Pete M

how much of a project are you looking for? Is the 88 a stick or auto? in the end do you want a stick or an auto?

the resistor isn't used until the engine has already fired up. the fuel pump gets full power for the first couple seconds with a direct wire, then the computer switches over to the circuit with the resistor.

I had my 2wd shaft cut down.

My head hurts just thinking about moving the fleet every 24 hrs. :ack: thank goodness I have my own personal parking lot. :D

Depends on how they are designed. some hitches say they are bed-dependent, others do not. :dunno: A search through the tech forum might bring up some brands to hunt down.

Those should fit the 3.4 that you'll be installing in a few months. :D

Hey look, it's my next wheeler. :D

MJs only came with one ebrake assembly. foot pedal over on the left. LBs and SBs may have different lengths of cable under the bed though.

3 pioneers so far; all buckets, 1 with full gauges, 2 with almost full gauges, all with sliders. :dunno: that's Jeep for ya. :D

Very nice. :cheers: Just an FYI, primer is not paint. if you want your roof color to last, you'll want to hit it with a paint so that it's sealed against the elements. primer doesn't seal. :thumbsup:

I would install new joints long before I lowered my trans crossmember. :thumbsup:

"bump": internet slang for bumping a topic back up to the top of the forum. :typing:

plus your current u-joints are the smaller 260 variety. upgrading to late model axle shafts will get rid of the CAD as well as get you a strength upgrade to 297/760 joints. :thumbsup:

bump for ya

I never seem to have any trouble finding MJ bucket seats. :dunno:

If costs are a concern, go with 2". 2 is the limit before you need to start replacing parts (shocks, brake lines, etc). viewtopic.php?f=3&t=23315

it's been a while since I've looked at it (and it's possible mine might be different), but shouldn't that allen screw be on the bottom of the unit? :hmm:

if the rear U-joints are still the originals, I'd start there. U-joints don't take well to changes in their operating angles. :(

holy crap that's a lot of work. :ack: I think I'd rather sell it as-is and go buy a 4.0 TJ to replace it.

or, you could sell that rarity to a LB owner and keep on the hunt for SB version. I'm just sayin'. Once you start slicin' and dicin', it's not a stock MJ unit anymore. :dunno: you might as well start with an aftermarket one.

patience grasshoppa. :D it may seem like it, but we're not actually all here 24/7. :typing: Check your front turn signal bulb sockets. they are known to cause issues when they corrode internally. the pass window has me scratching my head. never heard of that one. might be that your crank mechanism is toast. be careful pulling the door panel, as the little plastic christmas trees like to rip out of the panel before they pull out of the door. :( And please review rule number 2 viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1239 :cheers:

:drool: be sure to yank up the carpet to see if it's all as clean as the outside. Nice truck. :thumbsup:

I dropped the pan 5 times before the RMS in my 88 was cured. make sure you're adding sealant in the right spots on the oil pan and that the sealant has time to cure before you fire up the truck.

nice. :D

I agree. :D too bad it'll have one too many zeros on the price tag than I can afford. :(