dasbulliwagen

If the throttle body is not closing all the way, this could cause the slack needed to make the other end of the cable fall off the gas pedal. Clean your throttle body real good and make sure it is getting full movement. This should take care of your problem.

The 2.8 and 2.5 use the same bellhousing. it should be a direct swap, and 86 used an external slave so you should not have any issues with that either. I am preparing to do this same swap on my 2.5. As far as axles, Youll need to see what your rear axle gearing is in the 2.5. There are conflicting reports on the early models as to what gears are behind an auto 2.5. It could be 4:56. It might also be 4:10. If it is 4:10 youre in luck as the donor 2.8 5 speed should be 4:10 as well and youll only need to swap in the front axle to make everything correct. All the axle numbers will need to be confirmed to make sure they are correct though for your needs. The auto was not electronically controlled, so you will not have any problems electrically swapping in a manual trans. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

As for your compression on the 2.5.... 30 PSI is NOT good. And I am assuming youre telling us in PSI, but being that youre in Canada, maybe the 30 is Kpa or something else. Please clarify this for us. If its 30 PSI, you need a new engine or a rebuild. As for going to the dealer for a second opinion, most of the techs at the dealer rarely if ever see a Renix 2.5 in the shop. I'm a Jeep dealer tech and none of us want to see a renix come into the shop, mostly because none of us have much if any experience with them and they are hard to get running info from. A good independant shop will be better for you and cost less.

Sounds more like a broken, seized, or unattached cable. The throttle body has its own spring pressure that should hold the pedal up. Check both ends of the cable itself and you should find the problem.

I noticed that on mine too. The seals around the window channel that the window rolls up and down in had shrunk over the years and had left gaps at the top edge... sounds just like what you are describing. I took care of it by replacing the doors with some off of a much nicer XJ Waggy with all the power options.

For the price, the Yokohama Geolander A/T is highly rated and at least for me has been a very good tire on my Hyundai Tucson. I plan to buy a set of them for the MJ next year in a 32x11.50. Just my 2 cents. Good luck.

You may have a bad unit bearing assy. It might only rub in that direction if the bearing goes bad and tilts the opposite direction. I'm not sure I'm making any sense right now, but lif the wheel off the ground and wobble it form the 9-3 positions and the 12-6 positions. If you have wobble, especially form the 12-6 position, you need a new unit bearing. Good luck.

What they could be worth and what they are worth are differant things. NADA guides classic car pricing put my MJ at more than $7000. Could I sell it for that? NO. I paid $250 for it, put a tune up and an o2 sensor in it and its been running great for almost 4 years now. Ive since converted it to 4wd, AC, PS, PL and some other stuff. The biggest thing with prices on old cars is what the owner thinks its worth. Like my truck with more than 300,000 miles on it, the owner pretty much though it wasnt worth much more than scrap price and thats what he sold it to me for, knowing that Id fix it up. If you can find an owner like that you can get a deal, but many of todays sellers are much more informed due to that thing called the interweb. They can see values like the NADA classic guide, and then be convinced they can get $7000 for that rusty 20 some year old pile in their driveway and then wonder why no one wants to buy it. You just need to keep an eye out, and hope to get lucky.

I used the Krylon Fusion to re color my door panels in my truck. Seems to be holding up well. I can't comment on how or if it would work on seats or the dash though. Good luck.

I have researched this before and have come up with nothing. As far as I know, no one has ever stroked a 2.5L. Ive wondered if the crankshaft rod journals can be re ground off center to effectively move the stroke center outward. I know of companies doing this to stroke air cooled VW's. That would involve finding different smaller rod bearings and different length rods that will match all the new machining. Your best bet for more cc's would be to bore the cylinders to maximum overbore, and install new pistons to match. And no one currently sells a high performance camshaft for these engines either. For that, you would need to find someone who can re grind the camshaft. If you have a port injected 2.5, some larger injectors may be requiered as well. Whatever route you go, you have a lot of research ahead of you. I wish you luck, and let us know how it works out for you. Welcome to the club! Edit: Just re read your signature. It appears you have a 1988 model. You have throttle body injection (That is assuming the euro models are the same as US models). You will have much more trouble getting better fueling with this setup and OEM electronics. I started to research using a GM 2 barrel TBI unit, but didnt finish. It looks like the throttle position sensors use the same voltage range, but I wonder if the OEM renix computer can handle powering two injectors.

:popcorn: Hope you and the MJ are OK. And I hope the lady gets a big fat distracted driving ticket!

I used that manual when I did my power windows and locks as my 87 didnt have the cross body harness. I also used when I wired up the AC conversion. Came in very handy!

I'm not sure if this will apply to you, but in some cases if your vehicle wasnt originally outfitted with an amp, but still had the wiring there for it, it might not have the fuse for it in the fuse box to power the amp. Just another thing to check. Good luck.

After reading this Ill need to check mine out. My original is non AC and my donor vehicle has AC and its rad is sitting here under my workbench. Ill try to compare thicknesses and see if I can confirm this with what I have.

Mine did this after I got it. I changed all sorts of parts on it till I decided to take a chance and put in an O2 sensor. It fixed it right away, and it has ran great since. I'm not saying this is whats wrong with yours, but if you know it hasnt been changed in a long time, slap a new one in it and see what happens. Good luck, welcome to the club and let us know how it turns out!

Not sure of any bolt ins, but you could modify your core support to the 4.0 style and run a 4.0 rad and fans. youll just need to make or find hoses that will adapt. I think to swap to the 4.0 style takes a little welding to get the new core support in. That might make it too much for you if you don't have access to welding equipment. I can't tell you to get a rad from a 2.8 V6 because it uses the same rad as the 2.5 I4. You might try using some "water wetter" in the coolant. You can get it at most parts stores. Racers use it to drop temps as it make the surface tension of the water differant so it transfers heat better. You might check to see if your cooling fan clutch is working too. If it aint kicking in you may not get enough cooling air. Might also be time for a new water pump, and thermostat too. You should be OK with a stock radiator even under your conditions. Try a few things before throwing too much money at it for a high dollar rad. Good luck.

Any number of things could cause death wobble, and though Caster angle doesnt cause it, it can make it easier for it to start. If they didnt adjust the caster with the adjustable lower arms then it may not have enough. AND even if a tire seems to be balanced well, it might still have just enough of a wobble to get the DW going. Try rotating the tires front to back (if you get it) and just going over evrything real well. ALSO... many here will tell you Rusty's ISNT quality stuff. Good luck.

Not worth the money for our trucks. The best plugs for our motors are OEM coppers. Sometimes the high tech plugs can cause running problems in the 4.0 and 2.5. Working in the dealer Ive seen this happen and OEM plugs take care of the problem.

Update: Recently the pump I bought went bad. I'm not sure it was all good to begin with as it always made a bit of noise. I replaced the pump and would have been OK, but I was never happy with the Caravan resevior as the large supply hose to the pump was not the correct size on the pump end as the two were different ( res side was larger ). I had a Dodge Journey resevior laying around left over from a recall, and it has the correct size hose connections, and even bolted up in place of the Caravan resevior. It has been working well and is a much better alternative.

There are a couple of versions of this switch. You can see the three vac lines at the back of it and wires for backlighting. This switch will aplly vac in both directions depending upon switch position. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-jee ... 0006035636

Other than a little extra weight, the V8 tie rod is externally the same as your stock rod. There really is no con to using it. As far as track bar, if yours is original, there is no adjustment. Just replace it. Others may chime in as to which brand may be better. When you replace it, check the frame side bracket for tightness as well, and youll be good.

The 46RE is just a TF727 with an overdrive and electronic control. When I did the band adjustment on the one I had in my Grand Wagoneer, I don't remember having to deal with a square head band adjuster. The adjustment did make a difference though and it worked great. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/torqueflite.html

Youll need to let this soak for a few days in order for you to get as many replies form people in your area as possible. Not everyone is on everyday, but most who are active will check in at least a few times a week, so don't get discouraged if you don't get answers right away. Good luck on the MJ, and start a build thread!

I hate to say this, but researching this subject on another board, like www.naxja.org might get you more results. Theres a lot more people over there, thus youll be more likely to find some info on a subject like this. All us MJ guys are either too poor, or too content with what we have to mess with aftermarket cams. :( Good luck.

Your O2 sensor is before the cat, so youll be fine if the cat is not there. What would be even better though if you really don't want to run one is to take your existing converter and knock the guts out of it and either sleeve it and reinstall it, or just reinstall it as is, that way if theres ever an issue, you can point to it and say there it is. My boss's MJ is like that (unintentionally) and it runs fine ( its an 88 4.0 auto). My 2.5 has been sleeved and reinstalled and runs great. But if you have a good converter and the engine runs right, theres really no need to mess with it.