dasbulliwagen

I had the leaning issue on mine too. The track bar connects on the driver side and pulls it lower. The driver and gas tank being on the same side doesnt help. When I lifted, using 5.5" RE springs, I added an extra spring isolator to the driver side. It helped ALMOST level it. It could have used another isolator or a 1" spacer to get it just right. I ordered a set of 1" spacers before doing the lift, but decided to use the extra isolator first as I didnt want to over do it.

I did the WJ booster in mine, and after messing with grinding the rod for the brake switch and failing, I cut the end off of my original and the WJ and welded my original end to the WJ rod. I also used this opportunity to shorten it slightly to the correct length. Its been working great for years now. Ill have to remember this trick for next time though!

I have one from a 93-98 Grand Cherokee in mine. It has a faster turning ratio than the stock MJ/XJ. The stock had around 3.5 turns lock to lock, the ZJ one I got has 2.5 turns lock to lock. And both of these are far better than the non power steering box that came original on my truck. I'm sure someone will chime in, but certain years of Dodge Durango will bolt on and are supposedly an upgrade.

I like my Hyundais, but in the era youre looking at, they had a lot of engine problems, some with the crankshaft, and some with pistons. So do your research if you find yourself going that direction. Mazda cars are underrated in my opinion. Youll be fine as long as you stay away from anything with a turbo or a rotary. I would stay away from anything with a CVT transmission as well. They don't seem to have good longevity. I really don't understand why any mfg is still using them. I guess most of them last long enough to get it outside of the warranty period.

jeepsticker.com makes quality stuff. I have a set on mine. The first set he shipped got lost in the mail, and he quickly shipped me out another set. You can get any color you want, even something that might compliment your body color better than black or white. I personally wouldnt worry about originality. You can order another set later and change it to white if you think youre selling it and that originality would help, though a majority of the restored ones I see going for high dollars, don't even have a set on them, let alone being in original color.

I like the idea of the ranger light, but the large hole, turns me off completely. Here are some surface mount LEDs that would be a lot easier to mount. Amazon.com: Kawell Universal 2 Pack 6W LED Mini Light Bar Bumper DRL Fog Light Motorcycle Light DRL Tail Backup Light Car Motor Clearance Marker Lights for ATV SUV Mine Boat 4x4 Ford F150 : Automotive

If you went up a size on the tires all around, your caster angle would not be affected. and, just so everyone knows, CASTER ANGLE DOES NOT AFFECT TIRE WEAR. Yes yours is a little low, but its not low enough to cause you any issues and seems to be close side to side. Shims will need to be added to increase your caster number closer to spec. Though with your tire wear issues, you don't need to be worried about a 5 degree positive caster number. If you can't get enough adjustment with shims, buy a set of adjustable lower control arms. These will dial you in exactly where you want it no matter what, but again, i wouldnt worry about your current number.

Check MOPAR first for new ones. They still had new ones years ago when I got one for my 87, but thats been a while ago. I work at a GM dealer now, and we've been having problems with Bosch sensors lately and won't use them anymore. For the price, I would get a new one weather you find you need it or not. And I'm pretty sure the older models only had one O2 sensor.

you might try Team Cherokee, or Crown automotive Jeep parts. They are the only ones I can think of that might have obscure parts like that. Someone else may chime in with better info.

I'm 6'1" and have lifted mine 6" on 32's. I can get in and out with no issues. Getting out is easiest as the seat is at just the right height without having to fall or jump. I used 5.5" Rubicon Express springs, Core4x4 control arms and track bar, RRO drop brackets, extended sway bar links that can disconnect, YJ stainless brake hoses, Bilstein shocks, and spring over in the rear with Bilstein shocks, and longer shackles on 2wd springs. It rides almost as good as stock with the drop brackets keeping the front control arm angles closer to stock, and the Bilsteins keeping it all under control. A long arm setup will get similar results, but youll need to do more in the rear with the leafs if you don't go a full 5-6" in the front.

The A904 auto used behind the 2.8 is a smaller version of the TF727 Chrysler transmission. They were offered behind small Chrysler V8's and slant 6's in the Chrysler lineup. There are shift kits available to make that trans more reliable, but the downside is no 4th gear or overdrive. Nothing different you replace it with will be a direct bolt in with no other changes. Your transfer case may bolt up, either the NP207 or NP228/229, but youll probably need different drive shafts, and maybe a different crossmember. If you don't want to change anything else, a direct replacement is your only alternative. Another alternatve might be the 700R4/ 4L60 from a 2.8-3.1-3.4-3.8 equipped GM vehicle, but again, everything will need changed to make that work.

After lifting and replacing all your front end components, get a professional alignment, and tell them to make sure they check and adjust the caster as well. Most alignment places only want to do a toe and go. Caster is an important angle considering death wobble. When I converted mine to 4x4, I was in a hurry to drive it and didnt check caster, and I got death wobble. After re doing the alignment and getting caster as close to stock as possible, I havent had a problem since. That was all before I lifted it. I used adjustable upper and lower control arms when I lifted and I set my caster angle at the time I did my lift with an angle guage on top of the top ball joint. When I did my alignment checking caster angle, it was right on with what the angle guage said. Do it all correctly, and don't be afraid to ask questions here. Theres a ton of good people here more than willing to help, without giving you too much greif.

I had it happen to my check card a few years ago. Someone trying to buy porn or escort in TURKEY! I had to go to the bank to deny the charges and get a new card sent.

IF you buy a cheap replacement, DO NOT CUT INTO YOUR STOCK RADIO CONNECTOR. There are adapter connectors out there for wiring in aftermarket radios to the stock body side connector. When I did mine, I took the mounting bracket off my original radio, used a large stainless band clamp to attach it, and then mounted the whole thing in the hole the same as stock. If you like the stock radio, there are places that will rebuild them. Do a little research and youll find something.

R1234yf being flamable has only happened ONE time (last I knew). Mercedes Benz, who was pushing for the new refrigerant to be CO2, did some testing and got it to catch on fire ONE time in a crash test, and has used that one video to push the other way. Many other manufacturers have tried to recreate the fire that Mercedes got, but have been unable. That and CO2 has to run at MUCH higher head pressures than other refrigerants, thus causing other problems with taking more power to actually turn the compressor and causing high pressure puncture hazzards. Having worked with both 134 and 1234, I know that the 1234yf machinery is much more finicky to work with and takes longer to actually use, but as far as pressures are concerned, I don't see why an older system couldnt be converted to 1234yf if we had to in the future. Though at least at this time R134a is still readily available.

Ive recently discovered Colter Wall, a young Canadian guy with a voice 3 times his age. And City and Colour! Great voice!

When Ive done conversions from 12 to 134, It always good to run a really long vacuum on the system to remove all moisture and all old oil in the system, like at least a 45 minute vacuum if not longer. Then let it sit for 10-15 minutes watching the vacuum gauges for leakdown. If its ok at that point, fill it with the correct amount of R134a, and the correct amount of the correct oil. I converted mine years ago, but Ive had a hose go bad since and havent fixed it yet.

There are upgrades available. I put in a fully welded aluminum one a year or so ago after the cheap plastic tank one I installed before that one blew up on me. They say they are 2 core, but all Ive seen are single core, but at a double thickness of the core, which I guess should be just as good. Do a google search. Or Amazon.... https://www.amazon.com/CoolingMaster-Aluminum-Radiator-1986-1992-Commander/dp/B09F2YDMJ1/ref=sr_1_65_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=1986+jeep+Cherokee+radiator&qid=1632152243&replacementKeywords=radiator&sr=8-65-spons&vehicle=1986-42-347------------&vehicleName=1986+Jeep+Cherokee&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQjZXRDMzNlA3STlIJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzMyOTkwMzQwSlQzRjRWSlEzUyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTQ0NjUxMVBXSlJSUEpaVzVZTiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2J0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

An OBD2 swap would require a complete harness from a 96 and newer XJ, including under the dashboard, which might involve different intake manifold and different sensors. You might consider selling the 89 and buying a complete 96-01 XJ and then youll have every single part youll need. If you get a 97 and up, you can swap the entire newer dashboard and interior as a bonus. Trying to piece it together from three different models is going to be a pain. Though I have to say too, theres nothing wrong with keeping the 89 Renix setup. Just read and follow Cruisers tips for the renix system and it will be fine.

It is an XJ Wagoneer grille assy, they never came stock on an MJ. I think youll be fine at 31-32, and like was said, it will help drivability.

Measuring at the wheel openings is not a way to determine your lift amount. The rears openings on the MJ are higher than the fronts. Your truck looks perfect the way it is front to back, I personally wouldnt change a thing. If you go up any more in the front, it will begin to look squatted. Let it ride for a while and enjoy it. If the front settles later, then add maybe an 3/4-1 inch, but it doesnt need it right now.

here's mine at 6 inches or so with 32's. Mine is a 2.5 with 4.10's though and I need better gearing.

Talk to your accountant about what would be better to write off at the end of the year as far as depreciation is concerned. A new one with a warranty might come out better on your end that way. I don't have any experience with them, but I do with the Promaster and Promaster City. The promaster gasoline version has a Chrysler minivan drivetrain, and the City has basically a Jeep Cherokee 4 cyl drivetrain. The dealer I worked for didnt sell many so I didnt get a ton of experience with them other than other vehicles with the same drivetrain, each of which had its own issues.

I did just over a year at a technical college in Nashville back in '91-92. Even at a tiny tech college I had vehicle issues. One guy said he saw a bug on the door of my carm and kicked it, caving in the door. That and I couldnt afford a reliable car so I just drove old VW Beetles which required constant upkeep. Later on I worked maintinance at a small private college in Michigan. I eventually moved into an apartment owned by the college just off campus, and even then I still had issues with stupid people and my cars. My Hyundai Accent got walked over, leaving dents in the hood and roof, and a footprint on my windsheild. I got luck with my Grand Wagoneer. Out of a line of 6 cars along a drive at the apartments, mine was the only one to NOT get its tires slashed, I think because I was nice to the guy who did it at some point in the past. I agree with finding a cheap beater after you get there. don't modify it in any way, just keep it stock, and if something happens, its no big deal. Like you said, you don't have to deal with rust in Nashville, so thats a plus for Longevity. Good luck.

As for transfer case shifter, youll need one that came from a vehicle with the same transfer case as yours, so that the linkages are the correct length. youll need the body side bracket as well to support the cross bar, don't forget that.