dasbulliwagen

If you do a direct swap of all the parts there should be little to no cost involved, other than replacing a few parts here and there just to be safe. But I don't see why you couldnt just swap everything over and then replace anything thats needed later on. The wire harnesses should be the same too, just make sure the axle gearing is the same if you don't plan on doing the rear axle swap, if its not, just swap the rear axle too!

If youre getting backfires through the TBI, it can not be an exhaust valve. It would have to be an intake valve if that is the problem at all. The exhaust valve has no direct run to get to the throttle body. If it is an intake valve, there could be a buildup of carbon on the backside of the valve causing the valve not to seat properly which could cause a backfire into the intake manifold. That problem if let go long enough can also burn a groove in the valve... for which the only fix is to remove the cylinder head and replace the valves, and seats. You can test for this by doing a cylinder leakdown test, which takes an air compressor and special tools, so if you want to do this you may need to take it somewhere. Let us know what you find or if youre just going to give up and swap! We won't hold it against you either way.

:rotf:

The fuel pump to tank Oring should have nothing to do with the pumping of fuel to the engine. I think you have other issues to contend with. Try replaceing the filter, do a pressure test to see if it is even getting fuel to the rail. I assume you have a 4.0, you should add your engine to your info. If youre not getting proper pressure, then pull the pump from the tank and check that all the connections there are good, and if needed replace the pump motor only. don't try to get a new assy form the parts stores as they will sell you one for a cherokee and tell you that it will work in a comanche.. it won't. No one makes new fuel pump assemblies for our trucks, but you can just replace the pump motor if needed. But check everything else first. Also check grounds... if you have a bad ground it may not let the pump get full power. Good luck!

Shouldnt it be possible to use your original headlight wiring harness and just plug it all in to the new lights? I would think that would be the easiest way to go. You might have to slpice on a couple of light sockets if they are different, but I would think that would be easier than trying to re pin the connectors not knowing what the wires are at that point. Good luck!

If the same type trans was also used in the 2.5s, there may be a place in the belhousing, but just not drilled out or tapped. I need to look into this myself to as my 2.8 donor trucks AX5 is slated to go in my 2.5. I hope it will work, or else Ill be looking for a new belhousing.

I don't think Ive ever seen those two words put together before. But I like it!

Take the intake, exhaust, and all accessories from your original 2.5 and swap them to the new 2.5 and install it and go. All the base parts should be the same... unless you want to convert to the MPI 2.5 in which case you would nee the entire engine wiring harnbess, computer, dash harness, guages etc in order to make it all work, and even then you would have to splice in the remainder of the original MJ harness to make all the lights and everything work. If you are just looking to get it running again, just swap the long block and go.

Ive got my eyes on a similar project. My former boss's parents have a 79 CJ that is totally unmolested, original owner, that I don't think has moved in over a year. The owners are getting old and the husband has physical problems that won't allow him to drive a stick very easilly, and the wife just won't drive it. And these people (meaning the wife) won't sell anyhting because they think everything is worth a million dollars. Example... they have a 1962 Ford Galaxie 2 dr sitting rotting away, also original owner and basically rust free. But it has been parked since 1983 and every part of it will need rebuilt. But they had some guy tell them once that it was worth $17,000 and now unless they get that $17,000 they will just let it rot till then. And its most recent death blow is that they pulled it out of the barn its been in for 25 years and parked it outside underneath an oak tree! Just drives me crazy. I would like to have the jeep and just keep it stock, but the Galaxie I wanted to buy and fix up to give to my dad. I hate to say it, but it will take one or both of them to die before anything will happen with these cars. And their oldest son, my old boss, I think would just sell everything if he had the chance. But sorry if I hijacked, I wish you the best of luck with this project and hopefully it won't happen to you like it happened to the others! Good luck!

Ive never seen a Chyco minivan that had serviceable inner tie rod ends. If that part is bad, us dealer techs have to replace the rack.

Hmmm, that rig is parked in the disabled spot :drool: Its parked in the handicapped spot because youd have to be retarded to build something like that! :nuts:

Have you tried directly inserting a wratchet into it, or a 3/8" extension? Try that first.

Where can I get a lighted steering wheel like yours? Is that for mood lighting? :yes:

We are in the process of doing our too, and from what I hear, one of the ones they had trouble killing... wouldnt quit, was the 1986 Wagoneer 2.8 V6. The thing just kept going! I guess the tolerances in that one was soo loose that all that liquid glass just passes by the bearings. Who knows?

This is as good a place as any for my 500th post! Thanks Pete! I am now officially an addict!

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 3:28 pm Pulled the front axle out of the donor truck to clean it and prep it to be painted prior to putting it into my 87. Scraped all the heavy built up gunk off of it and then pressure washed it. It is now ready for a quick brake clean bath and then some black satin rust control spray enamel. I need to clean the springs too and paint them while I have them out. I'm hoping that the 4wd front springs don't lift me in the front too much as they look like they have about one more full coil than the current 2wd ones. I guess if I have to Ill need to get some longer shackles for the back to level it if needed until I can spring for the full lift and SOA. Still need to get all the O-rings I need for the AC lines too so I can get that charged and working soon. Itll bet getting real warm here very soon! Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 10:10 am Vacuumed the AC system I just put in, Charged it only to find the compressor not getting power for the clutch. I now need to go throught the wiring for the ac and find where my problem lies. After I get all that working I can then start on my 4x4 conversion! Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 3:12 pm Took the 87 into work this morning to see if I could figure out the wiring for the AC. Thanks to the downloadable 1988 service manual PDF from one of our other esteemed members, I was able to find a better wiring harness diagram and found that I just needed to add a relay to it and have the unused pins from the dealer installed AC connector hooked to the relay, etc. etc. etc.... and viola! it works!!! Still need to add refrigerant oil to the system though, so no real tryout till next week....someone locked up the AC machine at work, and it has the oil injector I need to put the oil in. Next project... Install the 4:10 rear axle, then the front axle then the trans and transfer case. Maybe next weekend I can start on that! Posted: Sat May 02, 2009 11:38 am Drove my 2.5 on the highway today... forgot how decent it really did at speed. Its been probably a year or so since ive taken it on the highway, though the wife has taken it several times. I think the cold air tube helped a little at that speed. I did find a wheel vibration at 55 mph, so will have to re balance the wheels...still need to recharge the AC too. Posted: Sat May 09, 2009 2:18 pm Finnally got around to installing my 4:10 rear axle, bled the brakes, hooked everything up, tried to adjust the parking brake only to find I'm running out of adjustment and still don't have any. Looks like Ill have to swap the cables. I have yet to drive it because at this moment I'm recharging my AC to see if I can get it working any better. I was able to get my full original charge out of it so I don't think its leaking. Maybe I overcharged it, or it may need a new H block??? ..........have been messing with it right now....pressures arent right. I'm not sure whats going on with it...Il have to do some troubleshooting research....or maybe the HVAC housing is not closing off the heater core enough???? Time for a test drive! Posted: Wed May 20, 2009 6:41 am Installed my 4:10 rear axle, and found that the longbed parking brake cables will not adjust up to allow my parking brake to work. I will have to swap in the original ones to try to get it to work. Loaded the Buell in it to drop it off at the Harley dealer for a new rear tire, state inspection, recall and a full detail...I'm going to pick it up tonight. can't wait to see it all polished up.. my Buell that is! Ive been neglecting it lately, so Ill have to try to keep up with it this summer! can't wait to go for a ride! Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 3:06 pm I attempted to get my parking brake to work by adding sleeves to the main cable to take up for the longer rear axle cables that came with the 410 axle. It worked for a litlee while, but kept going loose after a few applications. I noticed that the cable where they go into the backing plates are collapsing on themselves...the outer sleeve that is. I guess its time for new cables. I also replaced my missing alternator bolt, put a new one in and then double nutted it. That should keep the alternator in place and the belt tight! Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 12:54 pm Cash for clunkers has allowed me to snag a few more parts for the old 87. I got a sway bar off of an XJ country. I got the rear bumper too to see if I could make it fit the comanche. I know its not a bolt on, but I like the look better than the step bumpers. I also took the trailer hitch off that XJ (XJ number 5 from our dealer that has been turned in for CFC). I also took the visors and clips, the rear overhead speaker bar. I also took a trailer hitch off of a ZJ cash for clunker turn in. I plan to see if I can make a trailer hitch between the two of them to fit my truck, at the same time as fabbing the cherokee bumper. This is all in addition to the Wagoneer front end including doors with power windows, locks and movable vent widows, chrome front bumper, radio, cig lighter, clock, seat belt ( to fix my broken one ), skid plates and overhead console. Ive got some work to do! I also bought a 2.5 longblock from the classifieds here for a future rebuild. Ive only been into the Comanches for two years now and now Ive got parts coming out my ears. History is repeating itself I guess... 10-15 years ago it was Volkswagens... everywhere! Theyre getting too expensive now, and working at a Jeep dealer I guess has its perks for my current infatuation! Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:46 am I'm in the process of making a fitted fan shround for the WJ electric fan I am installing in my 2.5 MJ. I'm using 2 seprate 2.8 V6 fan shrouds cut down and epoxied to the fan unit itself so it can mount to the original radiator mounting holes. I hope the 2 part epoxy holds up OK. I bought an adjustable temp fan controller, and plan on doing all this when I replace my leaky water pump. I'm curious to see how much of a difference it will make with no crank driven fan in there. Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 5:58 pm Went into work this morning just to get The MJ finished up so I could drive it back home. Its been sitting up at work for about two weeks now after the water pump went out again. So I figured I would take the initiative and convert to electric cooling fan while I was in there. Ive had a fan out of a WJ laying around for a while and it is about the size of a 2.5/2.8 radiator. I took the fan shroud from my 2.8 donor truck, and the fan shroud from a 2.8 XJ wagoneer and cut them up and epoxied peices of them around the fan to fit the radiator. This will allow me to reinstall the 2.5 fan and shroud later if needed without ruining them. I then wired it all to a fan controller. I had to make a spot in one of the heater hose lines to mount the temp sensor. It probably isnt in the best location right now, but it will work until I can figure something else out later on down the road. And during all this too, the battery went bad in my VW, so I pulled the battery out of the MJ, put it in the bug, which is being sold, and bought myslef a new Delco battery. Here is the fan I made up. Only the round center part is original to the fan. It has the right sides to two different 2.8 fan shrouds epoxied to it to make it fit over the radiator tightly, I then painted it all satin black. The temp sensor for the fan controller needed to be mounted somewhere, and the best spot I could see was in the heater bypass line to the intake manifold. I bought some brass plumbing fittings to mount the sensor in and cut the hose and clamped it in. The fan assembly mounted in place... it has at least a couple inches clearance between it and the water pump. Next was mounting the fan controller, and getting it wired up. It runs the fan by grounding it at the relay. You run the hot wire from the battery directly to the pos side of the fan, then the fan neg to the realy controller, a wire to the AC clutch power wire, a wire to ignition positve, and a ground. Plug in the sensor and it is done. And here it is all done and running! It seems to come on quick because of it being in the bypass hose, but I guess Id rather have it running than not. My next project will be installing the Wagoneer front end! And the the power window and lock doors from the same Wagoneer. What do you guys think about the project name "Comanche Limited"? As I plan to install the Wagoneer's "limited" badges during my build.

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 11:49 am I finally istalled the new wheel bearings I've had in my toolbox now for over a year, I changed the tranny oil, the rear diff oil, and scored a free set of front brake pads for it ( wish I would have had these when I was doing the wheel bearings ), and adjusted the rear brakes trying to get my parking brake to work better, although I did get more at the brake pedal, the P-brake still seems soft. Guess I need to look into adjusting the cable. And just bought an 86 MJ 2.8 4x4 5 speed LB for parts or whatever, been a good week. Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 3:52 pm Have been working on the donor truck. Pulled the front and rear diff covers to inspect the gears before the swap. They were suprisingly clean and show little wear. Pulled the dash to get the HVAC housing to change my 87 to air conditioning....had to clean out mouse nest from housing too and then cleaned and sprayed the whole thing with lysol, lubed the blower motor bearings and tested the blower resistor with an ohm meter, all seems good to go. The wife is bugging me to get the AC swap done first so that when I'm driving around with the baby, we both don't sweat our buttes off. Theres a set of black steel 17" rims here at work I think off of a Chrysler 300. They have a 5x4 1/2 bolt pattern, I'm curious to see how they would look on my MJ. We will see.... Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 8:25 am Pulled the rear axle out of the donor truck, cleaned it, painted it, installed the new stainless braided brake line, cleaned and inspected the rear brakes which look like new, and then temporarily put it back under the donor, SOA.... it looks cool like that, can't wait till I do it for real! Posted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 4:15 pm Pulled the dash on the 87, to swap in the HVAC housing. Found out that the HVAC housing has its own main harness connector, which connected to the dash harness in the 87 that already has all of those other wires in it! So hoping that the next step of adding the compressor and lines, I will also be able to find the wires apready there.... wish me luck! Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 3:37 pm Worked more on the AC, PS conversion this week. Found out that the brackets the junkyard sent werent exactly the ones needed for my model year so the alternator I had was wrong and the Ac compressor was wrong, so I did some digging around the shop, found that the alternator from the 86 fit in place, but had bad bearings, the wrong pulley, and the wrong electrical connector. Dug around the shop some more, found that the pulley from an alternator just removed fron an 89 XJ 4.0 was the right pulley and installed it to the 86 alt and checked everything for fit. Looked up the wiring harnesses for both year alternators and decided that if I cut the connector off of the 86 and soldered it on that it should work the same as the 87's 2 wire hookup. Then I went and bought a new alternator for an 86 to put in place for good. As for the compressor, I only needed about a quarter inch to get the comp lined up, so I started grinding down the mounting bracket to set it back where it needed to be, and then wallowed out the holes for the rear mount to move it...looks pretty good! The power steering resevior I ordered was wrong, and wanting to get this done so I can drive it, I asked if the parts dept had any reseviors from a 2004 Caravan... which they did because we replace them regularly. Removed my stock airbox to have room for the remote resevior and made a bracket to mount it to. Installed the gearbox, and lines/hoses, filled it with fluid and found that in order to keep it from sucking air, I had to fill it way over the fill line on the resevior. I just hope it don't overflow after it gets hot due to fluid expansion. Added a bottle of Lucas power steering stop leak to it for good measure ( that stuff is great if you have a pump starting to growl a little). To replace the airbox, I dug up a cold air intake I removed from a Mazda 3 a couple years ago... cut the tube to the length I needed, found that the rubber boot it came with fit perfectly over the original throttle body cover. Bent a bracket to support the airtube and made sure everything had clearance. Ive yet to go on an extended test drive, but it seems Ok for now. We will see this weeked when I have to drive out into the country to work as a volunteer to clean up an overgrown county cemetary. The rest of the AC lines and receiver dryer and charging are next. Wish me luck!

I don't know anything about this either. And I don't watch the news any more than I have to because of its horrible political slant or for the fact that its all just too depressing. Theres no sense living your life like that if you don't have to.

I too was thinking either valve guides or seals, and piston rings. Soetimes when heads are rebuilt, they don't install new guides, they just knurl tem to take up any slack. It is a half assed way of doing the job, and in my opinion a shoddy way of doing it. If thats the case it could cause more oil to make its way through the valve guide if the valve seals arent that great or are bad... maybe some came loose and worked their way up the stem and are no longer sealing. And if some piston rings broke it could cause the same oil usage problem. I know if it was me with all the power of a stroker, I might want to beat on it a little to show off or whatnot. That could cause rings that arent yet broke in to want to break. I agree more research with those who have experience with them is needed.

What did you do???? How can we not do what you did if you don't tell us....Just curious! :popcorn:

Didnt they do something like that in Gone in 60 seconds... went to the DMV asking for info on certain types of vehicles registered in the state... like freedom of information act stuff or something. I think thats how they found Eleanor. I just wish they kept Eleanor in her original movie state... A 1973 Mustang Mach 1. I guess the 73 just wasnt sexy enough for the new movie....sorry off topic. :shake:

I know you don't have the yota axle anymore, but if you flip the centersection, won't the axle then want to run in the reverse direction? Or were you talking about swapping the tubes side to side, leaving the center section, and knuckles upright, but with opposite tubes? I think the one they did on the Spike show was taking a rear end, flipping it over and making the axles and putting it all in the front so the reverse direction would work out OK. But you can't just flip an axle upside down and have it turn in the right direction. Sorry I had to get that off my chest.

HOLY SON OF A MOTHER!!! I WANT IT!!!!!! :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:

The power to these is a hot wire and a ground wire, thats all. Find a battery hot under in the fuse box, run a wire from it and another fuse to the seat, and tie in the ground and youre good to go.

Ive thought about keeping the wood panels, but I just can't do it. Though I wouldnt mind having another Grand Wagoneer... that was the most comfortable vehicle Ive ever owned.