dasbulliwagen

I saw one on here quite a while back, but it was an XJ model that was modified to look like an MJ.

The 235/75r15's BFG A/T's that I have on my truck were free to me because they rubbed slightly on a TJ Wrangler.... the used car dept didnt like the noise that the really nice tires caused, so they told me to replace them with the stock size. So I put them on my truck.... and they don't rub. I know were talking about 31's here, but any rubbing you might get with them will be as on that Wrangler... so minor that it doesnt even hurt the tire... only makes a little noise. I was hoping to find some cheap 31's for mine, but when these 235's BFG A/T's came along, I couldnt turn them down.

I looked at national Craigslist ads for the right Camaro/ Firebird donor, thinking it would be better to have a complete running donor to do a swap from.... found complete running cars in the $1000 range and up..... might be better to get a whole car, take what you want, and then sell the rest off to recoup some money.... I think youd be cheaper off doing it this way if you can afford the donor money up front. Buying just the engine from a junkyard might cost less than a donor car up front, but youd get a lot of that back, and youd see and hear it run beforehand. I'm thinking of doing this with my 86 when the time comes. This way too, you have the whole fuel injection system if you wanted to try and make it work instead of the carb. Ive heard tell that that system can be made to work standalone. Might be worth a try if you have the abilities.

Looked out the window at it, and noticed that most of the ice from the ice storm last monday has finally melted off of it.... I havent been driving ir for fear the salt put down would get to it, Maybe I can drive it again tommorow or next week. And I know I keep saying it, but I need to get back to work on it, and update my build thread.

After you lift, be sure to get a professional alignment, including a caster adjustment. Otherwise youll wear out tires, have pulling issues, non centered steering wheel, and possible death wobble problems, although the DW is less likely with a 2wd due to less unsprung weight. You may need to get a new adjustable track bar as well to keep the front end centered.

:cheers:

The newer cherokee motor has a different head, so your intake manifold won't fit up correctly, although it has been done, and there are ways to adapt the newer manifold to work with your older computer system.... but yes it will work with your computer as long as you can make the other stuff work with the newer cylinder head.

Coolant level does change, thats why there is a full cold mark on your coolant resevior, it allows room for expansion of the coolant. The level should be higher when hot, and lower when cold. And a pressure tester telling weather or not a head gasket is bad.... it can happen several ways. I saw just a month or so ago, the tech that works next to me was pressure testing a ram pickup, but saw no coolant leaking as pressure dropped. So he was stumped, and was going to pull it putside, but when he hit the starter, the engine hydrolocked because one of the cylinders was full of coolant. But I guess that all depends on how bad the head gasket leak really is. it could also leak coolant into the crankcase, in which case youd get milky inneffective motor oil, or leak coolant into the transmission cooler line inside the radiator, and make your trans fluid milky and inneffective. There are many variables to this. The temp guage fluctuation too me would mean a bad thermostat, because every one Ive ever seen would get to its mid point and stay there with little to no noticable movement, but ive not had any Jeeps with a guage like that, so that experience comes from other vehicles. As for the water pump... horribly worn impeller blades are fairly rare, the pump will usually leak long before the blades get that worn out. Ive only seen it a couple times myself over the years, and again, not in a Jeep. Good luck and let us know what you figure out.

Sounds like a fuel issue, Take a hammer and pound on the bottom of the gas tank several times, then try to start the truck, if it starts, you need a new fuel pump, if it don't, you may still need a fuel pump, but youll need to make sure the pump is getting power first, and a good ground. If I remember right, the ground is behind the left rear taillight. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong. But try the tank hitting fisrt, hit it hard, but not hard enough to dent the tank.

Another artical on the Grand Waggy.... http://www.allpar.com/news/index.php/20 ... l-thinking

here's another article about this, in allpar.com. This one isnt so cut and dry as the first one, just says there is better than a 50% chance Jeep will get a truck, most likely off the Gladiator concept. And talks about a smaller Dakota replacement too. http://www.allpar.com/news/index.php/20 ... ew-pickups

It looks a bit rough to be a $1000 truck. He probably says it has rancho because of the stickers on the shocks. And how long would it take to detail the darned thing to make it look nicer for a sale? I agree, this isnt the real owner, just a flipper. Though it would be a good basis for a project if you plan to keep it for a while. Make everything right, maybe even find a new bed. As long as it is really rust free, It would be up to you if youre willing to spend what it takes to get this truck. Good luck, and let us know what happens!

Thats frickin awesome!

Looks like it will be built on the extended Grand Cherokee platform being used for the new Durango, with seats for 7. http://www.allpar.com/news/index.php/20 ... t-and-more

http://www.allpar.com/cars/stories/Gros ... /index.php

Some connectors were changed for 87, some were not. In my 87, I plugged in a factory 1986 radio right to the original connector, but the connector was different for the clock from 86 to 87. Mine was also radio delete when new. I know this doesnt help you with your wiring, just thought it would be good info for someone. You might need to look into radio adapters for AMC cars of the same era. I looked into the adapter thing too a while back, but then found a working factory radio that plugged in, so I havent gone any further in my search. Sorry.

Me too, but maybe not 42's. I'm thinking 37 or 38's. :thumbsup:

If you plan on staying with only 31" tires, a Dana 30 front will be fine, there are plenty of parts upgrades, and it will bolt right in. You mentioned a 35 front, possibly by mistake. There was never a Dana 35 front availablke for our trucks, and if there was you probably wouldnt want it. As for the rears, the stock Dana 35 with 4:10 gears will be fine if you don't plan obn much wheeling, but a 44 would be a great upgrade IF you can find one. As for gearing, 4:10 will be good for a 2.5 on stock size tires, but if you want 31's you might look into 4:37 or 4:56 gearing. 4:56 geared axles were stock early on in 4 cylinder automatics, but are EXTREMELY rare, the other option would be to have your axles regeared, but that can be costly and is not meant to be done by an amature. Good luck.

Fiat is in the works to own 51% of Chrysler, they have the options to do that, and are going for it, possibly by the end of this year. That will makle them the OWNERS outright. These issues have been fought over time and time again, with each and every changing of the hands that Jeep has had. This one isnt going to be any different. If you like the new stuff, fine, if you don't, fine as well. Who cares! And reliabilty and tech issues abound for all makes, not just Jeep. I think that Jeeps popularity as an off road vehicle brings the bigger issues more into the spotlight than other brands that don't get used like the Jeeps do. I would have to say that there are a butload more Jeeps out there being modified and wheeled than there are Toyotas or Hondas as were mentioned. Jeeps popularity makes it much easier to start a popular forum to bring any issues to light and to get help. That doesnt mean that the other makes are any better or worse just because you don't hear about any problems. We just need to keep all this in perspective.

Pull the tires off the Grand, throw them in the back of the MJ, and then go get the Authorities at Wal-Mart mounted, if the rims are loose, they won't ask questions.

here's the options info for your truck. It does not specify which manual trans it has, but it is a late build model, so the AX15 would be original. Also be aware that not all the descriptions are correct as many have been recycled by Chrysler. Vehicle Service Information Year/Model: 1989 JEEP COMANCHE Last Odometer: 0 Miles on Body Style: MJJL61 In-Service Date: Engine: ERB-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE In-Service Odometer: 0 Miles Transmission: DDQ-5-Speed Manual Transmission Odometer Type: Miles Color 1: PWB-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE Car Line: XX Color 2: QWB-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE Build Date: April 8, 1989 Current Market Register: Hour: 17 Standard Equipment Code Description Code Description Code Description APAS Monotone Paint BAQS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE BCXS Nickel Metal Hydride Battery BGAS Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes BJAS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE BKPS 10x2.5 Rear Drum Brakes CKJS Black Vinyl Floor Covering CSRS Passenger Assist Handles CUMS Mini Floor Console DHNS Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System DJHS Dana M30/181MM Front Axle DMMS 3.07 Rear Axle Ratio DRJS 175MM Rear Axle GACS Tinted Glass Windows GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass GEHS Fixed Door Vent Glass GNAS Rear View Day/Night Mirror HCDS Heater w/Instrument Pnl Ventilation JAAS Instrument Panel JAZS Analog Instrument Cluster JBFS Instrument Panel Black Bezel JCAS 85 MPH Primary Speedometer JKBS Inst Panel Mounted Hood Release KDAS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE K3ZS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE LAFS Key in Ign/Seat Belt Warning Buzzer LAPS Shift Indicator Warning Lamp LBCS Glove Box Lamp LCJS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE LMAS Halogen Headlamps MB1S Black Front Bumper MFFS Black Grille MHBS Bright Windshield Moldings MMCS Upper Door Frame Moldings MMGS Belt Moldings MMJS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE NAAS Federal Emissions NBAS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE NBKS EVAP Control System NDAS Catalytic Converter NF2S 18.5 Gallon Fuel Tank QWBS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE RACS AM MTR Radio SCBS 2-Spoke Steering Wheel SFAS Standard Duty Shock Absorbers SGAS Rear Shock Absorbers TADS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE TBCS Compact Spare Tire TBMS Tire Carrier Winch WJKS 15X6.0 Styled Steel Wheels WMCS Bright Wheel Trim Rings XBSS Pickup Box XFAS -35F Protection Anti-Freeze YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications Z5AS GVW/Payload Rating 1AAS U.S. Dealer Retail 141S Zone 41-Cincinatti Optional Equipment Code Description Code Description Code Description *B1 DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE -Q8 DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE CBAP Straight Back Bench Seat DBBC All Manual Transmissions DDQ 5-Speed Manual Transmission EAAC All Engines EAFC DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE ERB DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE GRZP Left Remote Mirror GSZP Right Remote Control Mirror GTZ Manual Remote Mirrors PWB DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles RCAP 19 SPKRS SRT High Perf Audio SBAA Power Rack and Pinion Steering TAAC All Tires TNCA P195/65R15 BSW AS Touring Tires YEP Manuf Statement of Origin YGEA 5 Additional Gallons of Gas Z01P Rear Spring Group I Z65P Left Front Group XIV Z84P Right Front Spring Group XIII 4BX Employee Purchase 4EAA Sold Vehicle 5ALA Low Series Tracking Special Equipment Code Description Code Description Code Description No Special Equipment Available Dealer Installed Equipment Code Description Code Description Code Description No Dealer Installed Equipment Available

I measured the rims, and went to Tractor supply, and compared to the lawnmower and implement wheels they have and found a set that actually fit. I had to buy whole wheel /tire combos, but put them in a hot water bath to soften them up, and dismounted them from their wheels, and mounted them on the trike wheels. Takes a littel prying, but it works. Thanks for the comments! Hopefully the new one will turn out just as well. Though I'm not sure yet if Ill be staying stock with the wheels on the new one! Might put some fatties on the back to give it more of a drag trike feel!

thats what I was hoping. I thought the starter motor might come out and that was the worst of it. thanks for helping, I've been searching almost every keyword into google and it just pissed me off when nothing came about except shopping pages. lol at how old this thread is and the immediate response to my question. :clapping: Yeah, the starter has to come out, sorry, I assumed that would be a given... sorry. And I didnt even notice how old the thread was... don't remember it either.

here's some "adult" tricycle action.... I use the term "adult" loosely. But pretty cool anyways.

The one for the ax5 is not a complete spacer plate, it only covers and bolts to the bottom half. I have one sitting here to look at, though I couldnt tell you right now if youd need to pull the trans to install it. First thing for you will be to find one, then look at everything real good to know if anything has to come out to install it. Edit: After looking at it closer, and putting it up against the trans bellhousing, I would have to say that you won't need to pull the trans. Looks like all its attaching points are seperate from the engine mounting bolts, should just slide in place and bolt up.