Pete M

:thumbsup: yeah, I'm gonna have to copy/paste that one onto my uncle's XJ :yes: (assuming I ever get to start that project).

what year is it? which engine?

is your pilot bearing still intact? I found that mine was obliterated when I took my 88 apart. only the outer race remained.

that's not all your problems. your post was filled with hyperlinks that you didn't put there. looks like your computer is infected too. :( I cleaned up what I could.

the ZJ harness may share the same engine connection points, but the rest of it is very different. The ZJ and XJ share very little. A complete XJ harness would give you the best chance of a smooth transition (though you'll still need to splice into the MJ taillight harness). Beyond that I'm of little help as I haven't done an HO swap yet myself. there's probably some good info in the DIY forum. :thumbsup:

I would skip both of those harnesses and find another XJ harness that isn't trashed. :thumbsup:

MJ bucket seats share the same floor bracket. :thumbsup:

sooooo, florida has no lift laws at all? :doh:

well, I stuck a fairly decent used one in it for now. it doesn't seem right to put you through a lot of hassle for a slightly better one. someday I hope to pimp it out with nos parts (though I doubt I'll ever even see an NOS flare) and saw a lonely taillight in your goodie pile. :D one of these days I'm going to wire it in to light up. :yes: and I still debate painting it 92 green. maybe if I ever find a door. by the way, check EVERY nook and cranny of that building if you can. if I remember right, this bedside was found jammed up in the rafters of a defunct dealership. :hmm:

just need a drivers side to go in my nos bedside hanging on the wall. :D or barring that (since I couldn't afford it anyway), I'll take a fuel filler door. :yes:

nice taillight by the way. :D

grab all you can, especially if it's free. doesn't really matter what it is. old NOS stuff can easily be resold on ebay.

this month's MJotM is dedicated to MJ trailers! you should post your photos in the thread :thumbsup:

excellent work! :bowdown:

x2. the Jeep 2.8 blocks are not worth the money. get yourself a 3.4L engine and invest your money into something that will last. :thumbsup: Chevy improved all sorts of internal components in the 3.1/3.4 variants.

we pride ourselves on a family friendly forum. :cheers: nothing that's talked about here has any need for vulgarity.

I only support keeping the internal slave if OEM parts are used (not everyone has a local shop that's willing to try doing the conversion). the aftermarket stuff is indeed a big crap shoot. :(

according to Chrysler: 10w-30 is for the AX-15 (because they stopped making gear oil that doesn't eat yellow metals) 75w-90 is for the Peugeot (because it doesn't have any yellow metals inside)

well it's been a decade now, but I think I got them at the auto parts store. make sure they are grade 5 or better. and don't forget that you'll want them a bit longer than the original bolt (both because they thread further into the hole than the original and that you'll need a bit of thread to stick out for the nut to thread on). once you have the trans out you can easily thread one of the originals back in to see how deep it goes, and then add that measurement plus the thickness of the bellhousing plus an inch for the nut.

or even better than bolts, replace them with studs. :thumbsup: install them into the engine after the trans is removed and then they help as guides for reinstalling the trans. :D

I'm guessing that would be because he'd like to keep his turbine rims. . :MJ 1: .

one of the offroad mags did 33x9.5s or 10.5s on a ZJ with a 3" lift a couple years back. I seem to remember they extended the bump stops a bit. it is only 1" more radius than you have now. how hard can it be? :D

now that's a big trailer!

nice! closest I've come is a leather wrapped steering wheel

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