dasbulliwagen

I'm not sure where Rockwell is, but I'm in Asheboro, its about a half hour south of Greensboro, and half way between Charlotte and Raliegh. :waving:

haha knew it well too bad i already have stronger axles. I was plan to sell it to metal scrap but now i change mind and sell it to someone who can restore it. axle shafts are pretty in bad condition(rust) too. I'm sure AMC-MJ would like to buy it from you, he in your part of the country too. I think hes looking for one if I remember right.

Vehicle Sale Information Selling Dealer: C9847 - SCOTT PLYMOUTH CHRYSLER Sales Type: L - LEASE - GOLD KEY City: KELOWNA State/Province: BC Country: CAN Telephone: (250)861-1040 Complete Recall Recall Number 860 Description AIRBAG CONTROL MODULE Launch Date May 17, 2000 Repair Date August 1, 2000 Vehicle Service Information Year/Model: 1998 JEEP CHEROKEE SPORT UTILITY 4-DR Last Odometer: 32,177 Miles on March 20, 2001 Body Style: XJJL74 In-Service Date: March 28, 1998 Engine: ERH-4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine In-Service Odometer: 197 Miles Transmission: DGS-4-Speed Automatic AW4 Transmission Odometer Type: Miles Color 1: PEA-Chili Pepper Red Pearl Coat Car Line: S Color 2: QEA-Chili Pepper Red Build Date: February 13, 1998 Hour: 13 Current Market Register: U Standard Equipment Code Description Code Description Code Description APAS Monotone Paint BAUS 117 Amp Alternator BCDS 500 Amp Maintenance Free Battery BGAS Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes CDBS Reclining Front Seats CFMS Rear Fold w/Removable Cushion Seat CGGS Traveling Inboard Seat Belt Buckle CGWS Next Generation Front Air Bags** CKAS Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area CKNS Cargo Compartment Carpet CKTS Cargo Tie Down Loops CKXS Plastic Liftgate Trim Panel CSRS Passenger Assist Handles CSSS Lift Gate Assist Handle CUFS Full Length Floor Console DGSS 4-Speed Automatic AW4 Transmission DHNS Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System DJHS Dana M30/181MM Front Axle DRAS Corporate 8.25 Rear Axle GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass GFAS Rear Window Defroster GNAS Rear View Day/Night Mirror HGDS Deluxe Insulation Group JDCS 200 KPH Primary Speedometer JHAS Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers JHBS Rear Window Wiper/Washer JJAS Cigar Lighter JJBS Dual Note Electric Horns JJJS 12V Auxiliary Power Outlet KDPS RADIANT SILVER MET. C/C - BADGE - CH KGPS RADIANT SILVER MET. C/C - BADGE - JE KRPS RADIANT SILVER MET. C/C - BADGE - 4 KTPS RADIANT SILVER MET. C/C - JEEP K3ZS BLACK - FENDER FLARES LAJS Headlamps On Warning Chimes LBCS Glove Box Lamp LMAS Halogen Headlamps LMKS Daytime Running Headlamps, High Beam LPSS CHMSL Lamp MCAS Front Bumper Guards MDAS Front License Plate Bracket MHAS Black Windshield Moldings MMCS Upper Door Frame Moldings MMGS Belt Moldings MMKS Body Color Drip Trough Molding MNAS Black Door Handles NBKS EVAP Control System NFAS 20 Gallon Fuel Tank NHKS Engine Block Heater QEAS Chili Pepper Red SBAS Power Steering SDAS Normal Duty Suspension SHAS Front Stabilizer Bar SHCS Rear Stabilizer Bar TBLS Inside Mounted Spare Tire XCYS Upgraded OBD-II Connectors XJFS Tethered Fuel Filler Cap YACS Build To Canada Mkt. Specifications Z5BS GVW Rating - 4900# 1ABS Canada Dealer Retail 125S Zone 25-Canada-Alberta 679S British Columbia Province Code Optional Equipment Code Description Code Description Code Description *M5 Prem Cloth Hi-Back Bucket Seats -C3 Mist Gray ADAP Light Group ARWP Sport Decor Group AWHP Power Equipment Group A20P 4.0L Engine(ERH)/4Sp Auto Trans(DGS CADP High Back Bucket Seats CBWP Highline Door Trim Panel CLEP Front Rear Floor Mats CSAP Spare Tire Cover DGB All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions DHAP Lock-Up Torque Converter DHSP Floor Mount Automatic Shift Lever DMDP 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio EAAC All Engines ERH 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine GAL Deep Tint Sunscreen Glass GEEP Deep Tint Sunscreen Liftgate Glass GNCP Sun Visors w/Illum Vanity Mirrors GTZP Power Mirrors, Fold-Away GVBC All Vehicles W/Power Mirrors GXMP Remote Keyless Entry HAAP Air Conditioning JAYP Instrument Cluster w/Tach JBFP Instrument Panel Black Bezel JPAP Power Windows JPBP Power Locks KVNP Stripe / Decal / Molding KYPP RADIANT SILVER MET. C/C - 4.0L K2ZP BLACK - MOLDING - BODYSIDE LBBP Courtesy Lamps LCDP Map/Dome Reading Lamps LDAP Underhood Lamp LDBP Cargo Compartment Lamp LHDP Headlamp Off Time Delay LNJ Fog Lamps MB1P Black Front Bumper MB5P Black Rear Bumper MFFP Black Grille MWGP Roof Rack NAA Federal Emissions NHM Speed Control PEA Chili Pepper Red Pearl Coat RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles RASP AM/FM Cassette Radio RCRP 4 Speakers RDDP Fixed Long Mast Antenna SCGP Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel SUAP Tilt Steering Column TBB Full Size Spare Tire TRLP P225/75R15 Wrangler RT/S AT Tires TZAP Goodyear Brand Tires WJW 15X7.0 Aluminum Ecco Wheels WKBP Matching Spare Wheel WLZC All Aluminum Wheels YGAA Without Billable Fuel ZFJP Spring - Left Front ZFUP Spring - Left Rear ZUJP Spring - Right Front ZUUP Spring - Right Rear 2TJA Customer Preferred Package 2TJ 26J Customer Preferred Package 26J 3VVA Customer Preferred Discount 4CPA Federal A/C Excise Tax

With as many cards as some of us here hand out, I'm suprised that I never really see anyone that has responded that they got a card on their windsheild and is happy to be here. Just sayin....

I read it while standing at the rack at wally world, and I don't think it was just about uglyness. They listed crappy points for each model... like the CJ's 2 peice axles in the corporate 20 axle, or the early wagoneers with the crappy independant front suspension, or the early XJ's with the crappy 2.8 GM engine, or the M715 with its underpowered hurricane 6 engine..... stuff like that.

Pm or post your VIN and milage and Ill pull one up for you.

I really appreciate your enthusiasm, ans love that you want to do everything yourself, but reading your posts and responses just gives me a headache. We tell you the best and really ONLY way this job should be done, and you blow it all off saying that you can do it better by yourself. Money is an issue for most of here most of the time, so don't think youre the only one with that problem either. If all you can do is slap a head gasket on it, then do it, and don't ask us for our expensive opinions. I hate to sound like this and talk like this, but sometimes it just has to be said. Slap a gasket on and see what happens....like you said, all you have to do if it aint right is do it again.

The pipe thread will be tapered to provide a tighter seal as it threads in. Not sure if the thread pitch and threads per inch are the same or not though.

I agree, send the head to a machine shop that has engine building experience, and have it checked for cracks, and for warpage.... this would be a good time too, to get a valve job, maybe even a three angle valve job, have the guides replaced..... NOT KNURLED, and seats ground, and new valve seals installed. Before you pull the head drain as much coolant as you can, and before you run the engine again after reinstalling the head, change the oil to get out any water/antifreeze that may have made it to the oil pan. Youll want to look at the cylinder walls for any obvious gouging and scoring (lines in an up down orientation in the cylinder)... this may mean youve gotten some dirt in the cylinder or that you might have broken rings... this will mean lower compression, and may need a lower end rebuild and cylinder boring with new pistons, and all new bearings. But it sounds like you don't want to pull the engine, so we will assume the lower end is OK. Other side projects should include a new water pump, new thermostat, hoses etc.... Good luck!

Yes, Ive been there. I'm 37 now, but 15-20 years ago, it was a different car every year or two.... all mostly junk and projects in between, trying to make something nice to drive, but then loose interest in and sell... loosing my but in the process. That was when I lived up north, and all my beaters were rust buckets, and so were my nice cars. Ive never made back what I put into a car ever. Ive never really expected to though either so Ive never been too disappointed. Then 11 years ago or so I met a girl, and bought my first NICE car so I could deal better with our long distance relationship (at the time) The Grand Wagoneer I had was just too bad on gas and leaked too much oil to be making 600 mile round trip runs once a month. I know its sad to say but that first real Nice car I bought was a 4 year old Hyundai Accent, with 36,000 miles on it for $5000. I still have it with over 150,000 on the clock now. Sold my last project VW a year and a half ago, and now am playing with our beloved Jeeps. My MJ... if I ever sell, I might make some money on... but only because its rust free, and I paid $250 for it. Even with all Ive done to it at this point, I have less than $1000 into it. But I havent done an engine rebuild or put any kind of lift on it yet, so I still might get to loose my but! For some of us, this way of life with a diferent car every year or so will never change. As long as we have a place to work on them and the spare cash to do it with, there will always be another project.

You guys might like this page too! http://www.allpar.com/trucks/jeep/comanche.html

I found this on www.allpar.com today. Thought it would be interesting reading for some of you. Interesting too how the MJ is mention a few times.... mostly about stealing parts from it for the Cherokee Police version. Enjoy. http://www.allpar.com/squads/police-cars/cherokee.html

And the noise in your vents could be due to debris in there or a mouse house, or a flapping vent door seal in a particular mode.... fairly common in our old trucks. The only way to fix it would to take it apart and clean it, and redo the seals, and that involves dash removal.

Theres NO way you should drive your truck in 4x4 hi on dry pavement.... youre gonna end up getting it bound and break something! Only drive it like that if the pavement you have is slippery or loose or slick. That way it allows your 4x4 system to unbind when it needs to due to minor differences in tire size, and due to differences in distance travelled by each tire from corners and lane changes. If you only have hard dry pavement, then the binding can't releive itself, and you could break something, especially at highway speeds! It only makes sense. Keep the 2wd on dry pavement.

Probably uses a brake fluid level sensor.... fluid level is lower when pads are thin due to more fluid left inside the calipers.

Most service manuals list the correct pressures to be about 10 psi per 1000 rpm. But most good tight engines should see better than that when hot. Its just a minumum they use.

I'm up in mvusse's neighborhood on a fairly regular basis, Ill have to keep an eye out for that thing.... not that you can miss it! :yes:

After looking at chevytalk, I am curious to see how it would apply to our board, and if it would be any faster loading without the ads. If you get a free trial, will you be able to set it up with a different adress for people to look at it and try it out? I don't care too much for change either, especially after Obama ruined the word. But "CHANGE" is the only constant in the universe, so if we gotta do, lets do it.

So.... whats the story on the trade??? Inquiring minds ( I use that term loosely) want to know! ;)

Saw that a couple years ago, and its just amazing! The pic of him with his face all contorted is priceless! That has got to be THE best show on TV anywhere! Even if you don't like cars, you have to like that show! I just got DirectTV hooked up and now have BBCAmerica so I get to watch them all now on a regular basis! Its like being in heaven! ANd starting next month they are going to be showing full unedited length shows! :brows: :banana: :banana: :banana:

The front of that thing reminds me of a Ford Courier pickup. Image Not Found

Thats just sick and wrong! I didnt know what they were doing at first, and then they started backing up, and I was like wait a minute.... what kind of race starts like that....... Then I remembered! Friggin demo derby!!! :fs1: What the flip!!! :fs1: I coulldnt watch any farther once I saw what it was. :fs2:

I would think that you would be happy about being "CHILLY" as compared to your home in Michigan. ;)

I would hate to see this site change soo much, but if it is needed and better for all those involved, I guess I would have to get used to it. :dunno:

That thing would be KILLER with a CHROME grille, bumpers, door handles, and mirrors! Nice truck though even without the chrome. Keep up the good work!