dasbulliwagen

I had same issue. The dealership was able to get one through their vintage parts connection. It may still be available. I bought mine a few years ago, so theres really no telling without trying.

I made brackets to mount an XJ rear bumper to my MJ. You can see pics in my build thread. http://comancheclub.com/topic/17515-comanche-limited/

When I was a kid, they were $5 or so. It was like pulling teeth back then to get my parents to give me $5 for one, but I managed to on a regualr basis.

I ran your VIN through Chrysler, came back as VIN not found. 86 is too early to be in their system. Sorry.

Your VIN is too early to be in Chryslers system. I tried running it, but it came back as VIN not found. Sorry.

Drove to Charlotte yesterday to pick up a matress set we bought, got to the warehouse and the guard there asked me if my truck was original or a custom built thing. I told him it was all factory and that there werent many left... he just smiled and went back to what he was doing. I know many of you have had this experience already, but Ive had my truck 5 or 6 years now, and this is my first time. I feel so special now! So that ones off my list now. Now if I can just get strangers to offer to buy it from me out of the blue, I think I will be all set!

I did them as a kid too. I loved taking parts from various kits and mixing and matching. I would take monster truck kits and put bodies on from other car kits, or build parts from balsa wood, and take apart electrical boards and use interesting parts to add detail... and then I got a drivers liscence and went to the vocational center and started messing with real cars.... that spelled the end to the models. I kept a few of the nicer ones around for a long time, but I think at this point, they are all gone.

I can't speak for 88, but 86 and 87 are the same. 88 may have started using Chrysler sourced radios and radio connectors, but I can not say for sure. Thats the only way I would think they would be different.

Or selling scrap metal and used tires from work to add to your Comanche budget without affecting the houshold budget..... at least until the wife finds out you have better than $500 saved up, and wants you to put it into savings so she can fix up the house.

Please note, (I can't turn bold off) that some of the option descritions are wrong.... like it having a nickel metal hydride battery.... Chrysler re used some of the option codes. Have fun, and keep us updated! Vehicle Service Information Year/Model: 1989 JEEP COMANCHE Last Odometer: 0 miles on Body Style: MJJL62 In-Service Date: Engine: ERB-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE In-Service Odometer: 0 miles Transmission: DDX-5-Speed HD Manual Transmission Odometer Type: miles Color 1: PE8-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE Car Line: XX Color 2: QE8-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE Build Date: March 3, 1989 Hour: 01 Vehicle Sale Information Selling Dealer: 23666 - TOYCEN MOTORS INC Sales Type: 1 - DIRECT RETAIL City:BLOOMER State: WI Country: USA Telephone: (715)568-2900 Standard Equipment Code Description Code Description Code Description APAS Monotone Paint BAQS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE BCXS Nickel Metal Hydride Battery BGAS Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes BJAS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE BKPS 10x2.5 Rear Drum Brakes CKJS Black Vinyl Floor Covering CSRS Passenger Assist Handles CUMS Mini Floor Console DHNS Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System DJHS 230MM Front Axle DMMS 3.07 Rear Axle Ratio DRJS 175MM Rear Axle GACS Tinted Glass Windows GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass GEHS Fixed Door Vent Glass GNAS Rear View Day/Night Mirror GUAS Pwr Htd Drvr Memory Mirrors, F/Away HCDS Heater w/Instrument Pnl Ventilation JAAS Instrument Panel JAZS Analog Instrument Cluster JBFS Instrument Panel Black Bezel JCAS 85 MPH Primary Speedometer JKBS Inst Panel Mounted Hood Release KWWS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE K3ZS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE LAFS Key in Ign/Seat Belt Warning Buzzer LAPS Shift Indicator Warning Lamp LBCS Glove Box Lamp LCJS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE LMAS Halogen Headlamps MB1S Black Front Bumper MFFS Black Grille MHBS Bright Windshield Moldings MMCS Rear Qtr Solid Window Insert MMGS Belt Moldings MMJS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE NAAS Federal Emissions NBAS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE \ NBKS EVAP Control System NDAS Catalytic Converter NF5S DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE QE8S DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE SBAS Power Rack and Pinion Steering SCBS 2-Spoke Steering Wheel SFAS Standard Duty Shock Absorbers SGAS Rear Shock Absorbers TADS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE TBCS Compact Spare Tire TBMS Tire Carrier Winch WJKS 15X6.0 Styled Steel Wheels XBSS Pickup Box XFAS -35F Protection Anti-Freeze YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications Z5AS GVW/Payload Rating 1AAS U.S. Dealer Retail 153S Zone 53-Minneapolis CBAP Straight Back Bench Seat DBBC All Manual Transmissions DDX 5-Speed HD Manual Transmission EAAC All Engines EAFC DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE ERB DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE GRVP Left Manual Mirror JHA Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers MBJ Black Front Bumper MDAP Front License Plate Bracket PE8 DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles RAB AM/FM Radio RCDP 4 Speakers SUA Tilt Steering Column TAAC All Tires TPF P205/75R15 BSW All Season Tires YGBA 1 Additional Gallons of Gas YGGA 9 Additional Gallons of Gas Z01P Rear Spring Group I Z65P Left Front Group XIV Z84P Right Front Spring Group XIII 5ALA Low Series Tracking

Post the VIN number here and in the registry, and I will send you a build sheet from Chrysler, including open recalls, and original selling dealer info. Looks like a straight project though. There is plenty of info here about other axles that can be used if you have some welding skills, including the dana 44, Ford 8.8, and Chrysler 8 1/4. Your biggest issue will be finding matching gears if its a 4 wd. If its a 2wd, like was said, find better geared axles like.55 or higher and enjoy! Feel free to ask ANY questios, we are glad to help.

I think we need more details. I'm not sure what a block coolant drain plug is, and I'm a professional mechanic. Do you mean the block freeze plugs? They are round discs that get hammered into the block and use an interference fit to seal the coolant in, but are made to be a weak point if the coolant in the block freezes. If thats what youre talking about, you take a punch and a hammer, and knock one side of it into the block to turn it sideways, then pull it out with some pliers, clean the hole and install a new one the same size with a freeze plug installer, or a socket that will fit snugly inside the freeze plug cup, and hammer it in so it is just under flush with the block. Hope this helps. If not let us know what ya got!

I had the same thing, on a 2.5. Best upgrade I ever did adding PS. I don't know that Ive ever seen or heard of a 4.0 with manual steering... the 4.0 is really a bit too heavy for manual steering for an 80's model vehicle. I will be suprised if someone comes on here and says that is was available like that.

Here are a couple links to some 2.5 info. You may have seen some of this already. 505 Performance may not have 2.5 cams listed, but they do carry them last I checked with them last year. You would need to email a specific request and ask for a quote. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/2-7l-amc-4-cylinder-take-look-457885/ http://www.505performance.com/

Ill have to look into these then. Ive done a few mods already, this might just top those off. Ive gutted and sleeved the converter, added a Flowmaster 50 series muffler, "cold" air intake, electric fan mod. Rockers may just be just what I need for the next step before a full rebuild. Thanks.

I agree about getting new gears. It will be near impossible to set up the gears so the wear pattern is exactly as it was in the old axle. This could cause problems down the road and make you buy new gears anyways.

You got us there! Sorry, sarcasm doesnt always translate well on the interwebz. I still cringe when I see a Jeep 4.0 come into the dealership with a Fram filter on it. Scary!

I read about this before, it may have even been from you, but I'm waiting for someone to try this to see if it actually works. Adding higher ratio rockers was a common bolt on performance adder for the air cooled VW's I used to work on. I don't see whay it wouldnt work for these as well, but considering the airflow logic already posted, higher ratio rockers might not even make a difference, without other supporting flow improvements as well.

Ive only ever read one account of someone using the Chevy flat top pistons in a 2.5 rebuild. They used standard 4.000 diam pistons in the build. Boring the 2.5 out this much seems to be Ok to do, but I'm not sure I would go any farther than that, as it is untested and will weaken the block. Even 4.000 in is more than the manufacturer allows for a rebuild. Doing this will up the displacement to around 2700cc. I would like to do a build like this myself when the time comes. As for locating roller rocker, you may need to buy a whole set for a 4.0 6 cylinder, and then only use what you need. As far as I know, all the valvetrain parts are interchangable between the 2.5 and 4.0. And from what Ive found in my research, the later model heads don't appear to be any different than the early model heads, all the differences were in the intake manifolds, with the late model ones being port injected, and the early model ones being throttle body injected. Hope this helps. And please don't take this as 100% fact as I am only going on memory. You will need to research this yourself before throwing money at parts that may or may not work. Good luck, and let us know how this rebuild turns out. I am very interested to see how it works out for you for my future project. Thanks.

You can still get OEM mopar filters at the dealer for this application. Why would you trust NOS to not disintegrate due to age when you can still get new ones?

Different companies have been toying with these for 10-15 years now. They have yet to catch on... obviously. I think they are having trouble finding a happy medium between good flexibility, and resiliency. I would love to see something like this be a workable usable solution, but I don't think they are there yet.

I think part of what did it for me was www.comancheclub.com ! All the knowledge here, with all the little quirks our trucks present to us makes it the whole package. Thanks Pete!

The Pinto engine was also installed in a lot of dune buggies. There is (was) a company that made nothing but speed parts for them but I couldnt tell you who they are at this point. I say leave it in the chassis, slap on a 20's body tub and grille, and make a super cheap rat rod. My 2 cents!

Bought a used set of front springs from a guy I used to work with who is heavy into ZJ's, who bought them from somebody else, and they say they are ZJ 3"/ XJ 4", but they look a little short. They are 18" long uninstalled with 5/8" (0.625") rod with approx 10 coils. I thought I remembered seeing a coil spring reference guide but couldnt find it. Anyone know what I might have here other than a waste of money? Thanks for any help you can give!

Ive seen much worse than those running still with no misfires. I mean like worn down level with the insulator worn. They look good though. Throw in a new set and call it a day! Check your cap and rotor too, might be time for those as well!