Pete M

I stumbled on this in an old post , Pete posted this picture . Is this one of the trucks you are referring to ? I always wondered what the story behind that truck was :D

forgot to ask, do your hazards blink out back?

now THERE'S a museum piece. :drool:

neither name comes up. :( send me a message with your old email address or anything else you might remember. :thumbsup:

that body-to-tail connector is right behind the drivers side tire. corrosion inside that plug left me with brake lights on my 88. :(

I can't argue against that, but I also can't in good conscience tell someone that a rusty truck will make for a good father/son project (unless you enjoy sheetmetal work and the smell of pb blaster). Just the thought of fighting all those rusty bolts makes me queasy. :ack: been there... done that... never ever again (with the exception of my 88 and even she is testing my patience). for better or for worse, once you've worked on a rust free truck you won't go back. :D JCole, would you like me to find your old account and combine them?

apparently our site doesn't yet fully support the apple stuff so you'll need to paste the img tags manually for the time being. sorry. :(

nnnooooooooo-no-no-no-no. know what you want first. :thumbsup: if you expect this truck to ever look nice, then a solid, rust-free body is a top priority. body rot is a real bear on these trucks and the rocker/pans/bedsides (the most common rot) that are available in the aftermarket are of poor quality. :( don't voluntarily start with a headache when there are plenty of better ones out there. don't be afraid to look further south and out west. :yes: now, if this is just a trail beater, than you have more options (though I personally still would never settle for a rusty truck because I hate fighting that fight). what are the end goals for the truck? what is your skill set?

you are correct :thumbsup:

Dana and factory Ford gears would be my first picks. :thumbsup: did you read somewhere that the crosspin is needed?

totally stock truck? does the right match the left? pics would help.

Outlaw Star can you explain what this means? Old Tire Diameter X New Tire Diameter ÷ Current Gear Ratio = Effective Gear Ratio. Effective Gear Ratio is what your truck "acts" and feels like it has. The trick is to plug different available gear ratios into the Current Gear Ratio slot until the final math is as close to stock as possible. unless the stock ratio sucks. in which case I want more gear :D

huh, seems there's a picture half way up with you in the drivers seat. :doh: my brain sucks. but anywho, now I see that the seat is quite reclined and the headrest is nowhere near where your head will be. dilly of a pickle for sure.

add the dual brake booster mod to your list too. :thumbsup:

looks like enough headroom to me but maybe I just need to see someone in the seat to visualize it. :dunno:

a car trailer with a car on it? what size tires do you have?

I miss the white stuff. :( got a 1/4 inch yesterday here in georgia. whoopie-dang-doo.

I haven't heard from our member that was making club shirts in quite some time, so that option might be out for now. :(

still less than a bone stock 2.5/auto

your mpg should improve with the better ratio. :thumbsup:

did you swap in the correct speedo gear for the tires? your mpgs might be higher than you think.

he's got a 2.5L. they need a bit more gear than the 4.0 to make up for the missing torque. and even 4.88s won't be too much for highway and a 4banger. heck, the 2.5/Autos came with 4.56 gears and they have 27" tires from the factory. :D please don't sink that kind of money into a dana 35. at least get a late model XJ 8.25 or explorer 8.8 and invest your money into an axle that will last. :thumbsup:

what size tire? what are the plans for the truck?

what gears do you have now? size tire? can you pull a trans yourself? would you be doing the 4.0 swap yourself?

congrats! :clapping: still mighty impressive! if I had ever broken 200 I think I'd have had a heart attack. :ack: