dasbulliwagen

This will be a wonderfull opportunity to break you Dana 35 so you can get a better axle!

If it was a newer model, I could get you a build sheet, but Chrysler doesnt have much info on 88 and older model Jeeps. Some info that would be helpful would be where you are, where you sold it. When you sold it... etc.

Minimum of 24x30, but preferably 30x40, heavilly insulated for easy heating and cooling. 5 horse 60 gal air compressor (already have), 2 post lift, Mig welder, plasma cutter, press, brake, shear, tubing bender, notcher, decent stereo, fridge, heavy duty benches, cabinnetry... etc. I also have a bunch of woodworking stuff and would have a corner reserved for all of it. Basically the same as what everyone else wants. Ive been looking at steel building prices, and trying to figure out how we can swing it. I live on a sloped lot so I'm really afraid of what the grading will cost. That and local code says there needs to be a 10ft buffer area between any permanant structure and the property. line. That seems like a lot when you live in the city. I have a slightly larger than normal lot for where I live, but I'm also on a corner so I also have to deal with city road right of way too.

You might try some dynamic wheel balancing, like airsoft beads, or theres a bolt on dynamic balancer, but I can't remember what theyre called. Sometimes you can balance the tires all you want, but at high speeds you may still have issues. Have you tried road force balancing? If not, that might help you out as well. You can find wheel tire problems with a road force balancer that you just can't do with a regular balancer. Good luck.

Thats very cool. But some people just have too much time and money on their hands.

I installed JK base model shocks on my MJ a couple years ago. They ride great and it only took minor mods to make them fit front and rear. Youll need a couple pieces of your old shocks mounting to put into you new ones on the front, and remove a peice from the rears, but they fit and work great. I'm not sure I would go much more than 2 inches more than stock height to use them. especially in the rear. If you have more lift than that, I would get something else.

I hate to say it, but I was waiting for the trans to overheat and catch on fire.

I was just wondering how I missed this thread, but then I saw which section it was in. I never come in here.

Maybe I'm stupid, but who in their right mind puts heat wrap tape on a gas line??? Its not liquid, it can't freeze... therefore it is unneccessay. If I'm wrong, please explain.

Banks lending rules are a lot tighter now than they used to be making it much tougher for ANYONE to get a loan. Ill be in the makrket for a new car in another year or so. I hope I don't have the problems youre having.

The last used car I financed was through my credit union. Banks and Credit Unions will finance used cars but its usualy at a higher interest rate than it would be for a new car, and they will not finance a used car for any more than its book value. The one I bought was on the dealer lot for $5900. I offered them $5000... they told me that they could not go below $5100. At that point I was ready to walk out over $100 difference, but they caved. I was later told by my credit union, that high book on the car was $4900, and that they usually won't finance any more than that, but I had good credit and a history with them, so they let me get the loan for the $5000 plus tax title and tag. And 5% on that used car finance sounds GREAT! As long as the payments are where you want them. Good luck. Edit.... and running your credit is the ONLY way they can give you an accurate estimate on your payments. That happening once or twice should not affect you adversely.

Nobody makes a 4 cyl Comanche Cherokee specific header anymore. And as far as Calif. Emissions, I think youre stuck with a stock manifold. 2.5 headers are made for 91 up YJ's and TJ's, but they don't have the EGR port, and they may not be routed just right for our trucks and might require modification. Sounds like youre onthe right track so far with mods. Keep up the good work, and welcome.

Pull your distributor cap off and check the rotor for play. It should move very little. If it moves a lot, your distributor bearings are going and youll need a new distributor. Good luck.

I went out at midnight on the day I turned 21 and wasnt even carded... I was a little dissappointed. I don't really drink anyways so it really wasnt a big deal. Just another boring day in my boring life.

Since when did Ohio have tailpipe emmissions checks? And if that truck was in North Carolina before, depending on the county it came from, it should have had at least an emmissions tampering check... which it should have failed. And high Nox is usually caused by high combustion temps, which is usually held in check by EGR... so maybe the EGR is stuck closed or unhooked as well. Good luck.

take the vin number and proof of ownership to the dealership, and have them cut a key just to open the door. it won't cost too much just for a non chpped key blank and then youre in. if it has the skim key it won't start it, but it will get you in.

The vehicle FRAME has NOTHING to do with camber adjustment. Like was said, two main things cause bad camber.... ball joints , or a bent axle. The frame does not play into that adjustment at all. It could affect caster if there is a frame issue, as the frame mounts could effect the control arm positioning, and thus axle positioning. I'm not sure if you and or your alignmnet shop are getting these terms mixed up, but it all needs to be clarified for you to understand what is going on correctly. I'm not trying to be an azz here, I just don't want to see you get taken to the cleaners for a lack of understanding on the terms used in front end alignment.

I didnt have a J truck, but I did have a Grand Wagoneer. It had the 258 in it, and was all I needed. It would go through anything you asked it to with its torque, especially in low range. The biggest issue with my 258 was the carb, which I switched to a more reliable Holley/Weber 2 BBL kit. Other than leaking oil it ran perfectly. It did have frame rot issues, and its Selec-trac NP228 transfer case blew up on me, but I don't think that case was available on the trucks. Good luck with your search though. My dream truck is an M715! So you get a J truck and let us live vicariously through you!

Camber is not adjustable with shims, as eagle said, but CASTER is. You would not notice by looking if your caster angle was off. Good caster will however help with death wobble issues. If you have good caster, it will make it harder for DW to start. You may want to find out what your alignment guy was trying to shim. The shims for caster go in behind the rear of the lower control arms rear mounting bolts. If camber is way off, and the ball joints are good, there are adjustable ball joints available to fix minor camber issues, but if it is too far off, you probably have a bent axle. Wheel bearings would have to be to the point of ready to explode and fall apart to get camber bad enough to notice by looking at it. Good luck, and let us know what you figure out.

I don't know that ive ever seen it confirmed that port sizes changed on the change to port injection. Get the new motor, pull your intake off and compare the two. If they are the same, you can just swap your intake and exhaust and motor mounts over to the new block, and hope all the accessories bolt up like original. Let us know what you figure out. I'm curious to know as well if they are the same or not.

Ford did re design the Ranger and Mazda B-series, but they arent going to sell them in the US, obviously. I agree, its kinda sad to think that the compact pickup market in the US is essentially dead.

I would think that they are 5/16 or 3/8 bolts, but couldnt tell you the length. They really are nothing special, but if I were you, I would buy twice as many nuts as you need and double nut the bolts to act as a lock nut.

There are a few on here doing that. Just go through the Projects section, and youll find some.

The Yokohama Geolander A/T is a very mild A/T and very highly rated for the price. I have a set on my Hyundai Tucson, and plan on getting a set for the MJ if I can ever get my BFG's to wear out. I think the BFG's will dry rot before they ever wear out, but the price on a new set of them is a bit out of my budget. Just my 2 cents!

I agree about brake upgrades. If youre not sure which ones we're talking about Ill list them below. WJ or 96 XJ brake booster and master cylinder WJ front disk brake conversion with WJ knuckles removal of rear weight sensing valve with addition of XJ or ZJ or adjustable aftermarket proportioning valve Another good upgrade for the 2.5 is removal of engine driven fan with addition of temp controlled electric fan... frees up a few horspower. I'm not sure if you have any emmisions inspections where youre at, but gutting and sleeving the cat converter (or outright removal of it) will help a little too. Some will say the 2.5 needs the backpressure it provides to run properly, but this has not been my experience. I also added a Flowmaster 50 series Muffler for a little bit of growl without being too loud. This gives the little 2.5 a bit more pep. Like was said, better shocks will be good, a ZJ v8, or XJ country sway bar will help out. A ZJ V8 tie rod assy will help in the strength dept. WJ upper and lower front control arms will beef up front end strength too as well as add more clearance for bigger tires. Your best upgrade would be to get 4:10 gearing though. If you keep the 4 speed, add 4:10 gears, and 31 or 32 inch tires, your speedo will be pretty close to correct ( this assuming your original was 3:55 geared). Another great upgrade that would be good for your purposes would be a rear end upgrade to a dana 44, ford 8.8, or chrysler 8 1/4... get one with limited slip, or add a lunchbox locker, and youll be all set. I know the easiest would be to add a locker to your 35, but nobody really reccomends speding ANY money on a dana 35.