dasbulliwagen

This has to be one of the most awesome threads ever! I read the copy before looking at the ad, and other than the 12 year old part, I thought that this was a really sentimental person selling his truck! Great ad, and sounds like a cool horse to have. And Jim, you scare us big kids too! At almost 40, theres NO way Id ever mess with you!

Unplug all sensors that tie to the 5 Volt ref circuit. I had it all wrote down yesterday but can't find it now. They included the crank sensor, the map sensor, the cam sensor, throttle pos sensor, trans solenoid at the trans, and AC pressure transducer. Unplug all those, then backproble the 5 volt circuit at the PCM with the key on and measure voltage. If you have 5 volts, you have a sensor issue, if you don't have 5 volts, either the PCM is bad or there a short in the wiring. Pull back some of the covering going to the PCM connector, and cut the 5 volt wire a few inches out. Then recheck the 5 volts with the key on. If you have 5 volts then, the PCM is OK and the wire is shorted somewhere. If not, the PCM is bad. Recheck your wiring diagrams as to which and how many items are on the 5v circuit as your may be different. The 04 WJ I worked on had 2 5v circuits coming out of the PCM in different connectors, and the one bad sensor pulled them both down. Just make sure youre covering all bases and let us know what you find. Oh! And after cutting the wire after diag, youll need to repair it.

The crank sensor was shorted internally. Not sure how. Didnt test it. Just knew that when it was unplugged, everything came back to life. No sense in wasting time testing the sensor itself when you know it is bad. I'm sure if I looked into it, I would be able to tell you what to do, but as was just posted, that has been covered many times in other places. Let us know what you figure out!

Gearwrenches are great, but so is my Bosch Impactor handheld cordless impact gun. Another is a windup three wire gatorclipped test lead set. My little butane torch also comes in handy alot more than I ever thought it would. And playing Pandora at my toolbox through my laptop and a stereo sytem is the best ever!

At my dealership service shop, we have had three dead 4.0L WJ's come in in the last few days with this same issue, and in each case, it was a shorted Crank sensor, pulling down the 5 volt circuits essentially killing the PCM. The first one has had me pulling my hair out trying to figure it out since last week. I had no idea a 5 volt ref circuit shorted out would bring down the whole PCM causing no communication. Lost my but on that job, but learned a lot!

I thought the dual batt tray needed was one from a diesel.

Neons, and PT's... NO, Compass, Caliber, Journey, newr gen 200, Avenger.... YES! This engine is reffered to as the World Engine. They should all be the same either 2.0 or 2.4, just don't mix up 2.0 and 2.4 parts. There are minor differences that will screw things up if you try to mix and match. Stick with a donor the same size as yours. Good luck. Sorry the response took so long, havent been on since last night. Good luck! Let us know what you figure out.

I paid $100 for a running 2.5 with all accessories from a guy in Michigan doing a swap. You just need to keep an eye out, and lurk on several of the Jeep forums and youll usually find one pretty quick.

Will this work???

http://greensboro.craigslist.org/cto/3434558353.html

Not sure if an S10 is driver drop or not, but if it is, you could use a setup from one of them, but then you might have to deal with electronic controls, and have custom front and rear driveshafts made. If you plan on a 4.0 swap, save your money, and buy a running driving donor, and swap it all over. Nice XJs can be had for less than $2000 in most places. Youll need to modify the radiator core support, clearance the firewall, swap out the dash and HVAC box and ALL wiring. If you get a nicely optioned one, you could also have power windows, locks and mirrors among other things. Its a big job, but not horrible, especially if you have a complete donor.

Your trans should be an A904. It is a lighter duty version of the Chrysler 727. I don't think there is a bolt in 4 speed for what you are looking for, though they did make a 4 speed version later on, but I'm not sure if it would be a direct swap for the earlier versions. Here is a link to some info on it. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/torqueflite.html I have one in my 86 Wagoneer parts truck that I plan to rebuild for a future project. There are a couple of updates for that trans as well if youre going to rebuild that you should incorporate. Just do a search for A904 upgrade. It has something to do with eliminating a possible wear point in it where they have two gears slightly applied at the same time to make a smoother shift.... or something like that. Good luck. Just found the other link to upgrades... http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/torqueflite-tom-hand.html

Mine did the sometimes no start thing after I bought it. Ended up the battery terminals just needed a good cleaning.

I personally have found the best way to keep my vehicles from rusting, was to move from Michigan, to North Carolina. Has work wonders for me! Its amazing to be able to take things off of my 26 year old truck and actually have the bolts come out without breaking! Sorry, had to brag.

First off... welcome! Your exhaust rattle may be a bad trans mount on the crossmember. If its collapsed or gone, it will cause exhaust rubbing on the crossmember. Next, your truck has a vacuum tank mounted behind the front bumper. The vac lines run along the firewall to the pass side, then go toward the front and down behind the grille and down to the bumper to the vac tank. You could have a bad peice of hose or a break anywhere along this route. Check all the lines and repair as needed. If this isnt working your 4x4 vacuum disconnect won't work either, assuming its 4 wheel drive. If it is, youll need to check the lines going down to the front axle as well. Good luck and let us know what you find!

I use a flowmaster 50 series. It has an extra chamber so not as loud as a 40, but still has a deep mellow tone, and a nice growl under load. Mine got slightly louder after running it for a while, but nowhere near being obnoxious to anyone. My 2 cents. As for a cat. Most states that have safety only inspections,also check for whats called Tampering. It doesnt go through an emmissions inspection, but is still required to have all original emmissions equipment as installed from the factry. You may want to check into that.

I went throught similar issues with mine when I got it. It ended up being the o2 sensor. Has been great ever since, The factory spec on replacing them was 80,000 miles, so its probably due anyways. Let us know what you figure out.

The 86 2.5 should not be carbed. It has TBI which is like a carb, but not. It will already have a renix computer control system for the TBI. If you swap to port injection, you may as well do the 4.0 swap because it will be almost the same amount of work, including all underhood stuff, and all under dash stuff. As far as the 86 firewall issue, I hear it is a minor issue that can be fixed with a few hammer blows in the right spot for a little extra clearance. Your bigger issue will be swapping on the 4.0 core support for the 4.0 radiator. It requires cutting and welding. Youll also need a later model hood when you do this because the latches are different in 86. I say either go for the whole deal, or just get a good 2.5 longblock for the time being. Anthing in between will be a waste of time and money. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!

I would love to see this done with a dana 30 and 35 and BA10-5 just to see how long it would last!

I still use it all the time. Other than it taking forever to load, it works fine.

What I think of as a 6-71 is just a blower. Is that what youre referring to, or are you getting a whole detroit diesel engine? I would think you could find a manifold somewhere to adapt a 6-71 bower to whatever engine you wanted to. Show us some pics when you get it!

If someone were so motivated, you could fab in a pair of the Dodge Dakota rear window headrests form the crew cab models. They mount to the body above and below the window. Might be an option.

If you need rockers, and do some offroading, a popular mod is to cut the old ones out, and intall 2x6 box steel tubing. They take care of the rocker area and add skid protection, while being thick and tough. Might be an option. Search on here and on www.naxja.org for the mod and youll come up with several builds showing how this is done.

I don't beleive Fiat is Italian Govt backed. If I remember right, they are one of the only car companies in Italy that isnt. Because of that, Marchionne has been threatening Italy that it would move its headquarters to the US if the Ital Govt doesnt cooperate with them or if the Ital labor unions, who are much more hostile than ours, don't give in a little for the companies well being. Combine that with Europes economy, which is worse than ours right now, and moving headquarters sounds like a good idea. Theres no way FIAT would move ALL Jeep production out of the US. Jeep being American born and made is part of its heritage, and one of its selling points. If ALL production is moved out of the country, all of that heritage would be lost, and sales, at least in the US would go to almost nothing, as Jeep wouldnt mean anything anymore. Adding production in China is something every automaker is trying do with its growing economy. It only makes business sense to do so. Fiat is doing the same thing with Russia right now as well. These are huge markets, and it would be stupid to try not to get into them. Whoever wrote that article is an idiot with an agenda, and I'm sure there will be few if any repurcussions to the writer for spewing such ignorance.

www.rockauto.com has been excellent on pricing and quick shipping for OEM parts. Quadratec may have more Jeep specific stuff, but for maintinance or wear items rockauto has been great. Thats if you can wait a couple days for shipping. If you need stuff fast any local auto parts store should be able to help. I also came from the VW world. AIr cooled that is. Pricing on VW stuff has been going steadilly up for a while, and it was just time for me to get out and into something different. I'm a Jeep dealer tech, so some Jeep stuff has been falling in my lap, making it cheaper to do Jeeps for the time being. I do long for another Karmann Ghia though.