Pete M

indeed! that's some good stuff right there

most of the hazy ones can become shiny again with a bit of work.

I'd slap a couple hose clamps on that where the last one failed to hopefully save you another trip.

we FINALLY got a couple nice days in north georgia (been raining for what... 3 weeks now? I lost track) and now I'm driving north to MI just in time for some single digit baloney. damn.

it's not necessarily the rubber, but the weak pivot hole that wollows out and doesn't allow you to pull it fully shut. sometimes you can shove a penny in there to help out, but even that didn't work with my drivers side. eventually swapped it for a solid.

someone recently posted up a plan for putting the full windows into the old doors. drawing a blank though on how long ago. hopefully someone will remember better than me. tow mirrors come from the factory with a special brace inside the door. 97+ mirrors are bigger than the old ones and bolt right in. be careful with the wing windows. they like to leak air and water. be very picky about which you buy and install.

the bench looks to be in ok shape, if I can find a way to get to WV I'd love to take it off your hands

there's not really anything to remove from the vacuum harness. each thing has a purpose. I guess you can delete the EGR. although it's required if you have any sort of visual emissions inspections.

longed and shortbed MJs use the same leafs. (2wd and 4wd are 1" different in height)

just to clarify, your tech Qs should go in the tech forum so more eyeballs will see them.

lucky dog! you got a bench with headrests! welcome to the addiction I would start with all of Cruiser's tips (link in my sig) and with this thread:

improved running over... what? the brand new 4-holes they were running? or the 30 year old 1-holes they were running?

skim through the Epic tech threads. I'd wager that a few of them are running the big flares.

stop. like, as soon as you can. our trucks rot from the inside-out. washing the exterior does nothing to prevent it from dying from the inside (inside the frame, inside the rockers, inside the doors, inside the bed, etc). if you want your grandpa's truck to last, you need to find another sacrificial driver for winter and park the truck til spring. I'm not kidding. my 86 was rust free when it came to me in 1999 and saw just a few michigan winters and that was enough to cause rust issues everywhere. I hate that I killed it out of ignorance but the ComancheClub was just an infant and the knowledge just wasn't out there yet.

check for vacuum leaks. including loose bolts holding the intake to the head.

I've gotten in the habit of adding hose clamps to hoses like that as an added safety measure.

just 8 more posts and it'll open up. location is key since they are huge.

did it split where a barb fitting went in?

they ripped out the FI for a carb? people are weird.

save everything associated with the fuel system. from pump assembly to fuel injector, it's all becoming harder to find for the 2.5L folks.

I'd drive up to see it again. "oh, you're making a new pickup? never heard of it. now where's that little 30 year old impractical concept truck?"

a beautiful rig! you're not driving it in the salt are you?

whatever you do, do NOT throw away anything from the MJ. the 2.5 specific parts (like the throttle body, injector, etc) have become harder to find.

just got this pic from our supplier. I'm driving north in a couple days and so he's mailing them to Michigan to meet me. I'll start a brand new thread for taking orders after I can inspect them up close.