Pete M

looks like a peugeot. the peugeot splits into a left and right half and you can tell that from the row of bolts along the top and bottom along the spine.

and be sure it's not an AX-5 either. KNOW the differences before you go see it.

just make sure it is indeed an AX-15. 89 could have either transmission.

:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

I've had good success with the little recharge kits on my 00 dakota. there's a tiny leak somewhere, but it's been really cheap to keep topping it off. do you have any pressure in the system?

the warn VR-8k is my next winch. unless I win the lotto first. :D

yes but those are true stories. and there are lots of them. mine blew up while just tooling along in rush hour traffic. 2wd with monstrous 30" tires. some last, some don't. I might be inclined to leave one in a truck if it still worked ok, but I would NEVER spend a dime on a peugeot beyond new gear oil. I give the same advice to people who have a dana 35. invest your money into something that will last. :thumbsup:

I would start looking for that AX-15. :thumbsup: bad peugeots have been known to go bad again rather quickly after their rebuilds. :( the case is very weak and if it deforms even just a bit, it'll never be as-new again. car-part.com might be of help in junkyard searches. the site organizes parts by part number, so be sure to search for the various years of XJ and YJ and TJ. oh and try to get the t-case attached if yours is 4wd.

it's the chrome. makes it all slippery and such in the breeze. :yes:

there are some similar looking pads in my dakota and my best guess (at least in that truck) is that they prevent the wind from rushing up the a-pillar gap along the door seal (which might carry rain up with it too). just a guess.

um, isn't it... sold?

:(

the ground for the pump is behind the drivers side taillight.

have you cleaned up your grounds yet?

no idea if they are still available new, but any 87-01 XJ at a junkyard will have the parts you need. :thumbsup:

neat! any idea how old it is?

the line to your airbox is considered your current "vacuum" line. or do you mean the newer boxes have 3 lines?

the ballast resistor is bypassed by the computer at startup. if it's bad, the truck would start, then die after a couple seconds. the pump only gets fuel for a second or 2 if the key is turned to "run". once fuel pressure is reached, it shuts off. (and may not turn on at all if fuel pressure if already reached) the pump gets power for the entirety of time that the key is turned to "start". if you can disconnect the starter, you can have someone turn the key to "start" and check the pump then.

:clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

can you post a picture of your engine so we can see what you're talking about?

but that's a boring (although sadly accurate) response. a better one is a 2.8 CRD mated to a manual trans, an atlas, and portal axles. now that's some lowrange torque! :yes:

well, it's a bit less, um, exciting, but should fit the bill. :thumbsup:

someday I'd like to drop a battery in the ol' girl and see if she still runs...

I think you're looking at the warm air line that usually runs from the header to the air intake. used for channeling air off the headers at first startup. or at least, where it's supposed to be.

where exactly is the rust?