dasbulliwagen

I don't think I would let that guy do ANYTHING to my truck ever again. What an idiot! Does he not understand that if you keep going positive, it will never get back to zero???

I can't remember where I stole this from, but I just had to put it up here for everybodys enjoyment.

From what I know about the Webers, they are jetted to be close for specific applications. Theres no telling what the Motorcraft has in it or if youll ever be able to tune it properly for your application. I would stick with the Weber.

Whenever that happens to me, Ive found that it is the fuse for the guages. Mine is a little corroded due to age, and wiggling it around a little makes everything work again.

I'm not sure about Jaspers current reputation, but the previous owner of my MJ put in a Jasper at 140,000 miles. The truck is currently at 351,000 miles. Thats 210,000 miles on a rebulit engine and its still running great. If you don't feel right with Jasper, then as was previously stated, my next best choice would be factory crate, or a local rebuild of what you already have by a longstanding shop with a good reputation for standing behind their work. Good luck, and start us a build thread!

I agree, thats the way to go. Ive also done one on a 258, and have done a few on air cooled VW's, and a buddy just did one on a Toyota 22R. Go for it!

I agree, the WJ front conversion would be the way to go. Youll need to make sure you get knuckles from a 2wd WJ so you have the right stub axles to keep the bearings together. Though the WJ has a different bolt pattern than the MJ, so that will have to be adressed with either adapters, or having the the rotors and hubs redrilled for the correct pattern. Another issue is that your 15 inch wheels may no longer fit over the calipers, so some 16 or 17's may be in order. One option might be to retain the WJ front bolt pattern, and use adapters on the rear, as the MJ rear is a little narrower than the front already, and then use a set of WJ wheels all around. If doing this, youll also want to swap to a WJ brake booster and master cylinder, or 96 XJ dual diaphragm booster and master and do away with the rear height sensing brake valve, and install a normal or adjustable proportioning valve. This combo will make a huge improvement over stock. And if you could get rear discs too, that would be even better. There are ways to do all this. Good luck

Are you going to make Dorthy 3/4 scale to match the truck??? :hmm:

Ive had the O2 sensor give me fits like that before, idles fine, but starts to spit and sputter. Mine is a 2.5, but still a renix system. That might be something to try as well. Some of the trucks had emmissions timers on them to get you to change your 02 sensor. Most timers been removed by now, but the factory did want the O2 sensor to be a regular maint item.

here's a killer list from Naxja. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... d+upgrades

I forgot to mention the core support. If youre in for all it takes, I say go for it. I love seeing them like that, even considered it myself for a little while.... until I found out what a used 4BT cost!! Good luck! Start a build thread so we can all drool!

Before I say anything else, please know I'm not trying to be an azz here, just trying to make sure you know what youre getting into in the nicest way possible..... You say that swapping in a 4.0 is too much, but you think that finding a 4BT will be OK? This doesnt make sense. All the work that will be needed to make a 4bt work in a Comanche is going to far above harder than swapping a 4.0 in. The frame stiffening, the lift kit to clear the oil pan, the custom made wiring harness and guage package, the custom made fuel system, custom mounts for the trans and engine, custom driveshafts.... it goes on and on. Unless you have full free access to a machine and fab shop, youll have $10,000 into this thing by the time you get it roadworthy. A 4.0 swap is easier because all you need is a running driving cherokee donor, and you swap it all over. The 86 may or may not need minor firewall massaging to clear the back of the engine, and everything Ive read about that says that its easy to do, and no big deal. If you find a 4.0 Wagoneer donor, you may not even need to modify the rear lights harness. I'm not saying that the diesel wouldnt be cool, just that for most people this swap is expensive and impractical. Please, think long and hard before attempting this.

One thing I remember from that, is that it ate AX5's for breakfast. If I were going this route, the dakota 2.5 bellhousing and AX15 would be a must have.

That thing would lokk awesome with the gold ZJ snowflake rims, or the gold lace style rims. Nice find.

Got it home today. I can't wait to start playing! Still need to get the accessories first, like a helmet. That helmet thread came just in time! Ill show later what I needed it for. thanks for the input!

You don't want caster to go negative. You want caster to be 6.5-7.5 degrees POSITIVE.

I had the no guages issue before. It ended up being the "GUAGES" fuse in the fuse box not making good contact due to corrosion buildup. At one point I would be driving along, they would go out, and I would stick my foot up in the fuse box area to touch them to get them working again. See if that makes a differance before pulling too much stuff out. Good luck.

Yours being an 87 2wd, it won't have unit bearings, it will have a spindle, and inner and outer tapered wheel bearings. You need to check these as well. The tire movement by hand could be caused by them or like was said, the ball joints. I wouldnt bother getting an alignment untill both of those items are checked and made right. If the tire moves like that, an alignment won't be accurate. And tire balance and caster angle are very important, so whoever you have do your alignment, make sure they check and adjust the caster. Most places will just set toe and let it go. So double check that and make sure they do it. On your 87, caster is adjusted by shims at the rear of the lower control arm. I think spec is 6.5-7.5 degrees. I had issues with mine getting DW, and finally did the caster adjustment. It was way under, at around 4 degrees, I was able to get it to 6 degrees with as much adjustment as I could put in it, and I have not had DW since. If you can't get enough caster with the shims, you may need to look into getting some adjustable control arms. Good luck and let us know what happens.

I bought mine new at the dealer. They still had them listed when I bought it, maybe 5 years ago. fit perfectly and has worked great ever since.

Here's other pics from 2009 through out forum: 2007 After those forst pics' date=' I did end up swapping on the doors too, but I removed the woodgrain. Not really the look I was going for. The door panels were the wrong color for my truck, so I got some of the Krylon plastic paint and painted/stained them satin black to match the rest of the interior. They turned out great and have been holding up well. I love having power windows and locks too. I could still wire up the power mirrors, but the ones I have don't work, so I'm not too worried about them right now. Here are some pics of the 86 Waggy donor. It was spotless when traded in during cash for clunkers. The paint even matched my truck. [img'][/img]

Welcome to the madness. Sounds like a nice tuck, and I agree with trying to find a title... there are ways to do it. And... just so you know. Your truck is most likely an 86 model. There were no 85 model Comanches. 86 was the first year and they were long bed only. There were three engine choices available in 86. The 2.5 4 cyl, the 2.1 4 cyl Diesel, and the 2.8 GM V6. Which engine does your have? If it has the 2.8 V6 and its bad, there are other bolt in options to replace it that are better, like the 3.1 or 3.4 GM V6 from a Camaro or Firebird. They have the same block, and all the 2.8 parts will transfer over making it almost a direct fit, though I think your 2.8 flywheel or flexplate would need to be neutrally balanced. Again, Welcome, and don't be afraid to ask ANY questions.

I think Ive setled on The Hobart. Ill making the trip to tractor supply this weekend. Thanks!

The European fuel milage standards are calculated differently than ours, thus making them look much better than US standards, which really isnt the case.

I finnally scraped enough scrap metal money together to buy the welder I want. I'm looking at the Hobart handler 140 at Tractor supply, and the Lincoln equivqlent at Lowes. They are within $25 of each other on price with the Lincoln being more expensive. These are 115 Volt welders that can do either gas or non gas wire welding. Have any of yous guys had any experience with these models? I'm ready to pull the trigger real soon, so any help would be appreciated.

86 and 87 MJ's with the 4 cylinder, and manual trans came with the NP207 transfer case. I think they changed to the NP 231 after that, but I'm not 100 percent sure. If you swap in a 5 speed, your 5th gear won't be very usable, as 4 speed MJs usually had 3:55 gears, and 5 speed ones usually had 4:10 gears in the axles. This difference in axle gearing made the final drive speed between the two almost identical if you know what I mean. If you add a 5th gear to 3:55 axles the 2.5 likely won't have enough power to keep up. A swap to 4:10 axles at the same time would be ideal. This is all assuming that any 4x4 trans you get will be 5 speed, as Ive never heard of one being 4 speed. I could be wrong. If they did, I'm sure the 4 speed version would be much harder to find anyways. Good luck.