have been burned and lost money the last time this happened. I see you have 150 or so posts on NAXJA, but I think youre going to have a hard time getting anyone here to trust that this is going to happen, or to trust you to give you any money when we have no guarantee that this will work... AGAIN. It just doesnt feel right, especially since you only signed up here for this purpose.

If I were you, and it is running good, I would start with at most a head job.... (valve job, seals, and gaskets). You would want either a new injector or a known good injector too, and a new 02 sensor. Or you could start with just the valve seals, the injector and 02 sensor, as you would want these new with a rebuild anyways. I'm sure these few things would make a big difference in your engine by themselves. Oh, and a tune up is assumed at this point as well...plugs, wires, cap, and rotor and maybe a new coil and ignition module too. Before you do all this maybe do a compression and leakdown test to check the internals before going too far. If your rings are shot, youll need a full rebuild anyways.... good luck!

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=19293&p=197035#p197035 Yeah, That was it!

I can't remember where I found these pics, but this truck is done really nice!

I think that if you really want to go propane, you should switch your engine to a 258 (4.2) carbed Jeep engine, or maybe even just swap heads and intake from a 258, and then add a propane carb setup. Ive heard of people converting the 258 to Fuel injection with 4.0 parts, but I'm not sure how well it would work the other way around. Youd need to swap ignition systems too as there will no longer be an engine controller to do that if you do this swap. Though I'm not sure youd get any better performance out of it. Seems like a lot to do just for the few benefits of propane.

It NEEDS to be properly finished and have the JEEP lettering put back on the tailgate!