dasbulliwagen

I have been working on fixing the boss's MJ. Put a new ballast resistor in it and it has never ran so good!, I also welded up the saw holes from when someone tried to steal the converter by cutting it off. Took it for a test drive and experienced the worst death wobble Ive ever seen. I will try later to balance the wheels and maybe throw a different track bar on it. It is an 88 Olympic Edition 4.0 4x4 SWB. Nice truck... just been neglected over the years by too many people having their hands in it and the boss not wanting to spend any money on it. Typical car salesman!

i LOVE the bolstered buckets... but i'm also a very thin guy at 6' 130lb. so maybe that's why... they just keep you so centered it's like a racing seat... i can't stand the flat backed seats in my volvo and... do you just post pictures to make us jealous or is it really to emphasize points? juuust wondering... :wavey: SOMEONE GET THAT MAN A SAMMICH!!!! :eek:

You paid way too much for that, but I know vehicle prices are different up north when it comes to good running trucks, even if its rusty. But even up north, I don't think that truck is worth more than $500. You have a lot of work ahead of you, and its not going to be easy. Good luck though, ans you know, if you have ANY questions big or small, you can come here to ask. Good Luck!

I would be willing to bet that there is no such thing in existence... at least not in your neck of the woods.

I paid $250 for mine and its 10 times nicer than that one!

Is the ballast resistor really needed? If I can jump it and get the engine to run would it be ok to leave it jumped, or does it really need to be there? This is on an 88 4.0 auto 4x4 Olympic edition.

Berretta 3032 Tomcat 32 Auto pocket gun, and a Mossberg 500 pump 8 shot with pistol grip.... as you can see, I'm not a hunter, but I love to enjoy the results of those who do!

It isn't the same. End of discussion. The Model 20 used in the MJ had one-piece axles. The FSJ's AMC20 also used 1 peice axles. And why would you buy an FSJ for axles if you didnt want to go full width? I myself think it would look really cool to have the full width axles under it. It won't be worth the money if you narrow the existing axles. Youd be better off selling what you got and buying something different that is the right width to begin with.

Yes, try the 2.5 pump first, the pulley is probably different in its backspacing than the 4.0, or you can get a pulley puller and pull the pulley forward the 1/4" you need, but just using the right pump would be easier.

You need to get that AMC 20 also... I would think you could turn that around fairly quickly and for a fair profit as well.... I would love to have it! But I aint goin to nevada to get it though.

There is some aftermarket support, but they are few and far between. Clifford performance make an intake and a header. Their intakes can be adapted to use a 4 bbl carb, 2 bbl carb, or their aftermarket fuel injection setup. A company called Accelerated motion makes a variety of cams for this motor. You can get roller rockers, port and polish the head, custome exhaust.... just depends on how much you want to spend. And if youd rather swap. buy this 4 cyl MJ now, and keep an eye out for a parts XJ with the trans you want and the 4.0 and swap everything over... maybe even late model one with the newer style front end. It all depends on what you want to do and what you are up for.

I'm getting ready to do this same swap. I looked up the wiring harness's and it looks like you run a power wire, and then run I think it was about 5 wires across to the pass side to tie everything together. Its been about a month since I looked it all up, but it looked entirely doable. Cut off the connector ends at the body side harness too when you get the doors, so you can splice into them on both sides and still have connectors if you need to remove the doors again later on. If youre half way decent at electrical work you shouldbe able to pull this off no problem. Good luck.

If you didnt refill the converter before reinstall, start the truck, let it run in neutral and keep rechecking the fluid level, and add if needed.

Get a new 02 sensor for it too. Mine was horrible when I got it, and I limped it around like that for a while, then put an 02 sensor in it just because, and it made a huge difference. Ive also done the cold air tube, removed the engine fan for an electric one, and re-geared to 4:10's and have noticed minor gains. Next would be a throttle body spacer, gut the cat, add a header, cam, change to 4bbl carb intake manifold, port and polish the cyl head, go to maximum overbore in the cylinders, add a turbo..... it all depends on how much you want to spend in time and money. There are a bunch of guys on here that will tell you to just swap in a 4.0, but to many of us that just isnt feasable, and it is more fun "tuning" on a 4 cylinder. But that will only get us so far before we start seeing diminishing gains. If the 4 is all you have to work with, by all means do it! Just remember though that it is still just a 4 cyl and you can only expect soo much.

Are you seeing fluid on the dipstick? If not keep adding 1 quart at a time till you do.... if thats the problem. All your electrical connections together? , Shift cable hooked up? Driveshafts in?

Wireless electricity is some crazy stuff man. Might want to get some scientists on that... There is such a thing as wireless electricity, but thats another subject.

here's my 86 parts truck and future project... rust free, 2.8, Ax5, NP207, 30/35 with 4:10's, bucket seats, red interior, PS, AC, tilt.

I read somwhere that one for a 4.0 will work... it was a Power Aid 4.0 spacer PN 310-510.... they said it will bolt right to the 2.5. and that the spacers work better on TBI setups than they do on port injection setups like the 4.0 has. If you get one and notice any difference let us know, I'm contemplating one for my 2.5 as well.

This truck probably has 4:56 gears. I'm not sure if it has a lockup converter or not, but if it does and it isnt locking, maybe that could be the issue.... also put in a new O2 sensor, that will help also. And maybe convert from engine fan to electric fan, cold air tube. I would think you should get at least 20MPG. And is your speedo right? maybe thee trans has been swapped and has the wrong speedo gear in it... just some stuff to check. Good luck!

Your grandfather drove a 2wd 4cyl MJ around the country with a slide in camper????? Now thats just crazy talk! But I like it! Does it still have the camper in it? Sounds like a great start to our addiction. Just let us know what you need and we are here to help!

I just looked at craigslist for london, searched jeeps, and came up with a ZJ, and a rubicon.... THATS IT! You'd think there would be more in a city of that size, but all we can tell you is to search for local clubs and organizations, or try a 4x4 shop and ask around and go from there. Good Luck, let us know what you find out!

Does he have that N1XJ flu or somethin? :dunce:

$250 is way too much for that. I might go $100 tops if there were parts I could use.

I stole this pic from ricksjeepster because of its nice side profile. I wanted to have a profile like that to put in paint to be able to draw out what I was thinking. Maybe use a CJ or Wrangler windsheild, modify the doors, make a canvas top for it... maybe even removable? You know, M715 style baby! Tell me what you think.

Here's hoping that this concept hits the production line one day. It's called the Hyanide, and happens to be a bike, a snowmobile and a 4 X 4 hybrid. The secret behind its unique versatility resides in its revolutionary new tread. The tank-like tread consists of 77 identical segments-each made from hard plastic covered with tire rubber -held together by Kevlar rope. Each segment flexes independently, making the tread significantly more limber than if its components were rigid. Not only does this setup help with traction, but it would allow the tank- cum-motorcycle to corner like no other vehicle. This theoretical vehicle would have a top speed of 85 mph, and could seat two. It would be powered by a 60hp 500cc liquid-cooled single-cylinder engine. It only exists as a one-fifth scale model right now, and there are no hard plans to produce it, yet. Seems some automotive industry bigwigs got really turned on by this at the Michelin Challenge Design, so who knows?