dasbulliwagen

I didn't realize you were one of those people. I havent put a new post on facebook in more than a year now. I just use it to keep up with family, as I live 800 miles from all of them. I'm not one that posts every thing I do on there like some people. I don't see how some of them find the time to do as much as they do.... its crazy. I just thought this would be a good funny to post. :thumbsup:

The 1990 models didnt have too many codes to give to begin with, but SOME dealers may still have the cords and card needed to plug a DRB III into it to get some info. It will cost you probably $85 or so for the diagnostic fee to read the codes if there are any there. Those models didnt have good memory so every time it gets shut off, it looses whatever codes may have been set, and needs to start over again at next restart. Good luck.

I just made this my facebook status!

don't forget to do an alignment after installing ANY spacer. Your toe will be screwed up after install and make death wobble more likely to happen. You may need to adjust caster as well as youll have a little less of it too.. Good luck.

Please PM me your address, so I can mail something next week.... maybe Ill even put in some extra for the stickers Ive been wanting. Thanks!

I have yet to post it in my build, but I did my door panels that were tan from a Waggy to black using the Krylon plastic paint. I did all parts of the panel including the carpet, fabric and armrest. All the parts turned out great, except the armrests because of their material took FOREVER to dry without being sticky. They have held up well for about two years now, but the armrest parts are just about ready to be sprayed again. They have a few little scuffs on them from use, but are otherwise OK.

I have also found this to be true. Most of the owners are older guys who just need a truck to run around in and haul crap with. Youd be lucky if any of them even own a computer, let alone want to use their time to mess with a forum.

Mine had issues like yours until I replaced the oxygen sensor. Try that.

Ran the door VIN through Chrysler.... its an XJ door, 100%. Sorry guys! Though I'm sure we already came to that conclusion.

With the filler neck being disconnected like that you should have gotten some eveap codes too, like Gross EVAP leak or large leak detected. That might have helped track down the problem sooner. When doing a visual check, thats always one of the places I look to make sure everything is hooked up right. Good job on figuring it out though!

Its not legal, but you could, as was said, swap the dashboard, and the driver door with the VIN sticker, and tell the state it was like that all along. Then youd have a shortbed with a title. I'm not sure how strict the state is where youre at as far as checking vehicles over when getting plates, but it is a possibility. The other option are like was said, bob the bed... which takes a lot of fab skill and bodywork experience, or shorten the rear subframe to match that of a SWB and install a shortbed.... this would take even more fab skills than the bob job, but it has been done. Good luck. EDIT: I just now saw that youre in NC. All your vehicle gets is a safety inspection. As long as the old title is already in NC, and you get it put in your name, other than the safety and tampering inspection, you should be fine as for switching the dash. I don't see anyone questioning it as it is still a Comanche. The only thing would be the difference in emmisions equipment between the model years that needs to be reported when doing an inspection. If you have a buddy that is an inspector, then you shouldnt have a problem getting it through.

You are talking about 6 cylinder trans and gearing. He wants to keep his 4 cylinder and will be looking for a 4 cyl Cherokee. I'm not sure what gearing 4cyl autos came with in 89, but if its not compatible with the gearing from the cherokee, you want to consider doing the cherokee rear axle anyways. A 4 cyl 5speed Cherokee should have 4:10's, your auto 4 cyl might have that too, but will need to be confirmed before doing the swap to see if youll need the rear axle or not. If you really want to upgrade, find as new a model Cherokee as possible, and swap out the port fuel injection and computer and harness for a little extra 2.5 power. Good luck.

YOU ARE SO AWESOME!!! I always love to see what youre going to say next. Thanks!

Your camber may not be an issue, sounds to me more like a track bar issue. The camber could be a visual effect and not really be bad, but you won't know for sure without a professional alignment machine. Assuming your camber is ok, and adjustable track bar might get the axle back to being centered up. I'm not sure what if any lift you have, but a combination of some lift, bad caster and toe in may cause it look and act like youre describing.... that or its bent from the accident.... get it checked out, and let us know what you find.

I agree with a budget or no boost and 31's. You could go to 32's, but then 5th gear would be all but useless. By using a tire size to gear table I calculated that 32's would be VERY close with 4:10 gears to my original tire size and 3:55 gears that came originally in my 4 speed truck. The AX4 and AX5 have the same gears 1-4, so staying in that range should keep you at original style gearing. You would need a speedo gear from a 3:55 geared truck to keep the speedo accurate with 32's and 4:10 gearing.... just you wouldnt get to use 5th much if at all. But like I said, that would make it the same as a 4 speed truck, so thats OK. Good luck.

No I don't think there should be infinite resistance. Circuits that run all the time, like clocks, or radio memory will show a resistance value from positive to negeative like that. Or if you have a door open youll get resistance through a light bulb circuit.

PM me your milage and full VIN and Ill see what I can get for you. If your truck is before 88 I won't be able to get much info for you, but the later models I can get a full build sheet on. I'm a Jeep dealer tech, just so you know, I'm not trying to be a wierdo to get your info! :thumbsup:

Wasnt there a recall on the steering shafts? I remember this page from the other day. http://www.jeep-comanche.com/comanche-recall.asp I'm not sure it applies to 87 models or not. And being a Jeep dealer tech I looked it up for you. Chrysler has your Jeep listed, but has very little info on it. It is showing NO open or closed recalls, though chrysler may not have had access to that info before the AMC purchase. I do see the original selling dealer... Selling Dealer: 23969 - FRANK GRIFFIN JEEP EAGLE CHRYS Sales Type: 1 - DIRECT RETAIL City: JACKSONVILLE State/Province: FL Country: USA Telephone: (904)737-1520, and last known owner. Your build date is: April 16, 1987 Edit... I got your VIN from the registry.

I have JK shocks all around on mine. It only took some minor mods to make them fit. Like was said, youll need to put the bar pins in the front lowers. I think youll need to press out the steel spacer thats in there alread in order to install the pins. Same goes for the rear. some of the steel spacers will need to be removed in order to fit the MJ mount on the leaf spring. I can't remember what it took for the top of the rears, if anything. They ride fine, but I think the rears might be a tad short. I had to unbolt the shocks in order to get full droop enough to install longer rear shackles to make up for the 4wd springs and extra isolator I installed in the front.

I don't have experience with the 4.0's, but I guess I got lucky with the 2.5. The FSM showed the 2.5's to have a connector especially for adding dealer installed air. Those wires were allready attached to all the wiring needed in the dash, and I just plugged up my donor airbox wiring to the dash connector for it, and then added the needed relay under the hood to power the compressor, and run the green wires for the pressure switch. The compressor wire is the only wire under the hood that was already existing besides the connector for dealer installed. Somewhere on here is an 88 FSM. That might help you with making the needed wiring for your truck. ait helped with my 87 with donor parts from an 86. Good luck.

Its not so much and IAC as it is throttle positioner. It mounts next to the throttle body, and has a rod from it to the throttle arm to push on it. It is round, maybe the size of a "D" battery with a 2-3 inch rod coming out the middle to the throttle arm. Hope this helps.

The 2.5 TBI's have an electronic solenoid that pushes the throttle open when needed for AC operation or high power steering pressure. You might look at it to see if it is working properly and fully returning.

Ive never heard of the park brakes on the MJ's having a recall. I know the Yj wranglers had a recall on them though and they are very similar. I kept one from a wrangler that I did a recall on and have been meaning to compare them closely, but havent yet. I might try to do that tommorow if I remember. If they are the close to being the same, I know that Chrysler still stocks the YJ park brakes because of the recall. If they are close enough, they would be a good replacement for those needing a fix. Ill try to see what I can find out tommorow.

All I have is this page I saved a while back. Lots of good info. Hope it helps. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Pro ... ect_XJ.htm

As far as I know, any year 2.5 SHOULD bolt in to your truck as long as you swap over the intake and all electronics. The only difference in the exhaust manifolds is the EGR port. New manifolds come with a plug for that port if you don't use if for the MPI style. The head ports and accessory bolt up should be the same between all years as there is no mention of a cylinder head redesign for the 2.5 like there was for the 4.0 when Chysler installed their system.