dasbulliwagen

If you look closely, you can see the "43" on the headlight doors. And the headlight doors are hinged at the bottom, and fold in to reveal solid mounted projector lamps and marker lamps. I tried to get pics of that, but they shut them back off before I had a chance. But I agree, it does need a big "43" on the doors!

Petty's Garage brought in their newest project to us the other day to figure out an airbag light. I didnt get to see the interior, but from what I hear, there really is no panel on it left untouched. They had to keep it on the rollback because the front splitter spoiler on it is so low, they need a loading dock to be able to unload it. Thought some of you MOPAR guys would enjoy this.

The kit isnt in the catalog yet, but it should be on the MOPAR website. Unless the dealer parts guy is a gearhead like we are, they probably wouldnt know anything about the kit. You should be able to go to MOPAR.com and find the kit and the part number, take the part number to whatever dealer, and they can order it for you. I think list is supposed to be $5500, and knowing Chrycos parts markups, any parts dept should be more than happy to order one for you.

:agree:

It may not look pretty, but it still appears usable. Ive seen much worse than yours still working fine. If you can't find one, just keep using yours till one comes along if youre really that worried about it.

Driving north on I-85 between Salisbury, NC and Lexington, NC I spotted a Comanche in heavy traffic in the right lane. I really didnt see it till I was about 30-40 foot from him, but as I'm coming around him in the left lane, I saw it had grapics (stickers) on it with the words "HONCHO II" embedded in it, and "HONCHO II" lettering on the tailgate. It was a white shortbed. The way traffic was going, I couldnt slow up or stay near him long enough to get any more details. And eveidently he wasnt on the highway long after that becasue I slowed up when I could to see if I could get him to catch up, but I never saw it again after that. It happened too quick to get a pic as well. Has anyone seen one like this before. I assume it was a dealer installed sticker as Ive never seen one like it mentioned here before.

I went to school with a guy like this starting toward the end of elementary. He was kind of a fat kid but was a real sports fanatic and was a real a hole. When puberty hit, he went out for football, and by senior year he was a big well built a hole. He is now an officer as well and I can imagine him acting like this when someone pisses him off. I agree, no one with that kind of attitude should have a job of power like he has. The driver gave him no reason to act like he did. And as usually happens, he will end up keeping his job, or working the same job somewhere else. I don't have anything against cops, but the job seems to attract guys like this who give all the rest of them a bad name. Ive had more than my fair share of experiences with them over the years (Speeding only) and have only ever had one (or maybe two) be an @$$ when it wasnt deserved. If this guy is going to keep doing law enforcement, he need to get his attitiude in check, and have brains enough to know when to apply force like he did here.

Sounds a lot like the old VW autostick. It had a 3 speed manual, a vacuum actuated clutch, and a torque converter. I had one in a 1972 Karmann Ghia I once owned. I can't see any manufacturers making one ever again due to its lack of efficiency. Most maufacturers are currently doing away with the CVT trannys as well for the same reason. Most now are going to a dual dry clutch system, that uses a small hydraulic circuit to actuate two clutches back and forth to change gears. You have an even gears clutch, and an odd gears clutch, and an electronic gear selector. These build less heat than an auto, and MUCH less heat that a CVT.

I don't think he means sway bar. But the tie rod should be a direct bolt in, yes, then do a quick alignment.

NP205???? Should be an NP 207.

Is it worth it in Michigan? Thats debateable. You only get one or two really hot weeks per year... I know, I grew up there. I converted mine, but I'm in the south and it has been wonderful having it. When it gets down to a low of 80 overnight, youre glad you have AC, but in Mich, it isnt like that, so I could see iot going either way. If you do it, it will make your truck worth more if you ever resell, so it depends on if you want to spend the time on it.

If the wrangler gets a diesel, it will be a 4 cylinder. I can't see them putting the 3.0 in it.

Going to Chrysler trainings for the dealership, they say there are diesels in the works, a V6 from VM I think to replace the MB with better power and milage at a lower cost, the VM 4 cyl, and some Fiat diesels are in consideration and testing. And they say Cummins is bringing a diesel V8 to the Ram 1500 soon as well.

http://www.allpar.com/news/index.php/20 ... now-online

THAT WAS GREAT!!! LOVED THE FINISH!

I can't tell you anything about the Jeep dogdish hubcap wheels, other than to get old original to the dogdish wheels and get wheel adapters for the MJ. Other than that, the 17" steel wheels off a Dodge Charger or Chrysler 300 will accept the Comanche steel wheels centercap. I'm not sure that would be retro enough for you though or the look youre going after. WHeel adapters might be just what you need to get the look you want.

Will the guts interchange? Might still be worth it just for the parts.

In NC, you can pay a lawyer $150-$200 to get your ticket knocked down to improper equipment, with a fine of $25 plus court cost and no points for your insurance. Its a huge racket for the lawyers, but gets you back in the green with insurance.

Had a run in with the North Carolina State Police yesterday, so looks like most of my spare change will go to lawyer costs to get out of this ticket... 80 in a 65. Ill just have to keep saving my scrap metal, and do this later.

I'm not sure Ive ever seen DB's for sale used, especially MJ specific ones. And getting wheels with the backspacing you want is difficult. This is a mostly street driven rig, and I want stuff to be right, but I know what youre saying.

Ive got a few hundred to spend on the MJ, and I have a few things I'm considering. I'm thinking about control arm drop brackets for a future lift, but I'm also thinking about a set of wheels for when I go wider with tires. Or should I just keep saving up and get a full lift kit. I'm not sure of the last one, as I'm thinking I'm gonna need to do this bit by bit. The spring over in the rear won't cost much except for shocks, but I want to do the front right, and control arm drops are the way I want to do it, probably with adjustable arms. I already have an adjustable track bar which is turned all the way in, but will need springs and shocks as well. It will be easiest to do it a peice at a time, but I'm not sure what I should get first. I'm thinking if I can find wheels cheap enough that might be the way to go, as the drop brackets are only $200, and might be easier to get later. I'm gonna need tires next year anyways so I might change my mind in size if I have wheels already. WHat do you think?

The actual training is included in the dealership license, but whats not paid for is travel expenses and hotel rooms. That and I really don't think they give a crap about the Mazda franchise anymore, as we only have 6 new cars on the lot. Kinda sad, because Ive seen Mazda dealers in towns a whole lot smaller than our that are huge in comparison. If they don't do anything to push the product,then they arent going to sell anything. That, and the way people shop nowadays.... by going to the company website, building their car, and searching dealer inventories.... that just puts us out of the game if we have little inventory. You can't sell them if we don't have any. I don't understand these people sometimes.

Ive been a Chrysler Dodge Jeep dealer tech for 5 years now, and a couple years ago I had the chance to cross train into Mazda as a backup to our one Mazda only tech. In the time since I was Mazda certified, I have been unable to really get any experience working on these cars, and little experience with the Ford based scan tool. And as many of you know, Mazda likes to use wierd and different engines, like the Miller cycle engine in the Millenia-S, and the rotaries in the RX cars. My limited experience hasnt been an issue... until now. Our Mazda only tech decided he wanted more money, so he had been playing a job offer from another dealer to negotiate more money for himself. It came down to him getting ready to go on a two week vacation, and being offered more money to stay with us, which he accepted. So he went on vacation, and the day he was supposed to come back, last monday, he didnt show for work. He came in Tuesday, said that he quit, and loaded his toolbox, eveidently using his better offer here, to get even more from whoever he is going to. Thats leaves me with all his leftover garbage, and no real experience on working on these cars. I know I can figure them out, but being thrown into it like this had me nervous and worried. We don't do a ton of Mazda work to begin with, but still... I don't like the situation. On top of all that, our dealer owner has suspended all ongoing Mazda factory training, so at least at this point, Ill be unable to take needed classes on the rotary engine, and new technology updates. Just had to vent... Thanks!

The old R12 parts will work just fine with adapters put on the high and low side charge ports. You just need to make sure you put it on a good long vacuum to get all the old oil out. Mine has been working well like this.

Correct, you do need pressure in the system for it to turn on, but if its not cooling, it may not be enough pressure to operate properly. I had a full size Dodge doing that today, the compressor came on and off fairly normally, but it wouldnt cool, only had less than half of the amount of refrigerant that it should have had. So you need to check that as well.