dasbulliwagen

Yes it is.

Price them out, even at the dealer, I bought mine from the dealer for 45 bucks a couple years ago.

The 2.5 doesnt have IAC, It has an idle control solenoid, it is on the left of the TB in the pic, is a rod with a pluger on the end that pushes the throttle arm to where it wants it.

Replace the O2 sensor, mine did something similar to this and once I replaced the o2 sensor, it cleared right up, and has yet to return. An o2 sensor is a sensor that creates voltage depending on the amount of o2 in the exhaust stream, the other 2 lines may just be for the heater if its a heated o2 sensor, you should have 12 volts on one of them, those 2 wires are the same color right? O2 sensors are very hard to test, so just get a new one, youll probably need one anyways.

I too love the Harleys, and would love to have a Heritage Softail or a dressed Roadking, but they have yet to be in my budget. I bought my Buell used 10 years ago while still in my twenties. I always loved the look of a sportbike, but also oved the sound of a Harley. Even at the point when I began looking for my first bike I knew nothing of Buell and that the combo I was dreaming of already existed. I saw in the sale ads mention of the Buells and then researched them and found the most gorgeous bike ever! The Silver Lightning S-1! I kept looking through the sale ads to no avail. One day i decided I wanted to pick out a helmet before I even bought a bike, and there in the showroom in the used area was my bike! I put the helmet I picked out on layaway, and left the store. I told my buddies at work about the bike and I guess they got tired of me crying about it and they told me to "JUST BUY IT!"... so I did! I think my mother cried when she found out I did that. At home as a kid/teen/college grad it wa always "Youll never have a bike as long as you live in this house" from my mom. Good thing I wasnt living at home! I think she got over it. And for those looking to buy a bike... I remember reading columnist Peter Egan writing about buying a bike. He said something to the effect of : You should buy a bike you love. One that you would be happy even if all you could do is sit there and stare at it in the corner, a bike so beautiful to you that just having it in your possesion will make you happy.... riding it is just nice benefit you get. I think this is especially more true to the northerners who can't ride for 6 mos of the year. All you can do is sit and stare at it... Ive been there when I lived in Michigan. I just wish Harley had more vision and kept at the sportbike market instead of letting it go like they did. I think their biggest problem selling the Buells was their dealer network who is used to huge profits on huge bikes and wanted nothing to do with competeing with Japan in the sportbike market on technology OR price. If they would have let the Buells be sold in smaller dealers alongside the Japs and Italians maybe they would have done better. Who knows! Sorry about the rant!

My beloved Buell Motorcycle Company is no more. I just read in cycle world magazine that Harley Davidson is shutting the doors to the Buell factory no longer to produce any more bikes. And Harley will be selling off its recent aqusition of Italian bike maker MV Augusta. They want to concentrate all their resources on the parent company with the economy the way it is. I thought it was hard to find parts for my bike right now, I can just imagine how its going to be in the near future. My 97 Buell Lightning S-1 only had just over 1000 bikes built that year. The production numbers slowly crept up through the years, but still were nothing compared to Harley. They just introduced a new engine last year too, the 1125. It was developed by Rotax and finnally put Buell in close competition with the Jap bikes. I wonder if Harley will do anything with this new motor now that they no longer have the Buell to put it in. I think too that the Buells are like our MJ's, they are rare, but they are not really collectable or worth that much. Buell you will be missed!

If the E van brake booster works for you, could you please put up a detailed thread maybe in the do it yourself section of how to do it, what years work and what mods need to be done with as many details as possible. It is always good to have as many options as possible when working on our trucks, and if this one is an easy swap, I think there are many people on here who would like to know. Thanks!

I agree with CW that the BFG's are a great tire with a really good reputation, but I think when it comes time for my next set, I'm seriously looking into Yokohama's Geolanders. They are always highly rated on tire rack, and I like the way they look. There are several styles to choose from, but they all have good ratings. Ive been running nothing but Yokos on my other vehicles too and will be buying another set next year as my Hyundai Tucson is getting due for tires again, They are a really good tire for the price.

Check to see if you have vac coming to the HVAC control head. There is a connector there that send vac to where its needed to change the blend doors, you may have a bad controller or it may not be hooked up properly. Let us know what you find! Good luck!

Thank you very much this is a big help. I'm pretty sure that I know the old owners of the truck I have a copy of the original title, and I'm the one that lives on Tinker AFB. Thank you again for the information, I'll be printing this out and putting in my papers. Heck yes :typing: :typing: Hey can you do this cool information look up for my MK also??? here's my VIN is you can, 8D703775. It was made in eary 08. :banana: In-Service Date: March 27, 2008 In-Service Odometer: 5 Miles Build Date: March 10, 2008, Hour: 16 Selling Dealer: 44339 - PATTERSON DODGE CHRYSLER JEEP Sales Type: 1 - DIRECT RETAIL City: WICHITA FALLS State/Province APAS Monotone Paint BANS 120 Amp Alternator BCPS 525 Amp Maintenance Free Battery BGES Brake Assist BNBS Electronic Stability Program BNSS Electronic Roll Mitigation BRFS Anti-Lock 4-Wheel-Disc Brakes CAXS Rear 60/40 Split Recline Seat CDHS Driver Height Adjuster Seat CDLS Manual Driver Lumbar Adjust CDWS Frt Pass Forward Fold Flat Seat CG1S Advanced Multistage Front Air Bags** CJ4S Supp. Side Curtain Frt/Rr Air Bags CKCS Floor Carpet CLXS Luxury Front Rear Floor Mats CL4S Ultrafloor Vinyl Load Floor Covering CMAS Heated Front Seats CSRS Passenger Assist Handles CUFS Full Length Floor Console CVKS Sliding Armrest CVNS Folding Flat Load Floor Storage GAMS Solar Control Glass GEGS Deep Tint Sunscreen Glass GFAS Rear Window Defroster GMLS Liftgate Door w/Fixed Glass GNKS Rear View Auto Dim Mirror GNUS Sliding SunVisors w/Mirrors GTNS Power Mirrors, Fold-Away GXRS Keyless Entry GXXS Sentry Key Theft Deterrent System HAAS Air Conditioning JAYS Instrument Cluster w/Tach JBDS Instrument Panel Satin Silver Bezel JCBS 120 MPH Primary Speedometer JHAS Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers JHBS Rear Window Wiper/Washer JJFS Single Low Note Horn JKPS 12V Auxiliary Power Outlet JKVS 115V Auxiliary Power Outlet JKYS Power Accessory Delay JPDS Power Windows, Driver One-Touch JPHS Speed Sensitive Power Locks LAHS Outside Temp Display in Odometer LAZS Vehicle Information Center LCDS Map/Dome Reading Lamps LCKS Front Dome Lamp LCRS Interior Removable/Rechargeable Lamp LMAS Halogen Headlamps LNJS Fog Lamps MCXS Body Color Fascias w/Bright Insert MHES Lower Bright Bodyside Molding MNAS Black Door Handles MPLS Black-Out Tape MPNS Body Color Liftgate Applique MSUS Limited Edition Badge MVDS 4X4 Badge MWES Side Roof Rails MWSS Jeep Badge NF6S 13.5 Gallon Fuel Tank NHMS Speed Control QGJS Jeep Green Met. Clear Coat RCDS 4 Speakers RDDS Fixed Long Mast Antenna REFS AM/FM Compact Disc Radio RSAS Sirius Satellite Radio SBPS Performance Steering SCCS Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel SDCS Touring Suspension SHCS Rear Stabilizer Bar SUAS Tilt Steering Column TBCS Compact Spare Tire TT1S P215/55R18 BSW AS Perf Tires WPWS 18X7.0 Aluminum Wheels XGDS Universal Garage Door Opener XGMS Tire Pressure Monitoring Display XGRS Rear Seat Heat Ducts XJGS Non Locking Fuel Filler Cap XSCS Bright Interior Accents X81S Instrument Panel Parts Module X84S Front Suspension Parts Module X85S Rear Suspension Parts Module X87S Power Train Parts Module X88S Tire Wheel Parts Module X89S Front Suspension Damper Parts Module X91S Rear Suspension Damper Parts Module YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications Z1AS GVW Rating - 4435# 1AAS U.S. Dealer Retail 163S Zone 63-Dallas 5IRS MK-Vehicle Family 5I4S Four Wheel Drive (4WD)/(4X4) 5I8S Left Hand Drive (LHD) 5RES 2008 Vehicle Specifications 5ZCS Price Class P 5ZRS Four Door (Compass) 594S Vehicle Order Tracking 6USS U.S. Specifications Label 644S Texas Ship to State Code 944S Texas Sold to State Code Optional Equipment Code Description Code Description Code Description *AL Leather Trimmed Bucket Seats - KA Pastel Pebble Beige DD7 5-Speed Manual T355 Transmission ED3 2.4L I4 DOHC 16V Dual VVT Engine LACP Illuminated Entry MDAP Frt License Plate Attachment Screws NAA Federal Emissions PGJ Jeep Green Met. Clear Coat RDZP Steering Wheel Mounted Audio Ctrls TZFP Firestone Brand Tires X9AP For More Info, Call 888-539-7474 X97P 1-Year Service Provided by SIRIUS YG6A 6.2 Additional Gallons of Gas ZFEP Spring - Left Front ZFTP Spring - Left Rear ZUEP Spring - Right Front ZUTP Spring - Right Rear 2DFA Customer Preferred Package 2DF 25F Customer Preferred Package 25F 4EA Sold Vehicle 4H4 Special Scheduling Condition VII

If you give just the last 8 or 9 of your vin, us Chrysler techs can try to get some info for you, you can even PM it if you feel ok about it. I think the later years of MJ Chrysler still has some info on, and is still accessable.

Originally sold in Oklahoma City, OK In service date was January 28, 1992 with 18 miles on the odometer Build Date: September 26, 1991, hour 09 Last known owner whos name I won't give you lived on Tinker AFB Options as copied below: APAS Monotone Paint BGAS Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes CUMS Mini Floor Console DMMS 3.07 Axle Ratio DRJS 175MM Rear Axle GACS Tinted Glass Windows GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass GEHS Fixed Door Vent Glass JAZS Analog Instrument Cluster JCAS 85 MPH Primary Speedometer KWRS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE K3ZS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE LAPS Shift Indicator Warning Lamp LBCS Glove Box Lamp LMAS Halogen Headlamps MB1S Black Front Bumper MFFS Black Grille MMCS Upper Door Frame Moldings MMGS Belt Moldings NAAS Federal Emissions NBKS EVAP Control System NF2S 18.5 Gallon Fuel Tank QE4S DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE SFAS Standard Duty Shock Absorbers SGAS Rear Shock Absorbers TBCS Compact Spare Tire TBMS Tire Carrier Winch XBSS Pickup Box YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications Z1AS GVW/Payload Rating 1AAS U.S. Dealer Retail 152S Zone 52-Kansas City Optional Equipment *C1 DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE - SA DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE ALAP SE Decor Group BARP 90 Amp Alternator BCDP 500 Amp Maintenance Free Battery CBAP Straight Back Bench Seat CKAP Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area DBBC All Manual Transmissions DDQ 5-Speed Manual Transmission ERH 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine GFD Rear Sliding Window GRZP Left Remote Mirror GSZP Right Remote Control Mirror GTZP Manual Remote Mirrors HAA Air Conditioning JHAP Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers JJAP Cigar Lighter KERP DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE MBJP Black Front Bumper MDA Front License Plate Bracket MHAP Black Windshield Moldings MMKP Body Color Drip Trough Molding PE4 DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles RAFP AM/FM Cassette Radio RCDP 4 Speakers SBAP Power Rack and Pinion Steering SCGP Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel SUA Tilt Steering Column TMWP P215/75R15 OWL All Terrain Tires TZAP Goodyear Brand Tires WJNP 15 Aluminum Wheels WLZC All Aluminum Wheels YGEA 5 Additional Gallons of Gas Z01P Rear Spring Group I Z58P Left Front Spring Group Viii Z78P Right Front Spring Group VIII 2TCA Customer Preferred Package 2TC 25C Customer Preferred Package 25C 3VNA Customer Preferred Discount 4EA Sold Vehicle 4M1P Retail to Bid Diversion Tracking 4UAA SCA Tissue North America LLC Some of the codes have been recycled and thus show something that they no longer stand for, like rack and pinion steering.

Is that your truck in your avatar?? We need some better pics of it... a convertable? We need details! I would love to see better pics of it and how it was done.!

Get another stud for the very front one too, because if it hasnt broke yet, it will later and youll have to do this all over again. Chrysler has a revised torque value for the end bolts because of this problem, so do your homework. Good luck! :thumbsup:

And let us know what the build date is on your truck... I see its a 92... some of us chrysler mechanics could tell you the exact day and hour it was made, and what options it originally came with and where it was originally sold. Post the last 9 digits of your VIN and I can get the info for you! Or you can PM them to me and Ill look it up!

Theres only one thing to say about diesel engine swaps into an MJ.... EXPENSIVE!!!! The cummins 6 cyl is way to big to fit into an MJ without EXTENSIVE cab and unibody modification. And the axles needed for what you want will need extensive modification to work under an MJ. If you have little to no experience and few tools, and by tools I mean welder, sheet metal brake, plasma cutter, air compressor and wide selection of air tools, then this is not a project for you. I know it would be soo cool to do, but if you are on a strict small budget I can tell you that this is not going to happen. There are people ou there that have done a cummins 4 cyl swap, but again, it is extremely hard to do and requires tons of fab work. And it is really hard to find a 4cyl cummins donor... and if you do find one running, expect to pay more that 5 grand just for the motor... USED! Unless you have a ton of resources like a family owned truck junkyard with an attached metal shop, I don't see this happening. I hate to burst your bubble, but you need to be realistic about this, maybe build up an early first gen dodge cummins single rear wheel 3/4 or 1 ton. Then you can keep the MJ nice for around town or easier wheelin. Whatever you decide to do, we wish you luck and will be here to help you any way we can. Good luck!

Sounds like grounds for being banned from the CC! :nuts:

HAHAHAHAHAHAAHAAAA :cheers:

We need more details about your truck, engine size, trans and all. But I think if you unplug it, then get a peice of wire stripped on both ends and jump across the connector and see if the RPMs change, I think under high pressure manuevers it is supposed to bump up the throttle a little, when pressure is high enough it closes the switch thus telling the engine to speed up. If its a 2.5 the idle solenoid does it, if its a 4.0 then the idle air control would take care of this. The switch tells the PCM if its open or closed and the PCM tell the idle solenoid ir AIC to give more RPM. Hope this helps. :thumbsup:

Saw this at an antique store downtown and thought that it was funky enough that it would be cool to fix up for my daughter. $20 and it was mine. Needs to be sandblasted, and painted, and have the front tire replaced, and the rear wheel bushings fixed, but it shouldnt be any problem. I should have it done in time for her to be big enough to be able to actually use it. here's some pics.

The new style Cherokee interior setup.... dash, steering column etc. New style cherokee electrics including 4.0 HO, keyless entry, power locks and windows, one peice glass doors, late style mirrors. All mostly bolt on, with some minor modifications.

Crank position sensor on the bellhousing, Oxygen sensor, clogged/blocked cat convertor or muffler....uuuhhhhhhhhhhh, water in the gas tank, bad fuel, ignition coil not giving good enough spark, bad engine ground.... stuff like that. Check it all! Good luck, let us know what you find!, welcome to the club!

How do you know its clogged? What position is the arm in? It should be level to the ground... the arm on the valve that is, and the rod should be straight up and down from the arm to the bracket on the axle housing. If your arm is hanging strait down to the ground, you will have little to no rear braking force. Let us know what you are dealing with, and what you want to do about it. Good luck and welcome to the club.

I recently did this on the boss's MJ...it was having brake troubles and I was trying to eliminate things one by one. Someone replaced the rear lines before me and put a tee fitting in there at one point, so I unhooked the lines to the height sense valve, tied both of the rear lines into the tee fitting going to the rear brakes so if the front valve kicked in it too would go to the rear brakes. During hard braking the rear wheels would lock up... even moderate hard braking. It is a stock 4.0 4x4 on 235's. It ended up needing new front calipers for the braking problem. but lockup is an issue, just be careful.

Youll need a front one too when you go to do the job, it will break when you try to pull it out. Chrysler had a TSB on them. I did the job recently on a wrangler, wasnt too bad.... I just went and found it... see below. Drill your old studs out, install the new ones, a new intake/exhaust gasket, set the manifold on, put the spacers on the stud before the washer and nut and tighten the spacer down into the manifold stud hole, and to the proper torque. Good luck. I need to do this same thing to mine, but it really isnt leaking, so I'm in no hurry. NO: 11-07-98 Rev. A SUBJECT: Outer Exhaust Manifold Studs Breaking DATE: Dec. 11, 1998 THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 11-07-98, DATED JUL. 31, 1998, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. ALL REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS** AND INCLUDE THE ADDITION OF MODEL YEARS, CLEAN POINTS, AND NEW PARTS. NOTE: THIS INFORMATION APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 2.5L ENGINE **(SALES CODE EPE)** BUILT PRIOR TO DEC. 7, 1998 (MDH 1207XX). SYMPTOM/CONDITION: The outer exhaust manifold studs may fatigue and break (Figure 1). DIAGNOSIS: Inspect either manifold stud for breakage. If breakage is noted, perform the Repair Procedure. PARTS REQUIRED: Qty Part No. Description **2 06036193AA Stud, Exhaust Manifold** **2 06036221AA Washer, Flat** **2 06036171AA Nut & Washer** 2 33003332 Spacer 1 53020112 Gasket, Intake REPAIR PROCEDURE: This bulletin involves replacing both outer mounting studs, clamps, and nuts **with new parts** and tightening the outer studs to a reduced torque of **20 Nm (180 in. lbs.)**. Remove the intake/exhaust manifold per service manual procedures to gain access to the broken stud(s). Remove the outer studs from the cylinder head. Use a stud removal tool if possible or drill the broken stud from the head. Install two new outer studs p/n 06036193AA into the cylinder block. **Torque the studs to 14 Nm (126 in. lbs.)**. Clean any carbon deposits or debris from the exhaust manifold. Reinstall the exhaust manifold. **Use only the new parts listed above to attach the outer ends (Figure 2).** Torque the bolts in the order and specification as listed in Figure 2. **NOTE: THE TORQUE SPECIFICATION FOR THE OUTER EXHAUST MANIFOLD STUDS HAVE BEEN REDUCED TO 20 NM (180 IN. LBS.)**. POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty. TIME ALLOWANCE: Labor Op. No. Time 09-45-01-92 2.0 Hrs. FAILURE CODE: Code Description P8 New Part