Pete M

My favorite knife ever is the ol' Gerber Gator. :bowdown: Been making it for almost 20 years now, almost unchanged. gotta love that rubber grip. :D Still have the one I bought in '93 and I've abused the crap outta it. Even split wood with it one camping trip by using it as a wedge and wailing on it with another log. second favorite (and my daily carry): the Kershaw Leek:

If you can foot the cost, the full replacement metric ton packs would be awesome. :D Other people that have installed them have reported 2-3" of lift.

Our trucks tend to sit lower in the front, so typically they need less rear lift to make for a level truck. Where does the front rub? stock rims or other rims?

They are fighting to get back out. :shake: I hate rust. I painted it last year. Still thinking about doing a camo job on it. There's no way to touch up the "paint" I used with more of the same, so I figure I can just blend all the trouble spots into the camo. :yes:

decent pics for a phone. :thumbsup: I had a Chinook fly almost over my house today. Don't think he could have been much lower. It was sweet. :clapping: Couldn't get a camera in time though. :(

how old are the hoses? got an E-fan? does it work? I wired mine to come on with a switch so I could run it non-stop. You're going to be driving through some intense heat. Bring extra water. At least 5 gallons. And make sure you have a way of charging your cell phone in the truck. And the most important thing... gather up emergency numbers along your path. :thumbsup:

totally up to you. :cheers: If you go for it, plan ahead and be prepared for the typical problems. put extra care into the cooling system. Now is a great time to flush if the fluid is old, and to replace old hoses and maybe the pressure bottle. Do you have metric wrenches and have a torx set?

leave 'em or yank 'em, that's your call. just be sure to plug any exposed ends so that you don't have a vacuum leak. :thumbsup:

the sand draggin' looks like a blast.

yup, you should see a power improvement, especially over 20 year old injectors. :thumbsup:

update: everything is now moved, even the canoe. still waiting on a new reply from the city (asking again for specification about the exact problems he apparently sees) before I decide my next course of action...

change in date. Date(s) of Maintenance: Saturday, May 29 - Sunday, May 30 Time Window of Maintenance: 10:30PM - 4:30AM PDT (UTC -7) Expected Downtime: 90 - 150 Minutes

yeah, but in the end he can have a much stronger 4wd. :D Peugeots suck. :fs1: stock gearing sucks. :fs1:

you may have plenty of power now, but it'll all go away if you bump to 35" tires without re-gearing the axles. Is that in your budget?

ebay

Those are the easy parts, the real question is What do I do about the cooling? that would be the hard part. there are guys that have put what they thought were all the right parts in and still had issues. :(

I've seen rust free beds in Michigan for 200.

there are no known plastic aftermarket housings out there for an MJ.

3 inches is the border. Personally, i would not go above 2" without LCAs. lifting without longer lowers changes your caster and can lead to wandering on the road or worse, death wobble. all depends on the truck and the condition of the components. 3" is also the generally accepted max for the front brake lines. Gently tweaking the hard line up front can give a bit more room (if the line doesn't crack), otherwise YJ front lines are longer and bolt right in.

Well? take it out of the box for a photo! :D

I threw the flares on and hit them with some paint, just to see what it looks like. They are a bit higher than stock. I've thought about making them removable, but I'm thinking more about just adding more screws and considering them sacrificial instead.

you will see "kits" all over the place that are missing components. Drives me nuts. :headpop: 3" is when you should start doing something about the lines.

Go south. Out of curiosity, why the '90 cutoff date?

Go south. the further the better. :thumbsup: Down there you can get a rot-free truck that may or may not run for 600 or less. :yes: Don't start with a northern truck is you intend to restore. the rust will never go away completely. Oh, and the 4wd swap is pretty much bolt in. Don't limit yourself by skipping over solid 2wds. :thumbsup: Unless of course you're intending to let this truck touch ice and snow. In that case, just use a northern truck since it'll rot out from under you either way. My 86 was completely rust free when I bought it. a couple winters cured that for me. :(

Any company that sells a 5" lift with no control arms and calls it a "kit" gives me pause...