dasbulliwagen

And now youre going to pimp it out and turn it into a drift car, right?

http://greensboro.craigslist.org/cto/2844897350.html

I'm a dealer tech, if you PM the VIN to me Ill look it up through Chrysler. I think they started giving better information on these starting in 89. The older ones I can't get much info on. Good luck.

Just FYI... it would have had a plug originally, someone probably cut it off, but then again 86-87 plug is different than the newer chrysler style. Mine was originally radio delete, but I was able to plug and play one from an 86... all the wiring and plug was already there.

The Trabant has a cool factor to it for some reason... maybe its the two stroke engine, maybe it because the body is made of some wierd plastic. I don't know. I think it would be cool to have one too. But I don't think that the Yugo will ever have that mystique. Might be funny to fully restore it and take it to car shows though just for fun.... to get peoples reactions.

I think Hellcreek springs has dealt with overseas shipping before. If you contact them I'm sure they could set you up with some 4 inch springs for the stock spring under setup.

The A904 isnt a bad trans. Its not quite as good as an AW4, but it isnt bad. It is a smaller version of the TF-727 from Chrysler. There are a couple of upgrades to do if you decide to rebuild. If you do some searches youll come with a lot of different stuff for this family of trans. I think one of the upgrades has to do with a 2-3 shift overlap. A rebuild kit is relatively cheap if you are up to doing it yourself. I have one in an 86 Waggy parts vehicle that I want to rebuild for my other Comanche. Its a relatively simple trans, and as much as I fear rebuilding an auto trans, I would tackle one of these with some confidence. This might be a better alternative than trying to find a 2.5 AW4. Good luck. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/727transmission.htm http://www.mopartsracing.com/parts/auto.html

THAT POOR GHIA!!!! Being a huge air cooled VW fan, I hate to see a Karmann Ghia in that kind of shape. Ive had a couple of them over the years and would love to have another. But until then Ill have to be satisfied with my daughter Ghia. Sorry... off topic.

http://greensboro.craigslist.org/pts/2838983326.html i have a 1997 cummins 4bt engine out of a good running freightliner stepvan that i just pulled out last night (2/6/12) it is still bolted to a ford adapter plate and borg warner steel cased t-18 4 speed 2wd manual transmission. this is a complete unit with every thing on motor including intercooler, radiator, powersteering pump, waste gated turbo, down pipe, and even has wiring harness still hooked up where all you have to do is hook the cables to a battery and ignition switch. this engine has the highly desirable p7100 inline injection pump that is capable of making LOTS!!!! of horsepower with very few mods and free adjustments to the injection pump that i can show you how to do. this would be a great swap for a hot rod, rat rod, jeep, or just make a great MPG truck. if you want everything like it sits complete it is $3,500 or if i have to i can sell just the complete diesel engine for $3,000 and ford adapter plate and starter for $500 and t-18 manual for $400. please call (336)669-8790 for questions and intrest. thanks, and god bless. Tyler

Would Dzus fasteners work in a situation like this? They sit flush. Might be something to look into.

Even with full coverage, the insurance company will only give you what they think it is worth, and being an old truck, and lower value, it won't take much for them to want to total it and leave you with a salvage title assuming you buy it back. You may want to look into agreed value coverage. You might need receipts or documentation of work youve done, but if you have $10,000 into your truck that might have a book value of $1500, then an agreed higher value may be better for you to replace mods that have been done in the event of a true total of the truck.

The AX5 from a 2.8 will bolt right to a 2.5.... they have the same bellhousing. the only thing different might be the throwout bearing... the rest is the same. I have a 2.8 AX5 ready to go into my 2.5 truck. The 2.8 bellhousing will also be external slave. If you have an internal and want to keep it, youll need to swap bellhousings, or get an external slave setup.

I'm Coming up on 350,000.... Ill have pics for you when it happens!

If you don't mind a bit of country, look up Hank Williams III. Looks just like Hank 1, sounds a bit like him, but is much dirtier and grittier. Good stuff!

The price sounds reasonable if he can provide proof and paperwork that it was done. If not It might still be OK if you really need it.

If the recall thing doesnt work out for you, and you can't find used ones reasonable, the park brake from a YJ jeep is very similar. I havent checked to see if they mount up the same or not, but the YJ's also had the recall and are still available new from the dealership. Ive done a couple of them recently under recall and even kept one of the removed ones to try to see if they match up if I ever have a problem with mine. I havent had any problems yet, so have not taken the time to see how different if any there is to mounting it up. If it comes down to it, PM me, and Ill make sure to do a side by side comparison for you.

Your signature says soon to be 350. Do you have those parts already, or are you looking for something to just get you going right now. If you just need to get going again, another AX5 would be the easiest. If you want a trans that will work for you now and hold up to a 350 later, I would look for an AX15 or an NV3500 to adapt on with a Dakota 2.5 bellhousing. That will get you ready for later in your project and be a huge upgrade to boot. With the AX15 or NV3500 youll need to have your driveshaft shortened most likely as well, and you may also need the trans crossmmember for an AX15 if going that route. Good luck.

The auto A904 is a non electronic trans, so it would just be a matter of getting all the parts needed to bolt on. Youll need the trans, flywheel, clutch kit, clutch master and slave, trans crossmember, driveshafts, pedals and shifters to make this happen. Good luck.

You can still do a resto mod, restore the outward appearance and upgrade underneath where you can to gain performance or reliability. Like doing a WJ or 96XJ brake booster upgrade. Upgrading the front brakes with WJ knuckles, rotors and calipers. Putting in a V8 ZJ front sway bar. Electric cooling fan upgrades. If you have a 4.0 you can swap injectors for some ford style injectors for better atomization and efficiency. Swapping the dana 35 out for a ford 8.8 with disc brakes and a limited slip.... these are all things you can do to improve your truck without going all out custom while keeping the appearnace of a stock truck. I'm sure there are many more things you can do too. Just look through the DIY writeups and go to town. I'm doing my truck a similar way. Small lift, added AC, PS, PW, PL, clock, lighter... stuff like that, most of which can be had from a cherokee. A wheel swap for a cherokee is good too... you keep it jeep, but get better wheels. It all depends on what you like. Let us know what you come up with.

I installed a Jeep WJ fan with a fan controller. I used two seperate Jeep 2.8 fan shrouds and custom cut them to fit around the WJ fan and epoxied it all together. I think used the top halves of both 2.8 shrouds to make it fit the rad better and clear the rad hoses. I used the 2.8 shrouds because I didnt want to cut my 2.5 one in case I needed to go back to original with it in case this didnt work. The WJ fan is pretty slim and draws a lot of air. Ive had it on for a couple years now with no problems. I didnt need to move the rad, but couldnt anyways as Ive also installed AC.

I'm not sure if the alum cover needs a special gasket or not, but with the plastic ones, there were two choices depending on which bolts you had to hold the cover on with. It may be the same for the alum cover. There is a bolt that has a shoulder that goes through the gasket to prevent overtightening, and then there is a shoulderless bolt. I assume the shoulderless bolt has the tightening limiters built into the gasket. Thats the route I would take if I were you. Just see what bolts you have and order appropriately. Good luck.

I didnt look at who posted this before I read it. Got to the end, thinking... I hope this guy isnt serious! Then I saw who it was. :cheers:

Or you could call one of those paintless dent repair guys. Ive seen them do miracles before and they love a good hail dent.... smooth flat surface with no edges or angles is what they are best at. can't hurt to get an estimate and find out what youre looking at.

I used a fan from a WJ, and adapted it to a couple of 2.8 fan shrouds I had layong around. I epoxied it all together and bolted the shroud/fan assy up as if it were stock, then wired it up with a fan controller. Has been working great for quite a while now. This way there has never been an issue with rad damage.

X2 Doesn't matter how good of deal they are if you can't use them. All D44s are not the same. Depending on what they came out of, the front could have a passenger side or driver side diff. If its a passenegr side diff, it won't adapt to the MJ without also changing to a passenger drop transfer case. But for that price, Id get them anyways and re sell the front if you can't use it. You could easilly double your money or better selling to the right person.