Pete M

that's in the link that Gene found in the DIY index :thumbsup: http://comancheclub.com/topic/40428-brake-bleeding/?p=407703

specifically chemically clean :thumbsup: are you bedlining the whole truck?

skim though the link in my sig. I thought we had a writeup on that.

there should be a thread with bolt sizes in the link in my sig. it doesn't have everything quite yet, but it has a lot. :D

be careful about shorter shackles. go too short and the leaf won't be able to flatten out and will bind. what about just throwing a couple bags of sand back there for a while?

as the others have said, down south or out west will give you a truck that isn't falling apart. buy it, build it, and then never ever let it touch salt. :thumbsup: our trucks tend to rot from the inside-out so by the time you see a problem with the rockers or frame or bedsides, it's waaaaaaay worse than it looks. :(

questions should really go in the tech forum so that more eyeballs will see it in a timely manner and then the info will be searchable for later use. :thumbsup: nice rig :bowdown:

I love the build thread :D have you done a DIY thread yet on the swap?

I have no doubt that just about everybody notices you :D most likely thinking "what was that?"

are you building something that just holds up lights or something to protect your noggin?

the rear bulbs are all double filament (except for the backup light of course). one filament is parking lights, one is for brake lights. as hippie said, you'll want to verify that all are the correct bulb. :thumbsup:

jealous! :bowdown:

touching a bar of soap to the belt while the engine is running is a good way to tame some types of squeaks :D but it might be a bearing going south. :(

yup, most any vehicle will run purely on the alternator. now, if it has a completely dead battery still installed, that's a whole 'nother issue. for example we were having an heck of a time getting my buddy's bronco to keep running and it turned out the battery had died mid-drive. once we separated it and got it jumped, we drove on the rest of the way home no problemo. :D

last sentance in #4: http://www.legislature.mi.gov/(S(bfr5oylm0pbut5ifgsav51fv))/mileg.aspx?page=GetObject&objectname=mcl-257-710c

yup, it's not the $50 fine I worry about, it's the $200,000 lawsuit after an accident. :( plus it's not just the law that's in play here. Some insurance companies don't allow modifications, period. it is wise to check ahead of time. :thumbsup:

a thing to keep in mind, in michigan at least, it's illegal to fab your own suspension components for street vehicles.

huh. well, I give them props for the cleaver idea, but I'd also be ok with a drone strike. :fs1:

only MJ axles will have perches in the exact right spot. but imo getting welding done is easier than getting gears setup. any muffler shop can do it. :thumbsup: plenty of examples of swaps in the DIY or project forums.

the block can be swapped with any MJ/XJ/wrangler 2.5L 84-2000 something. can't remember the actual cutoff. car-part.com can help with prices and searches. you might need to search for various years since the search engine only knows part numbers and I'm sure that changed over the years.

there's a chart in the DIY forum (see link in my sig) for stock driveshaft lengths. but I'm not sure how the newer t-case changes things. :dunno:

welcome to the addiction! :waving:

the XJ 8.25 and Explo 8.8 are the same strength as the MJ/XJ 44 and much easier to come by. :thumbsup: those are the big three when it comes to upgrades that will retain your wheel bolt pattern and width. 3.55 are a good upgrade for stockish size tires. after my dana 35 grenaded I went from 3.07s to 3.55s and it was definitely something you can feel in your butt. :D I had 30" tires at the time.

used gears don't always work without noise and they will need to be set up properly, not simply installed. pleeease don't spend money on a dana 35. invest in an axle that will last. :thumbsup: XJ 8.25s and even the explorer 8.8 can be had in 3.07 and LSD. try car-part.com and look for 98 version of each (the site searches by part number and 98 should cover all the appropriate years) (if it was me I'd be looking at ditching the 3.07s entirely for a better ratio, but I can understand not wanting that level of project)