dasbulliwagen

I saw the title and thought you hurt yourself again. :fool:

Factory certified Chrysler Dodge Jeep tech, level 3 . And factory certified Mazda tech, senior level.

Id like to see somebody do the header panel vent mod. Very nice! Good score Pete!

The 4 ways pull a heavier electrical load, that may make the old T/S flasher work for now, but I would still take it to the parts store to get a new one. The 4 way that you plugged into the T/S is a heavy duty flasher. This is the same flasher that you would replace the regular flasher with if you had a towing setup and needed it to make the lights flash at normal rate. Get another heavy duty one and youll never have another problem with them.

Looking at my 87 4 cylinder, the answer is yes, but the air intake hose might make it difficult to get to the cap. I think pysically it will bolt up, but I'm not sure if the pulley would be correctly in line. Would be great if someone could try it if they have enough of both engines on hand.... maybe jimoshel can look at one for us??? :wavey:

I guess I was wrong about the resevior too. At least when I was looking for one, I couldnt find any. I saw today that Crown and Quadratech have one listed now. I can get you a part number for it too if you need it.

I had my parts dept look it up at my dealer, the part number is 53003805, cost is $36.25, and it is available to order through dealership Vintage Parts. This is the same pulley I bought for my P/S conversion.

That looks like a V-belt pulley. They were only used in 86 and a few 87 models. I assume you have a serpentine style pulley. If thats the case, and the picture is correct, it won't work for you.

swap the 4 way flasher with the turn signal flasher. If they start working and the 4 ways don't work, then get a new flasher. Ive seen one go bad on my boss's 88 MJ the same way. Let us know what you find.

If you go a little farther south to NC area, Ive seen them in the 3-4000 range for clean examples. The older ones usually go for 1500 or less. Go to this website that searches craigslist in multiple areas, and search areas in the south you woulldnt mind driving to, and find your XJ! www.searchtempest.com

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33226 You may have seen it already, but the link above is for a thread with the same question on a 4 cyl MJ.

The pulley spacing is application specific. I would not try it myself unless I had both of them in my hand to measure and compare. Call the dealership tommorow, and see if they can look one up, mention that you read where somebody got one from mopar restoration parts... that might help them to be able to look it up.

Love the project, but that track bar looks pretty scary. I would worry about it bending if you ever go off road with it. And it doesnt look like you could use a drop pitman, it might cause the track bar and drag link to go out of parallel and cause bumpsteer. I think if it were mine, I might go with a really beefy drop bracket for the track bar so it wasnt as bent, and THEN go with a drop pitman to line up the drag link to the track bar. Just my 2 cents. Keep up the good work.

I just talked to my mom in Battle Creek, Michigan... she said they had about 8 inches on the ground. I hope theres more before I drive up there for christmas. It just wouldnt be right to have Christmas without some snow!

I converted mine a while back, but did not have a donor for the pump and resevior. The pump, pressure lines, and return hoses are available, but the pulley and the resevior are not. I found my pulley through the dealership in Mopar restoration parts... I'm not sure if they are still available or not, but NOBODY has a resevior, so if you can find a pump, pulley and resevior used for a 2.5 youll be ahead. I ended up using a resevior from a Dodge Journey as we were doing a recall on them, and one of them got a new recall resevior that didnt need it, so I put it on my truck... the hose sizes are the same as original and making a mounting bracket was easy enough. If youre getting a junkyard steering box, this would be a good time to go with one of the many upgrade units that we can use, I think they come from grand cherokees or dakotas, so do a little research on that and youll end up better than stock. There is an aluminum spacer behind the steering box mount that often breaks when you take it apart, so try to get one of those too if youre getting used parts. This is the best upgrade Ive done to my truck. Good luck!

I doesnt have a normal style IAC, it has an idle solenoid that mounts next to the throttle body, and it has a plunger that pushes on the throttle linkage to idle it up or down as needed for cold start, AC operation, or in response to the power steering pressure switch. I don't have a pic, otherwise Id put one up for you.

To expand on what Pete said, youll need a trans from an XJ or MJ with a 2.5 in it. Ones from a 4.0 will not bolt up without a rare and difficult to find 2.5 Dakota bellhousing or an expensive adapter kit. 2.5 XJ/MJ's with a 2.5 and a 5 speed usually came with 4:10 geared axles and would be perfect for a 4wd swap.

The CV shafts from a WJ will not work, but ones from a ZJ will, though you may need to knock off the ABS tone ring if the CV shaft has one. In my experience at the dealership, Ive never seen a complete failure of a CV joint in a ZJ or WJ dana 30, but I often see boot problems which usually lead to shaft replacement, so that would be an area to keep an eye on.

You need to look at fuel pressure and look for vacuum leaks, and if it sputters like mine did, it needs an oxygen sensor, you may also look to see if the converter is plugged, if you have good fuel, or if theres water in the fuel, change the crank sensor just because.... just changing to a carb is not going to solve all your problems, and in some places it is illegal. I'm not trying to sound harsh, but changing to a carb is not the answer. Start going through things one peice at a time, and eliminating items that might cause this. Be smart about it, and don't be afraid to ask for help here. Good luck.

I know this may be off topic, and that the OP is looking to match 97 plus to the rear, but here's some pics I stole from somewhere of a guy who did a set off of a Chevy pickup.... modern looking and may be able make work with the 97 plus style.... just my 2 cents.

The sight of the snow like that makes me miss living in Michigan. Its a rarity like that where I'm at now. Enjoy it!

Welcome. If you don't know what CPS is, it is the crankshaft position sensor, and is a common failure point considering failure to start sometimes. It mounts on the transmission bellhousing near the top on the driver side. If the trans was replaced, and the shop did not remove this, they may have damaged it... get a new one either from a dealer or wherever else. It has been told that the dealer has discontinued these, but some are still available. I'm a Jeep dealer tech, and for your truck, I do not beleive that going to the dealer for a computer scan will help you at all. Most dealers anymore no longer have the correct cables to plug into your truck, and on top of that, the Renix system doesnt keep memory, so codes do not get stored if a problem arises. As was said, working with us and with a multimeter, you can figure out whatever you need on this system. It also sounds like you are doing a lot of possibly unnecessary work. There arent that many relays to go through involving engine running, but it is possible that with age some of them are corroded and not working properly. I ran into this on my boss's MJ... the AC relay was corroded inside and would no longer make good contact making his AC not work... easy fix, but took a while to figure out. Many things on the MJ are like that, just be patient, and ask for help. Another thing that could cause running issues is the oxygen sensor. Its also an easy fix and was reccomended by the factory to be replaced every so often for good running. On many of the trucks the factory mounted a timer under the dash to make a light come on at a predetermined time or milage to make you replace the o2 sensor. Its relatively cheap and can make a huge difference in the way your truck runs. Age and milage will also be a factor in the fuel injectors. If you get to the point of replacing those, ask around first, as there are some upgrades that can be done here for the same price or less as new injectors. Running some fuel system cleaner through can't hurt anything either. Good luck and feel free to keep asking any and all questions that may come up.

Why is is when anybody mentions a swap, with a motor they have available to them, somebody always says to put a 350 in it???? Yes maybe adapter parts are more readilly available, but thats not the point or the original posters question. I think Advance adapters has a kit for the 302, but you would have to look it up to be sure. If an adapter is available, then an AX15 or NV3500 setup from an XJ would be best as you wouldnt have to worry about making them fit. Making the electrics work with the Jeep will be the hard part. You may be able to find more info on a swap like this on www.greatlakes4x4.com . They are much bigger sites with a much broader range of info on topics like this that are a little out of the ordinary for our sweet little home, comancheclub. Good luck, and let us know what you end up doing!

Your biggest issue with the selectrac out of the 84 will be all the vacuum hoses and routing them all correctly. The NP228 has a butload of vac hoses to deal with, along with the sliding lever actuator. Youll either need to take very carefull notes as to routing of these hoses when you take it apart, or find a good diagram so you can put it all back together correctly when the swap is finished. And like was said, both these vehicles may have the same axle gearing, so that might save you from having to weld new perches on the 84 XJ rear axle. Confirm what the gears are in both vehicles and go from there. Good luck.

If it was lifted and didnt have a proper front end alignment, the wheels will toed in, which could cause death wobble, and the caster angle probably wasnt changed as that can make death wobble start easilly if there are any other factors like bad toe, or wheel imbalance to set it off. Also, if it doesnt have an adjustable track bar, the axle will be shifted over to one side... a sure sign of a cheap out lift! Get it home and we can help you straighten this thing out! Good luck.