Pete M

there's an off chance I may be able to help with that transaction in a couple months :D there's still a bunch of 'if's involved, but I may be driving through NE on my way back from CO and I may have a trailer. :D maybe. more details as events warrant.

:bowdown:

neat idea, but I can't help but notice that video didn't mention the top speed of a beetle and 4 adults pulling a trailer full of camping gear :rotf:

found another pic: the info attached says it's a 5th wheel with a converted horse trailer. also a ford big block.

the deepest 35 gears that were available from the factory were 4.56. you do know it's not quite as easy as just bolting in the parts, yes? it's a $500+ job if you pay someone to do it. and no, you shouldn't waste your money on a dana 35. leave it alone, save up, and invest your cash in an axle that will last. . :MJ 1: . In a lot of cases, it'll be cheaper.

and I'm not sure why...

um, congradts?

Not for combat, more like a base taxi. :thumbsup: I think you hit the nail on the head. In WWII, the Willys was a great platform for just about all facets, but fragile in the extreme. This JK concept wouldn't stand a ice cube's chance in h3ll against a 105MM IED....but would work in the far-to-the-rear roles. Id tend to agree with this- as a lightweight on base role, it would do well. Some parts crossover with civvy models isnt horrid either. I wonder if they would want to use the standard V6 or upgrade it to the 5.7? I'd vote for the overseas diesel

thanks to google, there is no shortage of scrap art :D

the taller they are, the more they exacerbate spring-wrap. the longer they are, the more they fight spring-wrap. spend wisely :D

refresh all the grounds? clean out the C101?

since the combat jobs are more and more going to armored rigs, a civilian-based ride makes sense for the other duties.

I'm sure that would help :thumbsup: I don't understand the whole nostalgia over carbs. I've got 2 at my house and they are insanely finicky things and I hate them with a passion usually reserved for french transmissions. what have you done so far to fix the idle issue? it could be as simple as a vacuum leak and slapping a carb on it won't necessarily fix that. Of course new things should work better than used things, but the Renix system is a fairly basic fuel injection and the fixes are usually simple too.

I got them in without these mods, but as soon as I found that they touched, I trimmed off (not hammered) the part of the arm that would have contacted the body and trimmed the shock mount where the arm would have made contact on the axle side. I was just looking for maximum droop. :D

don't know if it's the only hiccup, but one of the late-late model trannys have a completely different location for their CPS so you'll need to mill a spot in the bellhousing for the 88's. there's an auto-to-manual thread here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/48710-diy-projects-writeups-master-search-index/

driveshaft lengths are in the driveshaft thread. chances are slim that the yokes will directly swap between a 4.0 and a 2.5/2.8 truck. I believe those spline counts are different. http://comancheclub.com/topic/48710-diy-projects-writeups-master-search-index/

staying SUA maxes out at around 4.5" of lift so if you want anything more, you really only have one choice.

I did some extra clearancing on my 90.

a bone stock 2.5L/5speed comes with 4.10s and waaaay smaller than 31" tires. My dakota R/T came with a big v8 and 3.92 and 28" tires. heck, the 2.5L/auto Jeeps came with 4.56 gears and tiny tires. there is nothing wrong with 4.10s and 31s. nothing at all.

I love trucks :D the sky is the limit (until you reach a bridge of course) . :MJ 1: .

there's a thread in the DIY forum covering all the various driveshaft lengths :thumbsup:

welcome to the addiction! :waving:

you couldn't pay me to go back to a 3.07 gear. you could regear the 44, but is another ~600. you can buy a locker for the 20 for half that.

3.07s suck. 4.10s are awesome. :D