Pete M

my connection looks like a standard one. no bleeder there.

don't discount the super duty axles just yet. more beef is better with 37s

Just found out the sticker dude is at KOH this week (lucky!), so next week we'll see what he can do.

oh my. it would seem they welded it up. that would explain the issues with turning.

running 37s on a tight budget can be... challenging. doubly so if you're relying on someone else's welding. But then again, I built mine with a drill, $10 grinder, and a $70 harbor fright stick welder that couldn't weld squat. I tacked things together and hauled them to a local guy to melt it together for good. have you thought about axles from a SuperDuty?

final version. a huge thanks to MoparBrown for lending his skills to this endeavor if there are no other ideas for improvement, I'll send this on to the sticker guy and see what he can do.

welcome to the club! rotors can be redrilled. I have said 9" under the back of my truck (with the matching 44 up front with the stock Ford radius arm suspension). It's nothing special except for the extra pinion bearing and that only matters if you're pushing super high horsepower. and no one can tell me it's invincible as I cracked my diff on a rock. If I had to do it again, I'd just have an Dana 30 up front and a Liberty 8.25 out back (super common, it's a couple inches wider than the stock MJ rear axles, and has disks). what tire and engine combo?

https://comancheclub.com/forum/40-member-projects-other-cool-stuff/

yeah, I've thought about folding ones or those elevated ones (with the bent hitch tube) and that dang spare tire is always in the way. fortunately this bracket dealie keeps the corners from dragging too much. also it's far more stable when I stand on it. I would love for some rounded corners though. those sharp edges really dig into my shins!

you'll need to start a build thread for that Jeep It's required by law or something.

the valve cover gasket is a very common leak and it'll drip down the back of the block and look like an RMS leak. I would check that first. to gain clearance for the oil pan removal you can jack up the front of the truck so the axle drops out of the way. you'll want all the clearance you can get, but it does eventually fit. there's a link to a window seal replacement writeup in the link in my sig. for a 4wheel swap, it's common practice to buy a whole XJ with the drivetrain you want. but this doesn't get you any better gearing. 4.0 + stick = 3.07s 4.0 + auto = 3.55s and they are the most common out there and are a decent upgrade for a stickshift Jeep with stockish tires. car-part.com can help with junkyard searches. be sure to search for multiple years, as any AX-15 can work, but the part numbers changed over the years and the website searches strictly by part number. same thing goes for front axles and t-cases and whatnot. first learn what can be made to work, and then go search for what's out there. rebuilt AX-15s are available out there. 94ish and up will have the external slave. also, WJ control arms are a good upgrade for a stockish Jeep. they are fully boxed, bent inward for tire clearance while turning, same length as MJ arms, better bushing design, and available new. they just need the metal sleeve inside the bushings trimmed flush with the rubber part. if you haven't already, read through the "most important tip" thread at the top of this forum.

indeed

welcome to the club! you should start a build thread on it! (more or less just copy what you have here)

actually, we now host your pictures here on CC. it came out of the photobucket debacle. one of our members was kind enough to write some code that went through our whole database and saved every pic to our own space on a server. no more reliance on the big hosting companies to keep our info safe! new pics can simply be dragged off the desktop into your text box.

oh man, that would be sweet! does anything scream 80s quite like some window louvers?

a long time indeed! how's the family? how's the truck?

they come with a place for a cabin filter... but the factory doesn't include one? talk about cheap! does the "high end" Focus at least get one?

lookin' sharp there Bo!

wow, they just didn't care at all about matching body lines. it looks... broken.

a body shop can get most of that out or you can leave it. chicks dig scars

not all. off the top of my head, there are members in Finland, Germany, Australia, Lebanon, and others on your half of the globe.

welcome to the club! be sure to star ta build thread : https://comancheclub.com/forum/8-member-projects-your-comanches/

everything I've read says the dies are key. quality is worth it.